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Push Start Setup


JD210

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Posted pics of my new setup on the FB Ratsun and someone requested a How To.

So here we go.

 

Items Needed:

Push Start button kit. Basically a momentary push button and a 40amp relay. The kit just helps save some time.

Since I wanted a switch for both ignition and accessories, I also needed two relays. So I got the following: Two 2 prong switches (on and off, respectively); 2 40amp relays.

A spool of 8 gauge wire.

A spool of 12 gauge wire.

Wire cutter/stripper.

A crimper.

Quick release connecters - male/female.

Electrical tape.

Zip ties. Need some way to make everything nice n neat.

 

Materials set. Onto the fun stuff.

 

Access the wires needed. The wires are: start (ST), ignition (IGN), power (12v), and accessories (ACC).

If you don't know which is which, test them. With the tester I use, the 12v and start are easy. 12v wire will show that it's hot (usually indicated by a red light, but all depending on what kind of tester you're using) upon contact and continue to be hot after you turn the key ignition to on. The start wire will show ground, either nothing or green (depending on what tester you're using). You'll want to turn vehicle all the way on (start the vehicle basically). Upon doing so, the start wire will go hot. There go 2 wires. 2 to go.

The IGN and ACC wires are a bit trickier to sort. They will test the same (ground when probed, turning red/hot when key is turned to ON). To tell the difference, start the vehicle. The IGN will stay red/hot, while the ACC will go back to nothing.

Dunno about all Datsuns, but the colors of the wires in my b310 went as followed:

ST - black/white

IGN - black/yellow

12v - white/red

ACC - blue/green

 

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Once you got the wires in order, you'll gonna wanna disable the key ignition. Easiest way is to remove the clam shell (few screws). Unplug the white plug from behind the key ignition switch. The key ignition itself was held aloft by a clamp more or less. 4 screws. No biggie. In order to use the wires for the push start system, you're gonna haveta get rid of the white plug. Remember to give the plug some slack in case you wanna use it again in the future. I gave myself about 1.5 inches. Not much.

Next, prep the wires.

For me, I simply stripped about a 1/4 inch and used a female quick release connector. Since I deal with wires all the time at work, I had plenty to work with. I had 3 sizes to choose from: red, blue then yellow. I used the blue.

Once all the wires are capped. You're ready to get your switches ready. Also, before I forget, I used electrical tape on any exposed wires (nobody's perfect).

 

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Relays:

Hold a relay up. You should see 5 prongs. I named the four sides North, South, East, West. The way you know you're looking at it right is that North is horizontal with South vertically below. The middle prong should run parallel with North. You won't need this. I just capped this off with a blue female connector.

Now, prongs North and West are your power (12v). Use 12 gauge wire for this. You're gonna splice N and W together and together as one you will run this wire to the 12v wire in the steering column wire harness.

The South prong is your Out. Again, use the 12g wire. With all wires, be generous with length. You can always cut/shorten later. The East prong is the In. This is where you'll connect one of your switches.

Speaking of which...

 

Switch:

I used a simple two prong switch: On n Off.

Off is ground. Ground out.

On, you'll connect this prong to the East prong on the relay.

Easy.

 

Once you got the relay and switch prepped and connected together. Just repeat. Remember, I wanted separate controls for both IGN and ACC. So I needed two setups. If you don't care to separately control the IGN n ACC, then don't bother with a second setup.

 

Push Start Kit:

Push button is easy. Connect to relay. Done.

The relay, at least mine, came with 4 wires: power, ground and In n Out. With my relay, the In wire was on the outside and the Out right next to it (they were both blue).

Prep these wires however you see fit with connectors.

 

Now you got all switches n relays ready. Since you got 2 separate setups, you're gonna need to create 3 way trees. One for the IGN wire (two wires to connect into one, from the South prong on relay branching into 2 wires - to the IGN; to the IN wire on the push button relay) and the other for the 12v wire. Since you'll connect 3 wires to the 12v, a 4 way tree might be the way to go (3 into 1 wire). I didn't do this. I just tapped the 12v wire and connected the power wire from push button relay using a male connector. I still made the 3 way tree (2 into 1 - the 12v wire). Whichever floats your boat.

Now to connect everything.

 

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Setup One (Ignition switch):

Connect the 12g wire spliced from the North and West prongs on the 40amp relay to the main 12v wire. Remember, you should have capped the main 12v with a tree to allow multiple connections. Use one of the connections for this switch.

Connect the 12g wire coming from the South prong on the 12a relay to the main IGN wire. The wire coming from the relay should have a tree. 2 ends. One of these ends you'll connect to the main IGN wire. When you flip the switch to on, the power will run through into the relay (N n W prongs) and out from the South prong wire. Thus, the main IGN is primed n ready.

Don't forget. The East prong will be connected to the ON prong on the switch. Off prong on switch is ground.

 

Setup Two (accessories switch):

More or less a repeat of setup one. Wire spliced from North n West prongs will connect to main 12v wire.

East prong will connect to ON prong on switch.

South prong wire will connect to ACC instead of IGN. Quick easy way to see if it works. Turn on switch and run the windshield wipers and/or heater.

 

Push Button Kit:

Black wire. Ground out.

Red wire. Connect to main 12v wire. Connect either using a tree or just tap the wire.

Far outside wire is the IN wire. Connect this to one of the ends from the IGN wire coming from the South prong on the ignition relay. Let in the power! lol

Wire right next to the aforementioned wire, connect directly to the main ST wire. You might feel more comfortable using a bit of 12g wire as a precaution.

Done.

 

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Test the push start button.

Flip the ignition switch on and push the button. Mine is very responsive. Vehicle revs up after half a sec. Lot quicker than the key ignition.

Once you know everything works, mount the switches where you want. In regards to the key ignition, I removed it completely and placed the push start in its former spot. Tie up everything. Making it all nice n pretty and there you go.

 

If anyone needs clarification on anything, feel free to ask. I'll be posting more quick diagrams on the fb page.

Cheers,

JA

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Can't see how it would start and rev faster with a push button over a regular switch. Same starter same engine.

 

Also is there some way to prevent anyone from starting it and stealing it? Or did I miss this?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Can't see how it would start and rev faster with a push button over a regular switch. Same starter same engine.

 

Also is there some way to prevent anyone from starting it and stealing it? Or did I miss this?

I think he means the engine turns over quicker. Runnning power to the starter directly from the battery through a relay gives it full voltage as the ignition switch become just that a switch. The old wiring, the power runs through the ign switch then to the starter loosing voltage in the process because of all that length of wire. As you know with stock head lights and rewiring through a relay, those same old sealed beam Halogens will now be much brighter because they are getting full voltage instead of partial because of the path of the voltage through the old wiring. But then who's running stock dull head beams these days?

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I think he means the engine turns over quicker. Runnning power to the starter directly from the battery through a relay gives it full voltage as the ignition switch become just that a switch. The old wiring, the power runs through the ign switch then to the starter loosing voltage in the process because of all that length of wire. As you know with stock head lights and rewiring through a relay, those same old sealed beam Halogens will now be much brighter because they are getting full voltage instead of partial because of the path of the voltage through the old wiring. But then who's running stock dull head beams these days?

erm no, power from the switch goes to the solenoid, which then connects the big wire in your engine bay to the starter motor. If the wire from the ignition switch actually powered the starter it would burn up the switch/wire.

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The turning over just feels different. But that could be just me.

I'll post pics when I get home. Pics are on my phone.

With the switches and relays involved, I'm just controlling where n when the power is going.

Me, being someone who appreciates uniqueness, wanted a push start in the b310.

Plus, having bought the car from my coworker, the more I personalized the car the more it felt like mine.

Anything else, hit me up.

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