BenFoOw Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 HELLO EVERYONE! I'M BACK! I know it's been a while since I posted an update on my truck. With the wife, kids, life, etc.. getting in the way... and getting my truck back. My truck sat at a shop for 3 months. They removed the tranny and then never completed the job, due to being low on the totem pole. I found a replacement 5 speed tranny from a rebuilder and got a pretty good deal. When the shop went to install it, they found a few problems. - The top of the bell housing hit the inside of the tunnel. (about 1") - The drive shaft doesn't fit the tranny correctly. The yoke collar on the drive shaft is too big, or the oil seal & dust cover on the back of the tranny is too small. - The motor mounts for the current engine (NAPS Z20) are pretty hacked up. (I think that is why the tranny was sitting up so high) When the truck was up on the lift (i should have taken pictures) the motor does have the tilt. (if sitting in the drivers seat, it tilts to the left) So after getting a quote to do the work, I decided to just bring her home. I wasn't charged anything, just a waste of time, but I did buy the 5 speed. So I'm down a few hundred bucks. I've decided to try and build this on my own. So far I've drained all the fluids, removed the radiator, intake mani, exhaust mani and a few odds and ends. I'll be looking for a hoist on CL and borrowing my neighbors engine stand. I was hoping someone could help me out with verifying that this tranny will work and what I need to do in order to get it working. 1 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I think if sitting on drivers seat it should tilt to the right, well mine does (L16) 1 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I have never seen that cleaner looking tranny, dont ring a bell 1 Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 The cleaner one (the lighter colored one)is actually the automatic that I pulled out of it. I'll post a pic of the motor mount that made the engine tilt to the left. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 The NapZ engine is supposed to tilt to the left, and the L block is supposed to tilt to the right. You say the transmission hits the tunnel, in the front, middle, or back? If it hits in the front, the engine is likely sitting to high, this could be an issue, if it hits in the middle or back, then that would depend on the transmission mount, and since it has been modified, you would need to take a photo of that mount, as it's hard to tell what you have in there. Back to the transmission, when you bolt it up to the transmission, did the shifter stick straight up, or tilt to one side or the other? Why are you pulling the engine? 1 Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hey Wayno- The trans hits in the front. At the very top of the bell housing. The motor is definitely mounted too high. At least it's too high for this new tranny. It's all because of the hack job motor mounts. I'll post pics of the mounts when I get a chance, that's why I'm pulling the motor. But with the motor out, that just opened up the door to a lot more possibilities. I didn't get a chance to even bolt up the new tranny to see if the shifter titled one direction or the other. 1 Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 So I think I have identified my transmissions. Both are 31.5". 3N71B is what came out. (of course DatzenMike was right) FS5W71B is the replacement that I have. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 This is a picture of the long five speed in a 521/L-18 truck. It does not hit anything. I can get a better picture of the transmission mount tomorrow, I am working on the exhaust system of the truck. The front (engine) mounts are just the stock L-16 ones. 1 Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 This is a picture of the long five speed in a 521/L-18 truck. It does not hit anything. I can get a better picture of the transmission mount tomorrow, I am working on the exhaust system of the truck. The front (engine) mounts are just the stock L-16 ones. Thanks Daniel- But I have a Naps Z20 with questionable motor mounts. If you're using stock L motor mounts, would it be safe to safe that I should be able to use stock Z motor mounts? Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I do not know. The motor mounting is generally done by three parts. The bracket between the engine and rubber isolator, the rubber isolator, and the bracket welded to the frame. If you are putting a L-engine in a 521 you change all three parts, each side of the engine. And then you have to deal with oil pan clearance between the frame, and steering or suspension parts. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 I put a Z20 5speed in my 70 521 years ago. Unfortunately I did document this swap. I had a hard time getting the engine to sit properly. I ended doing a 3" body lift to get the hood to close. Unfortunately my advise to you would be to find a 720 regular cab standard bed truck with a bad body. Strip the bed and cab off the 720 and set your 521 cab and bed on the chassis. This will give you front disk brakes, ball joint front suspension, exhaust system, driveline, correct engine & trans mounting, an upgraded wiring harness with a few mods to make it work with the 521, and a much easier swap. You might even get lucky and get a good engine and trans. This will be a much faster transition for you and Wayno has documented this already! You might say Wayno is a professional at putting 520, 521 on the 720 chassis. There is also the KA swap which is well documented. If you choose to go with with what you have I hope you know a welder because you are going to have to make mounts tor the engine. No stock mounts fit I know from experience. Let me know how you choose to go. I will help as much as I can. Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted February 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Thanks Charlie! I think I'm going try and stick as close to my original plan and use what I have. I will have a buddy of mine weld up the mounts. But now with the motor out, I'm thinking about building an LZ motor. I've started doing my research on that. At this point, I just want to get the motor out, clean out the bay and go from there. Ben 1 Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Lz is a lot of fun.. I have a lz2.3 in my 521.. things great!! Fun to build and holy hell is it fun to drive.. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 If the motor mounts are questionable, then by all means redo them in a lower position if you can(oil pan clearance), if the transmission just barely hits the tunnel, and the mounts you have are not going to fall apart, then I would take a small sledge and hammer on the tunnel to make more room, but this will only work if you only have to move it a little(less than an inch), it's all about doing what you need to do to make it work, I am low tech, if a hammer will work, that's easier than making new mounts. Charlie gives me more credit than I deserve, I make lots of mistakes when I do my conversions, but I have the equipment to fix most of them when I need to, or I try another way. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 26, 2015 Report Share Posted February 26, 2015 You said you have to rebuild the engine. You said you have a small selection of tools this says to me you will have to have a shop do the rebuild. Here in Phoenix you are looking at $1500 minimum to rebuild the Z24. That $1500 will go a long way to putting a 720 chassis and running gear under your truck. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 You already have a big 2-liter engine. Why build up a new engine? Put in the transmission and start enjoying driving your classic. LZ or Z you need to fix the motor mounts. The 510 rubber isolators are the thinnest type. The Z20 ones are taller. But maybe the brackets are the wrong ones or made wrong. If your engine is smoking, just hone it and fit new rings. $200 including gaskets and rings and honing. 1 Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Here's an update. Pulled the engine on Saturday. [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/BenFoOw/media/Datsun%20521/IMG_3251_zps51kuv5dj.jpg.html'> So I'll leave the block for now until I can get a chance to check all the bearings for the crankshaft. I think I'll leave the block alone. I will remove the head and check the valves, rods, etc... Clean what I can and do a little work on the head. (hopefully, I can do all this myself and avoid a machine shop.) I KNOW, I KNOW..... Naps Z isn't a performance head etc.... But I'm looking to polish (not really ported, just cleaned & polished), headers, SU carbs (Weber 40 DCOE that i got from a buddy at work. I know those are too big... but that's what I got), exhaust. Possibly a mild cam. (I've been looking at the Web CAM .440 cam or the Comp .460 cam) Comp does have a .452 so I need to do some more research. I will probably need stiffer springs with those... That's where I'm at now. I won't have a lot of time for the next few weeks, but I'll post an update as soon as I make some progress. I welcome all of your input on this build. Thanks! Ben 1 Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Had to split up my post. Check out the mounts. (Are the mounts supposed to be facing opposite directions? [/url]">http:// This one was on the driver's side. [/url]">http:// This was the mount on the passengers side. Check out the bubble gum welds. [/url]">http:// This oil caked everywhere on the engine. [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/BenFoOw/media/Datsun%20521/P3110238_zpspzadgcml.jpg.html'> 1 Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Took off the cover. [/url]">http:// Took off the oil pan. There is some rubbing from the tie rod & crossmember [/url]">http:// I can't tell if that's paint or oil residue. Either way, I'll clean it out. if I can still use this oil pan. [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// Wanted to check out the bearings on the crankshaft. Only took off 1. I am going to wait until I get a torque wrench. to check all of the bearings. I'll make sure to mark the configuration of off of the bearing locations. The one that I did take off, looked good. It's still shiny. There doesn't seem any deep scratches. Everything was still lubricated. [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/BenFoOw/media/Datsun%20521/P3110246_zpsusqof9zs.jpg.html'> Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted March 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 Started ordering some parts & tools this week. Gaskets, carb rebuild kit, intake manifold, looking and getting headers and a mild cam. I KNOW, I KNOW.... the NAPS Z20 isn't made for performance, I know that the valves are so close that they may touch if the cam is too aggressive, but as long as I'm doing a valve job, I figured now is my chance to do any internal upgrades. I was looking at the following. webcamshafts Grind #158i [/url]">http:// Comp CamsGrind# 260S [/url]">http://http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/BenFoOw/media/Datsun%20521/COMP%20CAM_zpsumsurde3.png.html'> Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted March 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 Took the head off. There was a major oil leak coming from the gasket. Wanted to check the cam. There is some odd wear on a section of the shaft that doesn't come in contact with anything. Can someone tell me if this is ok? There is some uneven edges, it's not on the lobe. Is this something to be worried about? [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// Here's a pic of one of the cylinders. [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/BenFoOw/media/Datsun%20521/P3200261_zpsapzxa4qw.jpg.html'> 1 Quote Link to comment
oldskoolvws Posted March 23, 2015 Report Share Posted March 23, 2015 plastiguage does wonders. Motor looks good, just needs a real good cleaning. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2015 Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 You have a '69 521 and it came with a J13 engine. The mounts for it are much farther to the front than the next year when the L series engine was used. If it had the L series mounts your Z20 engine brackets would pretty much drop onto them. The black coating on the very bottom of the oil pan is just paint. Grind 158i doesn't say what engine it's for. Make sure it will work in a Z20. Started ordering some parts & tools this week. Gaskets, carb rebuild kit, intake manifold, looking and getting headers and a mild cam. I KNOW, I KNOW.... the NAPS Z20 isn't made for performance, I know that the valves are so close that they may touch if the cam is too aggressive, but as long as I'm doing a valve job, I figured now is my chance to do any internal upgrades. I was looking at the following. webcamshafts Grind #158i [/url]">http:// Comp CamsGrind# 260S [/url]">http:// The stock valve spring is rated at 115pounds at full lift. This will be your weakest link in the cam. Contact Doug http://community.ratsun.net/user/2344-sealik/ he put some ford springs on his 135 pounds I think. Hasn't been around for a month so try his project or build threads. There is some odd wear on a section of the shaft that doesn't come in contact with anything. Can someone tell me if this is ok? There is some uneven edges, it's not on the lobe. Is this something to be worried about? [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// Here's a pic of one of the cylinders. [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// 1st pic.... That's the cam bearing journal, it's fine. 2nd pic... Just the casting flash ground down when made, it's fine. 3rd pic... cylinder looks good.* * This is a Z20 Mileage option engine. It has flattop pistons and 6", 152.5mm long rods. With the W04 head's combustion chambers are 10-12 cc's smaller than the Z22 and Z24 Z heads and it has a whopping 9 to one compression. If you look closly at the bottom edge of the combustion chamber you can see a small quench area... You blocked the chain tensioner from falling out... right? 1 Quote Link to comment
BenFoOw Posted March 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2015 Thanks Mike! The webcamshaft is for a Naps Z motor, but if you're saying the cam is fine, I'm going to leave it. just replace the gaskets. I have the chain blocked with a pice of wood. I have to exchange my gaskets that I got from RockAuto. Weird thing on their website. I order 1980 720 2.0L 4cyl gasket set. (not the right one). Then I checked the other years, 1981 & 1982 doesn't show a 720 4.0L 4cyl option. I have to go with 1983. NOt sure if anyone else has experienced this. Thanks again for the help Mike! Quote Link to comment
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