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b310 suspension upgrade


floyd17

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Well covered. 

 

All spoons are in the dishwasher. 

 

 

 

 

A reason most use the ZX struts is that they bolt in and have better brakes. 

Buy the time you spend all your wad on coilovers you could have had a set of ZX struts installed and you'll still be left with shitty brakes. 

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Well covered. 

 

All spoons are in the dishwasher. 

 

 

 

 

A reason most use the ZX struts is that they bolt in and have better brakes. 

Buy the time you spend all your wad on coilovers you could have had a set of ZX struts installed and you'll still be left with shitty brakes. 

the thing stops on a dime, as is. im aware that the zx struts have better brakes. is there a way to weld on the mounting bracket for a 280zx strut, so that you can replace it with a new strut, and aftermarket high performance 280zx strut inserts, lowering springs, etc.

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These will fit your B310 fronts, https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/front-weld-coilover-kit-datsun-510

 

And you can use them if you ever swap over to 280zx struts by buying a second pair of these https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/weld-perches-coilovers-2-od-strut-casings

 

or by using 2" ID 2-bolt shaft collars to hold the sleeves in place instead of welding.

 

you will need to retain your 210 top hat or buy adjustable camber plates.

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the thing stops on a dime, as is. im aware that the zx struts have better brakes. is there a way to weld on the mounting bracket for a 280zx strut, so that you can replace it with a new strut, and aftermarket high performance 280zx strut inserts, lowering springs, etc.

 

I'm not entirely sure what you mean when you say "is there a way to weld on the mounting bracket for a 280zx strut"  the lower part of the strut bolts to your steering arms, and the upper part of the strut assembly is bolted to the tophat and to the car. The only welding you may need to do is if you decide to shorten the strut tube, or weld on a spring perch (if you dont want to use shaft collars)

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I'm not entirely sure what you mean when you say "is there a way to weld on the mounting bracket for a 280zx strut"  the lower part of the strut bolts to your steering arms, and the upper part of the strut assembly is bolted to the tophat and to the car. The only welding you may need to do is if you decide to shorten the strut tube, or weld on a spring perch (if you dont want to use shaft collars)

i was under the impression that you couldnt buy a new 280zx strut assembly and throw it in the car. you have to get old ones. i may be sorely confused. im still trying to learn how suspension works and what all the different parts are, so im just asking blindly until something clicks.

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and thanks for the links. myself nor my dad trust our welding enough to do these welds. so it probly wouldnt be hard to have them welded somewhere. my best friend's dad builds bikes from scratch and is a licensed welder.. he may be willing to do a favor..

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No welding needed when using 2" split collars. 

 

 

You can't buy the strut assemblies new. Just the cartridges. 

 

 

 

 

Every thread you see about using the ZX struts to lower/upgrade your rig applies. 

Whether it's a 510, 610, B210, or your 210. 

 

Everything needed to do is the same for all. Just measured differently. 

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No welding needed when using 2" split collars. 

 

 

You can't buy the strut assemblies new. Just the cartridges. 

 

 

 

 

Every thread you see about using the ZX struts to lower/upgrade your rig applies. 

Whether it's a 510, 610, B210, or your 210. 

 

Everything needed to do is the same for all. Just measured differently. 

ok. so in theory, i could go to a yard, grab the strut assemblies (with brakes and all.) go to a race shop, or website, grab some high performance strut inserts for it, and slap it on the car, with all the correct modifications for the 210? im looking to put 14/7 diamond race steelies on it with very mild negative camber, i also want to lower the car, with about an inch of clearance between the tire and the fender. (thinking toyo tr1 195-45-14 tires on it) and im willing to do this the RIGHT way. not the punk ass cheater way.

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195/45R14, ay?  That sound's expensive. 

 

 

Just putting the struts on will lower the car. Go from there then concern yourself with offset and sizing. 

okay. and yeah. any other low profile size that may be less expensive? just trying to do it right the first time. this car needs some of that. this car has been a DD that has recieved very little love and care, dad just kept the fluids topped off, and drove it.

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Don't mind how the front looks. There is no motor in there. 

The back is really close to how low the front is. 

 

IMG_20140317_190734964_zps01699490.jpg

 

 

 

These are baby Supras. 14x7. Not sure of offset, but really low. Maybe +4 to +8. To lazy to Google it.

The tires are175/65R14. And they fit good. 

Lightly stretched. Not too tall. I had a bunch of friends bouncing on the car when I put those on there. No rubbing. 

And that size is common enough that tires are super cheap. 

 

IMG_20140307_180200168_zps49cf23d3.jpg

 

 

FYI...195/45R14 is a really funky sized tire. And the fitment will be worse than you would think. 

195 is the width of the tire. There would be no stretch. It would balloon out, a lot. 

45 is a percentage. The sidewall height is 45% of the width. 

 

Probably not the look you're trying to achieve. 

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Sorry in advance as thus isn't my thread but I rather ask in here then start a new one. I don't know a lot about suspension either but was wondering what the major advantages are of using a ground control coilover kit over 280zx struts and vice versa. 280zx allows bigger brakes but what if we want more than that (stiffer suspension, better handling and cornering, etc)? What mods would one want to do if they're looking to race their car?

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No welding is required.

 

Get a set of zx struts, replace rotor and pads. Paint caliper red or orange whatever floats your boat.

 

Remove the zx spring and use hack saw or 6" angel grinder with cut off blade to trim around the top of the weld on the lower spring perch and remove it. Just enough to slice through the perch. Grind the old weld down smooth. Now trim your B-210 lower perches off neatly. These, and your B-210 springs will be going onto the zx strut tube. NO welding! They will be supported by 2" split collars, about $25.

 

Lowering a vehicle risks bottoming out on the same bump that you could easily clear before the lowering so the best cure is to reduce the suspension travel by increasing the spring rate. (this also improves braking and handling as the stock spring rate favors comfort above handling anyway) With a few easy measurements of your B-210 spring the spring rate (stiffness) can be worked out using a formula. I would imagine somewhere just under 100 pounds per inch but find out. I increased my 710 springs by 50% and this was/is a good start. Knowing your stock spring rate you can cut off a part coil to increase the rate. Best to start small, as once cut, you can't go back. Work your way up. A trimmed spring increases the rate and shortens the spring.

 

When assembled from bottom up you will have... split collar, B-210 lower spring perch, B-210 trimmed spring, B-210 top hat on the zx strut tube. Raise car front off ground to take the weight off the spring.  By compressing the spring, the split collar can be raised up the strut tube and clamped to raise the ride height. Do both sides and let the car down carefully. Check and adjust up or down to get the height you want. The zx struts alone will drop the height about 1.5" and the adjustable collars the rest. Cost for fully adjustable ride height and firmer springs is under $30 including a cutting disc for your grinder.

 

While you have the zx strut out and the spring off, loosen the gland nut at the top and remove the strut insides.  If they have been previously replaced with an after market insert (shock) you need read no farther. But if the original Nissan oil filled strut valving is still there, you are in luck. The old thin hydraulic oil can be dumped out and replaced with thicker (I used 20W) motorcycle fork oil. The thicker oil resists being pushed through the valve orifices and firms up the damping dramatically. Instead of $80 inserts you can spend $17 for thicker oil. I did this on both my 710 with great results.

 

Cost so far under $50

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No welding is required.

 

Get a set of zx struts, replace rotor and pads. Paint caliper red or orange whatever floats your boat.

 

Remove the zx spring and use hack saw or 6" angel grinder with cut off blade to trim around the top of the weld on the lower spring perch and remove it. Just enough to slice through the perch. Grind the old weld down smooth. Now trim your B-210 lower perches off neatly. These, and your B-210 springs will be going onto the zx strut tube. NO welding! They will be supported by 2" split collars, about $25.

 

Lowering a vehicle risks bottoming out on the same bump that you could easily clear before the lowering so the best cure is to reduce the suspension travel by increasing the spring rate. (this also improves braking and handling as the stock spring rate favors comfort above handling anyway) With a few easy measurements of your B-210 spring the spring rate (stiffness) can be worked out using a formula. I would imagine somewhere just under 100 pounds per inch but find out. I increased my 710 springs by 50% and this was/is a good start. Knowing your stock spring rate you can cut off a part coil to increase the rate. Best to start small, as once cut, you can't go back. Work your way up. A trimmed spring increases the rate and shortens the spring.

 

When assembled from bottom up you will have... split collar, B-210 lower spring perch, B-210 trimmed spring, B-210 top hat on the zx strut tube. Raise car front off ground to take the weight off the spring. By compressing the spring, the split collar can be raised up the strut tube and clamped to raise the ride height. Do both sides and let the car down carefully. Check and adjust up or down to get the height you want. The zx struts alone will drop the height about 1.5" and the adjustable collars the rest. Cost for fully adjustable ride height and firmer springs is under $30 including a cutting disc for your grinder.

 

While you have the zx strut out and the spring off, loosen the gland nut at the top and remove the strut insides. If they have been previously replaced with an after market insert (shock) you need read no farther. But if the original Nissan oil filled strut valving is still there, you are in luck. The old thin hydraulic oil can be dumped out and replaced with thicker (I used 20W) motorcycle fork oil. The thicker oil resists being pushed through the valve orifices and firms up the damping dramatically. Instead of $80 inserts you can spend $17 for thicker oil. I did this on both my 710 with great results.

 

Cost so far under $50

Thanks datzen mike. Assuming same applies for my story. And the 2" split collar gives me adjustable height, correct?
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Don't mind how the front looks. There is no motor in there. 

The back is really close to how low the front is. 

 

IMG_20140317_190734964_zps01699490.jpg

 

 

 

These are baby Supras. 14x7. Not sure of offset, but really low. Maybe +4 to +8. To lazy to Google it.

The tires are175/65R14. And they fit good. 

Lightly stretched. Not too tall. I had a bunch of friends bouncing on the car when I put those on there. No rubbing. 

And that size is common enough that tires are super cheap. 

 

IMG_20140307_180200168_zps49cf23d3.jpg

 

 

FYI...195/45R14 is a really funky sized tire. And the fitment will be worse than you would think. 

195 is the width of the tire. There would be no stretch. It would balloon out, a lot. 

45 is a percentage. The sidewall height is 45% of the width. 

 

Probably not the look you're trying to achieve.

 

Thanks, that's ideal. Appreciate the advice.
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Trim lower perches with hacksaw or grinder.

 

strutmods004Large-1.jpg

 

strutmods003Large.jpg

 

strutmods005Large-1.jpg

 

strutmods006Large.jpg

 

 

Smooth so that the split collar can slide up or down to adjust the ride height.

 

strutmods027Large.jpg

 

 

Split collars

 

strutmodsfor74710001Large.jpg

 

 

Assembled strut looks like this.

 

 

strutmodsfor747100011Large.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

If strut has the original dampers in them.

Remove gland nut

 

strutmods014Large.jpg

 

strutmods015Large.jpg

 

 

Rubber O ring must be removed, I used a dental pick, Save it for later.

 

strutmods018Large.jpg

 

 

Lift out damper assembly. It's messy so be ready for spills.

 

strutmods022Large.jpg

 

 

Dump out oil, no more than 1/3 liter

 

strutmods026Large.jpg

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And what about camber plates?

 

Unknown on the B-210. The 710 top hats are offset already slightly to the inside. Find a set or buy some camber plates. This mod is so cheap that the $600 you didn't spend on coil overs and inserts you can now afford them.

 

74strutswapjune13015Large.jpg

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Trim lower perches with hacksaw or grinder.

 

strutmods004Large-1.jpg

 

strutmods003Large.jpg

 

strutmods005Large-1.jpg

 

strutmods006Large.jpg

 

 

Smooth so that the split collar can slide up or down to adjust the ride height.

 

strutmods027Large.jpg

 

 

Split collars

 

strutmodsfor74710001Large.jpg

 

 

Assembled strut looks like this.

 

 

strutmodsfor747100011Large.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

If strut has the original dampers in them.

Remove gland nut

 

strutmods014Large.jpg

 

strutmods015Large.jpg

 

 

Rubber O ring must be removed, I used a dental pick, Save it for later.

 

strutmods018Large.jpg

 

 

Lift out damper assembly. It's messy so be ready for spills.

 

strutmods022Large.jpg

 

 

Dump out oil, no more than 1/3 liter

 

strutmods026Large.jpg

this is very informative. thanks for the pics. sounds pretty easy! :thumbup:

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This was my second set so I took way more pictures. My 710 goon I used 20W fork oil but it does come in other weights for bikers to 'tune' their suspension. I have no complaints with 20W although the guy who told me about this is now using 30W. For the 710 sedan that my wife often drives I used ATF which does not come by weight but falls somewhere between 7 and 12W depending on manufacturer. Both oils have anti foam and rust inhibitors in them. You can get ordinary hydraulic oil fore very cheap but they may not. One liter is enough for three struts. If you have the original dampers, as I did, they this is a great up grade for well under $20.

 

I highly recommend trimming the coil springs to increase the spring rate. Never trim them to lower a car. Do not just trim a coil off blindly. If too much you can't put back. I can work out your current spring rate and how much to trim off to increase it to whatever you would like. I like a 50% increase, others might like much more. The chances of getting the ride height you want AND the firmness (or softness) is extremely unlikely to be the same. Trim for firmness and adjust the ride height with split collars. I don't see why anyone would spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on coil overs. Once you get the height dialed in they are just money tied up and going along for the ride. I have $25 along for the ride, $47 counting the damper oil.

 

BTW... once I got my height where I wanted it I migged a small weld just below the split collar and easy to get at for peace of mind. Each 2" collar will support 6,000 pounds or 6 tons for the front end. Unlikely to slip if well tightened.

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