MY 76 B210 is a California GROSS POLLUTER

[Nicholas7620]

I failed my California Smog Test.  Not even close to passing anything.

 

I have 5 plus fails.  I have an exhaust leak before the catalytic convertor at the manifold.

 

My Muffler Man, Marc, found the leak to be in the exhaust manifold.  The bolt for the heat riser is broken.  If I can get the exhaust manifold off and bring it in, Marc will weld in a new bolt and fix the leak.

 

Here is where I am at.  I have removed Carburetor and 4 intake manifold nuts and can't loosen the intake manifold.  I don't want to break anything.  Are there more nuts holding the manifold on?

 

My '76 Datsun shop manual doesn't show how to remove the intake manifold and exhaust manifold.

 

I'm unable to upload PIC's, working on it. 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

ggzilla???

 

 

There are four bolts along the top of the intake that are easy to see and get at, and I think four along the bottom that hold both the intake AND the exhaust on. Probably with a large thick washer to bridge across them.

 

 

I don't think an exhaust leak is the cause of gross pollution. Expect something else.

[Nicholas7620]

Yes you are right datzenMike.  I'll upload a Pdf of my 2014 Smog Check Vehicle Report and my 2012 Smog Check Vehicle Report.  Its quite a contrast.  My carburetor is dumping fuel.  I only get 14 mpg!  YUK  Stinks like crap    :poop:  :yawn:   I failed on many checks especially in the ASM Emission Test Results

 

 

 

 

[/url]

 

[datzenmike]

You should be getting 2 1/2 times that for mileage.

 

Choke stuck

Needle valve dirty and not shutting

Float set wrong / stuck / sunk

[TENDRIL]

did you loosen the two bottom exhaust flange bolts?

[Nicholas7620]

I got a bad rebuilt carburetor.  My B210 ran again but the mileage sucked.  I ignored the bad MPG and stopped using the B210 as my daily driver.  I'm not sure what to do with the Carburetor.  I almost know crap about carbs.  I can remove them and install them.  B210 Carburetor's have been a pain in the behind for me.  I had a very good rebuilt carburetor for the 2012 Smog test then that Carburetor crapped out.

 

I'm working on removing the exhaust manifold so I can get the leaking eliminated.  A leaking exhaust is instant fail in Cali.  :devil:   :w00t:  I'm in deep  :poop:  :rofl: .

 

I'm motivated to pass smog again and I'm having fun wrenching on the B210.  It's hella fun to drive.  More fun than my TACOMA.  

 

Soon I'll go back outside and Jack up the B210 and see what I can see.  I'm going to go search the B1200 site first.

 

[/url]

 

[floyd17]

how to fix this problem: find family member (or spouse's family member) who lives in a state with minimal regulations (ie. Mississippi), have them register the car in their state. problem solved.

[TENDRIL]

meh it nicer to know you are legit.

 

 

and its a simple fix from the sounds of it 

 

cool car btw

[Nicholas7620]

did you loosen the two bottom exhaust flange bolts?

 

No I did not Tendril, I'm going to have to Jack up the front end and look from the underside of engine.  I just went outside and removed four more exhaust nuts.

 

This is my operating room and patient.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The GAS GUZZLING GROSS POLLUTER CARBURETOR

 

[Nicholas7620]

meh it nicer to know you are legit.

 

 

and its a simple fix from the sounds of it 

 

cool car btw

 

Yeah you're right.  You don't want to be pulled over by a PSYCHO Cali Cop. :devil:   :crying: They shoot first ask questions later. :devil:   We only hire psycho's in my town to be city police employees.   Cali cops are psycho everywhere in Cali.   :sneaky:  Safest to keep your hands on the steering wheel where a CALI cop can see them at all times.  :crying:

 

Safest to be SMOG Legal, licensed and registered.

[Nicholas7620]

Is it possible to remove just the intake manifold?  My intake manifold has separated an eighth of an inch from the head and doesn't want to come any more.

 

I don't want to force it and break something.  :w00t:

[datzenmike]

Ahhhh the intake and the exhaust manifolds are bolted together to use exhaust heat to warm the intake. Four more bolts.

 

If that carb was rebuilt it's easy to swap the primary and secondary jets. Primary should be the smaller of the two. A sondary jet will draw way more fuel and run super rich. Easy fix if it is.

[B210GX]

pull them off together.  as the intake and Ex gasket is ONE piece.

[Nicholas7620]

Ok, Thank you all, I have to work tomorrow AM till 1PM  I'm Psyched up to Jack up the right front and go looking for those last 4 nuts.

 

I have a new gasket and it looks like I only need one gasket although I see this gasket set for 1976 NISSAN B210 1.4L L4 : Engine : Intake & Exhaust Manifold Gasket Set 

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=125064&cc=1210802

 

 

 

Do I need the bottom gaskets?  I figured out the bottom gasket go on each side of the exhaust heat riser plate.

 

I have OIC's later in thread

[Nicholas7620]

Ahhhh the intake and the exhaust manifolds are bolted together to use exhaust heat to warm the intake. Four more bolts.

 

If that carb was rebuilt it's easy to swap the primary and secondary jets. Primary should be the smaller of the two. A sondary jet will draw way more fuel and run super rich. Easy fix if it is.

 

Yes, you are right Datzen Mike, My muffler friend Marc needs me to deliver him the exhaust manifold and he will weld the leak shut.

 

 I peeked at the Jets one said 145 on it and the other said 104 on it.  I'll recheck to confirm which is primary and which is secondary.  I have three carburetors in my collection.  Each time I get a rebuilt carb I keep the core.   :thumbup:   I can look at all three of them.  One Carburetor had a P and an S in raised letters.  

[datzenmike]

Primary is closest to the engine and the smaller of the two.

[Nicholas7620]

I jacked up my B210 to get a better view of how "in the hell" am I going to take off the EXHAUST MANIFOLD. 

 

I think I'm breaking new ground, I can't find "squat" searching in previous threads.  It's not like the good old days where a page of 100 threads would pop up during a search and three of them would be spot on..

 

 

 

 

 

Just to be hella SAFE, I have DOUBLE JACKED my B210.   B)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going to have to remove these three bolts, that should be fun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going to have to remove that silver tube which attaches to the EGR valve so I can remove the EGR assembly and make room between the intake manifold and fender wall.

 

That's what I ended up doing yesterday evening, was removing the EGR and spotting the EGR tube running along side the heat riser plate.  The tube connects to the underside of the EGR assembly.

 

I sprayed heavy amounts of PENETRATING oil last night to get ready for this mornings attempt to disconnect that silver tube which the SHOP MANUAL named the EGR TUBE.

 

I'LL go take an OIC right now.

 

[Nicholas7620]

It's a beautiful morning in North Cali, cool and a good day to "WRENCH".  July 2 - Happy Birthday DAD!

 

 

 

 

 

I've removed the EGR VALVE, PCV Valve and I'm going for the unhooking of EGR TUBE.

 

 

 

The EGR TUBE is under the EGR Mount.  I can't get a good OIC from the top of engine.

 

 

You can almost see the EGR tube in the shadow of the EGR mount.

 

 

 

 

This is ROXIE, she is small enough to wrench in tight spots.

 

 

 

Hollie, my Jack Russell Terrier, is in charge of enthusiasm.

 

 

 

This is communication central to the "DATSUNOLOGISTS" at Ratsun.net.  My Shop Manual is on top of desk.

 

 

I'll be back hopefully with the EGR assembly in an OIC.

 

Best,

[Nicholas7620]

Success, TAH DAH, I'm holding the EGR assembly, it wasn't easy.  I had to remove radiator hoses to make room for my wrenches, a 17mm and a 19mm to loosen the EGR tube.  I saturated the threads with penetrating oil and wire brushed the threads.  Once I got the wrenches on the scrubbed and oiled nuts, the EGR tube unscrewed easily.

 

 

 

There's the EGR tube.  It was tough getting my wrenches in there.  I would recommend stubby wrenches, or shorten your spare 17mm and 19mm box wrench.

 

 

 

I had to use a long extension to find the first of three exhaust nuts.  The first nut I had to go above the heat riser.  Removal was easy once I got the socket on the nut.

 

 

 

For the second nut I had to go under the heat riser to find the nut.

 

 

 

 

 

For the third nut I had to go under the heat riser and use a shorter extension because the brake assembly restricted access.  I use a smaller 1/4 socket because the space was smaller to get to the nut.

 

I went under my B210 and disconnected the three bolts holding to tail pipe to the exhaust manifold.  Two bolts came off easy because I was able to saturate the two bolts with penetrating oil.  The third bolt snapped and I twisted off the head because I couldn't get any penetrating oil onto the bolt.

 

TAH DAH!! There's the exhaust/intake assembly separated from the head.

 

 

 

There's the exhaust/intake assembly.  You can barely see two bolts that hold the intake manifold to the exhaust manifold.  I know "nice FLIP FLOP Nicholas", E-bay special.

 

 

 

 

 

There's the intake manifold.

 

 

 

Here are the exhaust manifold and intake manifold side by side.  The heat riser valve had lost its bushing seal.  The bushing was inside the chamber.  Exhaust gas was pouring out of the valve shaft.

 

 

 

The exhaust manifold is at the muffler shop.  I got it there by 2:30 PM.  Because of the 4th of July Holiday I may not get the exhaust manifold until Tuesday.  I'll probably get my rebuilt carb by Tuesday.  My engine bay is filthy.  The manifold is filthy.  I'll have plenty to keep me busy.

 

Have a great 4th!!!  Happy Birthday USA!!

[TENDRIL]

so it was the two center bolts or all four ? 

 

 

also love the enthusiasm in here !!! and the pic ratio !!'

 

 

glad you got it chipper skipper !!

[ggzilla]

Remember to not tighten the intake-to-exhaust bolts before putting the unit back on.

 

1. Fasten intake to exhaust, loosely

2. Fasten assembly to engine. Snug the bolts with your fingers, but do not tighten

3. Tighten intake-to-exhaust bolts

4. Tighten manifold to head

[Nicholas7620]

so it was the two center bolts or all four ? 

 

 

also love the enthusiasm in here !!! and the pic ratio !!'

 

 

glad you got it chipper skipper !!

It was 4 bolts, the one nearest the radiator, you can see.  The two middle ones, I had to use a long extension on my ratchet.  The second one, nearest the radiator, was accessible by placing the extension on top of the heat riser,  The third bolt was accessible by wrenching under the heat riser.  To get the fourth bolt out, again I had to go under the heat riser and use a shorter extension.  

 

I'll take PICs when I reassemble the exhaust and intake manifolds.   Looking back on what I did, If I had known the location of two bolts on the bottom of the exhaust manifold holding the intake manifold on, and removed them, then I could of removed the intake manifold and heat riser and the four bottom exhaust bolts would have been visible.

 

 

 

 

 

If I had known the location of these those two bolts, and, had I been able to remove them, Then the intake manifold would have lifted off and the heat riser would have also lifted off, exposing the four exhaust nuts.

 

 

 

Here you can see the four exhaust bolts.

[Nicholas7620]

Remember to not tighten the intake-to-exhaust bolts before putting the unit back on.

 

1. Fasten intake to exhaust, loosely

2. Fasten assembly to engine. Snug the bolts with your fingers, but do not tighten

3. Tighten intake-to-exhaust bolts

4. Tighten manifold to head

 

 

I understand what you are saying.  The intake exhaust assembly has to be tightened up into one solid unit.  Then I can tighten the assembly to the head.  Cool!   :thumbup: 

[Nicholas7620]

Wednesday morning, I picked up my repaired exhaust manifold.  Marc, my muffler expert, welded the exhaust leak shut.  No more leaking before catalytic converter.  An exhaust manifold leak is an instant smog fail in Cali.   :w00t:  Marc warned me about the fat washers I would need to assemble the manifolds together very important.  GGZilla and DM mentioned the fat washers in passing.  More on FAT washers later.  :confused:  It was new to me.

 

 

 

The heat shield is on loosely.  I wire brushed the heat shield, the heat shield shined up nicely.

 

The lower gaskets are used first.

 

 

 

 

 

I didn't know what the application for these gaskets were but I found out when I took off the manifolds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

When I disassembled and cleaned up the manifold assembly I found a heat destroyed gasket on both side of manifold plate.  The gaskets are a special gasket with metal sandwiched in the middle of each gasket.

 

 

 

These are the FAT Washers I was warned about by Marc, GGZilla et al.  If you don't have them, you can't proceed without something similar.  Luckily I found all four FAT washers.  The fat washers cover the intake and exhaust manifold, one FAT washer presses over the intake and exhaust manifold.  You might be able to see the machined tabs in my OIC's.

 

In the next PIC you can see the machined circle in the aluminum intake manifold and not so much in the cast iron exhaust manifold.

 

 

 

Another OIC of the "mustness" of FAT washers.  The FAT washers press the manifolds in the intake/exhaust gasket, very important.  Better OIC.  You can see the groove in the exhaust manifold.

 

 

I have to take a break.  I'll continue in a few minutes.

[Nicholas7620]

Bottom view of intake manifold, I wire brushed the intake manifold to a shiny finish as much as possible.

 

 

 

 

Loosely assembling manifolds together.

 

 

 

 

FAT Washers are a challenge to get on the head bolts.

 

 

 

 

 

The head gasket is on.  The metal side faces out towards the manifolds.

 

 

 

The second heat riser has to be in place and then you can move the intake/exhaust manifold assembly to the head bolts.  I started with the middle most top head bolt and worked my way toward the outside saving the two end studs for last.  All bolts are loose and hand tightened.  AND now for the FAT washers.

 

 

 

I used these hemostats/medical clamps to grip each fat washer and hold the fat washer in front of each head bolt and pushed the fat washer on with a socket on the end of an extension.

 

 

 

It was a new skill getting on the FAT washers.  I had to be patient and methodical.  I dropped a FAT washer now and then.  The tricky part is that you have to go below the heat riser to get the socket to push the FAT washer onto the head bolt and change the length of the socket extension.

 

Don't forget to put on the air cleaner support post like I did.  It goes on the second to last upper head bolt.  I tightened up all bolts from middle to outer edges.  Top middle, bottom middle, side middle top side middle bottom and so on.  Tighter and tighter.  Back and forth.  It was a lot of wrenching changing socket extensions above the riser below the riser.  It went faster as I got the hang of wrenching.