Briansdime Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 I'll have to try that but when I had the lower pulley off and the cover off I seen the key there and I tryed to move the sprocket that drives the oil pump and timing and it was solid Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Lock the cam sprocket with something so it can't turn. Try rotating the front pulley by hand again. When everything else is discounted, what ever is left must be it. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 When everything else is discounted, what ever is left must be it. A slight variant of "Occam's Razor". Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 I had the matchbox on just to see if it worked after I took the front cover off and readjusted the timing no spark. Same with the points dizzy have spark at the points just non at the plug. Also I do have spark at the coil. As for the gear that the dizzy runs off the crank I checked that and all looks good. I know I'm missing something. The points dizzy is off a 74+ 620, the guy that had it before me said it ran but a year ago so I don't know why after new plugs cap rotor it's not getting spark to the plugs. I've checked on both dizzy the gap and alignment to witch the spark is hit the cylinder and that's when I found that the timing was off a tooth judging by the slack in the chain. So you have spark at end of coil wire ,, but if you plug it into cap ( like normal) ,, no spark at the plugs?? Have you checked that little button on the inside of the cap, in the center. To make sure it is contacting the rotor ? I have seen those break off or fall out quite often. ___________________ If you have a few bucks there's a guy in Puyallup that can probably get you back on the road fast ,, but he charges a bit. Certainly nowhere near a real shop but charges none the less. He is pumpkn210 on here http://community.ratsun.net/user/164-pumpkn210/ Slick Mcfavorate on Facebook Ratsun.net ,, For a few bucks he will come to you, give him a buzz he will set you right lickity split. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 A slight variant of "Occam's Razor". I was thinking Sherlock Holmes. Occams Razor, (or the Law of Parsimony) is... the simplest answer is likely the best. Quote Link to comment
Briansdime Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 So I figured out why I was not getting spark now I found a new prob. My rotor is jumping time found out my oil pump gear (shaft) is to small and not setting in the groove on the worm gear on the crank. Is there a different shaft the has a bigger gear? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 The spindles are all the same except for length. If you didn't change it, then it's in wrong or the dizzy is. Quote Link to comment
Briansdime Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Well I don't know what was in there but I found another gear and it had a larger gear than the one in the motor when I got it. Swapped it out and she fired right up, now I have the one more question the block is a l16 the head is a A87 peanut head I think that's what it's called, and I have the cam gear set on 1. My question, is there a recommendation on where to set the timing or is factory good enough. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 The numbers are there to compensate for chain slack. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 L16s were set on #1 at the factory. But the real test is to set TDC and check for chain stretch if it has it. Too much slack and the #2 hole can be used to bring the cam timing back in line. Quote Link to comment
Briansdime Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Aw ok it has a new chain and tensioner, set it on #1 now just have to put a light on it I'm guessing 4* advanced Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Cam and ignition timing are not related. Adjusting the cam timing in no way alters the ignition timing. That said the ignition timing for the L16 is 12 degrees before TDC. If you have high compression less timing is needed. Quote Link to comment
Briansdime Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Ok thank you can't wait to get her on the road I've ran only stock motors never with su and a87 head like this one. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 ... now I have the one more question the block is a l16 the head is a A87 peanut head I think that's what it's called, and I have the cam gear set on 1. My question, is there a recommendation on where to set the timing or is factory good enough. The stock 210 head has a compression of 8.58. All other heads have a larger combustiion chamber which will drop the compression somewhat. Closed (peanut) chamber head would give 8.21 Open chamber head would give 6.72 Very generally, a lower compression takes longer to burn so you start the burn sooner by advancing the timing. Twelve degrees is going to work fine. Quote Link to comment
Briansdime Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Sweet thanks for the advise and all your guys help Quote Link to comment
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