floyd17 Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 My transmission shifts really well at 4000 and below, but over 4000 it grinds. (Yes, I'm fully depressing the clutch pedal) is this normal? Quote Link to comment
floyd17 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Downshifting into 2nd is a bitch too. I have to rev match. In all other gears it shifts fine without rev matching. Quote Link to comment
Morrisun Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I have had three of these at one time or another in my 1200 coupe and the second gear grind when downshifting from 3rd is very common, the best trans, I have is in there now, with over 240K and it doesn't grind- but it came from a owner car, perhaps the lack of operator error is why. The shifting/grinding above 4000, sounds more like warned bearings/ or forks? one I ran didn't like high gear and was a loose/warn roll pin on the shift fork not allowing full engagement. I checked with local transmission shop, in the Portland Oregon area and they can still get bearings and synros, so still available. Quote Link to comment
floyd17 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I have had three of these at one time or another in my 1200 coupe and the second gear grind when downshifting from 3rd is very common, the best trans, I have is in there now, with over 240K and it doesn't grind- but it came from a owner car, perhaps the lack of operator error is why. The shifting/grinding above 4000, sounds more like warned bearings/ or forks? one I ran didn't like high gear and was a loose/warn roll pin on the shift fork not allowing full engagement. I checked with local transmission shop, in the Portland Oregon area and they can still get bearings and synros, so still available. Ok. Thanks for the info man. Will keep this in mind. My old man can rebuild a manual trans, too. So that cuts costs.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 The synchros act like tiny clutches. They slow the spinning clutch disc, input shaft and counter shaft down to match the next up gear. When down shifting it's the reverse. This assumes that the clutch disc is totally disconnected and not rubbing the flywheel or the pressure plate in any way. My transmission shifts really well at 4000 and below, but over 4000 it grinds. (Yes, I'm fully depressing the clutch pedal) is this normal? I assume this is up shifting. You should avoid down shifting at these revs. Make sure the clutch is not dragging first. Idle in neutral with the clutch out. Depress the clutch and shift into reverse. If it grinds try doing it slower. If it steadily grinds it dragging. Quote Link to comment
floyd17 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 The synchros act like tiny clutches. They slow the spinning clutch disc, input shaft and counter shaft down to match the next up gear. When down shifting it's the reverse. This assumes that the clutch disc is totally disconnected and not rubbing the flywheel or the pressure plate in any way. I assume this is up shifting. You should avoid down shifting at these revs. Make sure the clutch is not dragging first. Idle in neutral with the clutch out. Depress the clutch and shift into reverse. If it grinds try doing it slower. If it steadily grinds it dragging. yes, upshifting. and thanks for the tip. will try that tomorrow A.M. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 It's probably fine.... Transmissions get old. What oil do you use? Synthetics may be too slippery. 1 Quote Link to comment
floyd17 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 It's probably fine.... Transmissions get old. What oil do you use? Synthetics may be too slippery. it may need oil. my dad had the car before me and hadnt checked or changed the oil in years. dont even know whats in it. same goes for rear end. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 GL-4 80w90 or there abouts. Might as well change it. (every 3-5 years) Have two liters ready. .Do not use GL-5 rated oils. Whatever you get must be GL-4 compatible and say 'good with copper alloys' or 'yellow metal safe'. 1 Quote Link to comment
floyd17 Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 GL-4 80w90 or there abouts. Might as well change it. (every 3-5 years) Have two liters ready. .Do not use GL-5 rated oils. Whatever you get must be GL-4 compatible and say 'good with copper alloys' or 'yellow metal safe'. Ok. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
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