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No Really, Its never been asked!!!


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I least I'm freaking hoping so.  Searched a long time.  Here is my specific question.  Is there a specific measurement for the front sway bar between the control arm and the sway bar itself.  The 69 510 did not come with a sway bar so I ordered a 1" aftermarket (im afraid to tell you where I got it).swaybar007_zps8e1fe555.jpg

Just does not seem long enough to me.  Any input.

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Ok, I admit. My searching ability sucks. I can't find that post

I'm just fucking with you. Fake quote. You gave too many fucks, so I gave some back.

 

On topic, I can't imagine why you wouldn't just test em. The poly might crumble early with those washers, but it'll take some time.

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Not that it matters much, but the correct way to install the bolt is from the bottom up.  That way, the excess is upward, and not hanging down where it can get hit by road debris. 

 

I'm running the ST Anti-sway bar.  The bolt length is 6".  It measures near 5" from bolt head to nut after being torqued down to spec.  The parts stores usually carry the "proper" bushing washers in the "Help" section, if you desire going that route.

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Lowered cars generally require shorter than stock sway bar links. The drop in the bar swings rearward toward the front cross member when the car is lowered and during bump travel (compression) of the suspension. This is assuming the 510 has a stock front cross member.

 

If the car's suspension has been modified, it is likely that the bump travel (upward wheel travel) has been increased by installing shorter struts, camber plates, shorter bump stops, etc. All of this allows the sway bar drop to get closer to the cross member and if the links are too long, the drop in the bar will contact the front cross member before full bump travel is reached This will bind the suspension and possibly damage it or worse.

 

If you are installing modified suspension parts it is important that the suspension be run thru its full travel to verify there is no binding. Pull out the springs and disconnect the opposite side sway bar link.

 

First check for any binding at full droop (suspension fully extended). Next, jack under the suspension so it travels thru its full range of motion. Check that everything clears and works without binding until the suspension is a full bump (suspension fully compressed).

 

It is possible for the drop in the sway bar to make contact with the cross member before full bump is reached. If this happens you will need shorter sway bar links. If at full droop the bar contacts the oil pan, you may be able to use longer links if the sway bar is clearing the cross member at full bump. The ultimate goal is to prevent any suspension binding from outside the suspension system, but if binding at full droop does not create damage (ie sway bar against the oil pan), it is a compromise that you might consider living with.

 

Having any kind of "non-suspension" travel limits is a judgment call but the goal is always to obtain full range of travel without any restrictions.

 

As to the design of your sway bar links, they are typical for aftermarket and many of today's OE parts.The original fixed stud/washer link used on the 510 has long been discarded by manufacturers. Different doesn't always mean inferior, it can mean just different.

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Ryan Family 510, on 03 Jun 2014 - 8:45 PM, said:

Ok, I admit. My searching ability sucks. I can't find that post

I'm just fucking with you. Fake quote. You gave too many fucks, so I gave some back.

 

On topic, I can't imagine why you wouldn't just test em. The poly might crumble early with those washers, but it'll take some time.

 

 

Good one, so funny. I cut and pasted that into the search!!!! I'm a dork!!

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Thanks for all the tips. I'll get the bastard installed and go through the suggested tests! Thanks for both the advice and the fucking with me!!! I love that shit! Still farting around with body work and waiting for my $$ to come in. Then engine rebuild, suspension, then picks of where we are at.

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Dime Dave gave great advice there. As long as there's on contact with other parts, and you're with in 10-15 degrees from parallel to ground @ neutral stance position you should be good to go. Really, there's very little difference the actual bar angle will have on sway stability. It's not likely you'll have to change anything, but if you need to adjust beyond the linkage bolts thread capacity. just get another good quality bolt and sleeve spacers of a different length. You may also want to invest in some lock nuts for the linkage ends if the kit didn't provide them already.

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Links should work fine at that length and I'm using a similar sway bar mount from energy suspension. I just modified the bracket by grinding the ears back a bit too fit the original bolt hole location.

 

 

I plan on doing the same. The new brackets have two bolt locations yet there is only one threaded nut on the frame. I plan on getting a longer bolt and running it all the way through the frame for the second bolt location. I also need to grind down the ears so they fit. I'll take a few pics as I go.

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That long bolt through the framing for the sway bar,,,,did you put in a tube within the frame for the bolt to run through? Because your only going to cause the top part of the frame to buckle when you torque it down. Also before you attached the swaybar to the LCA did you test and make sure the swaybar moved freely and didn't have any binding or was really hard to move? Hopefully you greased the swaybars bushing really well.

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