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clogged fuel filter replaced but still no start. 82 sd22 720kc diesel.


TrouseLife

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So every time I think I've got my head wrapped around this truck I find out how little I know.

 

I've been getting my 720 ready for a roadtrip for the past few weeks. Was planning to leave on Friday and have been living out of the truck for a few days now. As I drove into town this morning I could feel the truck begin to lag. Everything about it said it's time to replace the fuel filter. As I based the top of the hill, the truck died. As in ran out of power and sounded cooked died. Put in the new filter full of clean fuel and cannot seem to get the IP to prime. I have the in-line style IP with the manual priming pump. The manual pump head doesn't move but had worked in the past; it feels fully primed.

 

Any suggestions to help get me back to life on the road?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

P.s. updates on the camper: s780.photobucket.com/user/trouselife/library

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The primer plunger is suppose to screw down into the locked position when running, you unscrew it by turning it counter clockwise until it releases, then pump it till your done priming it, then you push it all the way down and turn it clockwise to lock it again.

If when you pump and feel no resistance, then there is no fuel being moved.

What kind of pre-filter do you have, did the guts in it get sucked out and then get trapped in the lift pump?

When my pre-filter gets clogged, the engine starts missing and I lose power, I have never had it just die abruptly.

 

You can run it with the choke cable, but if it doesn't move far enough forward, then the fuel will be restricted, and it could possibly not move far enough forward to let the truck run.

Did you try unplugging the injection pump controller and then plugging it back in while the power/key is on?

Did you re-time the injection pump, I ask because the IP controller arm is a tight fit, if the injection pump is re-timed, the arm has to be adjusted accordingly.

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Wayno, at this point we might as well cut out the middleman that is the forum and just have you along for my roadtrip. Finally got the engine up and running today... truly one of the more difficult fuel systems to bleed. Still trying to figure out the altitude setting, but I feel much more road worthy now. Also managed to fix a small fuel leak I've had at the IP for a while.

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Wayno, at this point we might as well cut out the middleman that is the forum and just have you along for my roadtrip. Finally got the engine up and running today... truly one of the more difficult fuel systems to bleed. Still trying to figure out the altitude setting, but I feel much more road worthy now. Also managed to fix a small fuel leak I've had at the IP for a while.

:lol:

 

I have noticed that if air gets in the line that goes to the front of the IP from the center banjo fitting of the fuel filter, it's a bitch to get started, I now open all the banjo fittings and pump the primer till I get fuel to come out.

It's hard to remember all these little tricks, and to tell members like you when you need to know them, so far I have always been able to get my truck started sitting on the side of the freeway before the battery went dead, although the last time was real close, I actually called for a tow, and then called and cancelled it when it actually started and continued to run, the battery was basically dead, but if I let it set a few minutes, it would turn over a few times again.

 

Have fun on your road trip!  :thumbup:

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When the filter clogs, it can go pretty quickly. I had this happen recently a few hundred miles from home. I got the spare filter out of the box, filled it with diesel from the spare canister (fuel gauge doesn't work), screwed it on and started it up. It missed every now and then for a few miles, but I didn't need to prime it. It all took only a few minutes. When your pump controller goes, you can disconnect the arm to the injector. It will then be in the default Run position. You can turn it off by just pushing down on the lever for a couple of seconds. Bypassing the controller in general has some unwanted consequences. A bad connection in the fusible link can cause it to do weird things too. The modules can be repaired sometimes if you're good with a soldering iron.

So where are you getting filters? I went to NAPA recently for a replacement spare to keep in the truck. They said the part number changed from 3224 to something else, and they can't figure out what it is.

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It's hard to remember all these little tricks, and to tell members like you when you need to know them, so far I have always been able to get my truck started sitting on the side of the freeway before the battery went dead, although the last time was real close, I actually called for a tow, and then called and cancelled it when it actually started and continued to run, the battery was basically dead, but if I let it set a few minutes, it would turn over a few times again.

 

 

Haha! That exact thing happened while my wife was out in the middle of nowhere between Tucson and Phoenix looking for a bird that had been spotted out there. I ended up starting the truck off of the scooter that I rode out there, and now we both know better how to change a filter. The towing company still hadn't found a truck to go out there yet and had called back. While my wife was on the phone with them, the truck started.

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I use pre-filters on all my diesel engines, I rarely have to change the main fuel filter, but I am always changing the little pre-filters.

I buy my fuel filters from NAPA, I don't know the number, I just tell them I need a fuel filter for a 1981/82 Datsun 720 with a SD22 engine.

When the filter clogs, it can go pretty quickly. I had this happen recently a few hundred miles from home. I got the spare filter out of the box, filled it with diesel from the spare canister (fuel gauge doesn't work), screwed it on and started it up. It missed every now and then for a few miles, but I didn't need to prime it. It all took only a few minutes. When your pump controller goes, you can disconnect the arm to the injector. It will then be in the default Run position. You can turn it off by just pushing down on the lever for a couple of seconds. Bypassing the controller in general has some unwanted consequences. A bad connection in the fusible link can cause it to do weird things too. The modules can be repaired sometimes if you're good with a soldering iron.

So where are you getting filters? I went to NAPA recently for a replacement spare to keep in the truck. They said the part number changed from 3224 to something else, and they can't figure out what it is.

Every time someone comes over to my house saying the engine won't turn off anymore, all I have had to do so far is unplug and plug back in the plug going to the IP controller while the engine is running, I don't know why, but it seems to reset itself.

When I see any of the 3 diesel electronic devises(glow plug timer/DPC module/IP controller) on ebay, at the wrecking yards, or any where else for that matter, I always buy them, and I get good deals a lot, I might have to pay as high as $15.00 sometimes, but it's worth it to have them for extras, I always have extra starters, alternators, and the 3 electronic devises on hand in case I need them, I think that the hardest one to find in good condition is the IP controller, I have a couple of them that squeal(they are bad), I have yet to buy a bad black box(DPC module), and glow plug timers are just hard to find, but I have never even heard of a bad one of them.

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