521ls Posted February 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 does this count as ground up resto? diff and axles/ hubs, brake drums in the rear end all reco'd 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Looking good with the L motor. Early in this thread when you were talking about spending money and time trying to turbo a J13 I thought you had banged your head hard and was in a daze! LOL 1 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Looking good with the L motor. Early in this thread when you were talking about spending money and time trying to turbo a J13 I thought you had banged your head hard and was in a daze! LOL it would have worked fine just not the power or boost i wanted. even now an sr would be easier but not as cool. 1 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted March 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 been doing alot of research and thinking lately about the ute plans (only thinking unfortunately as Im currently respraying my 22ft fiberglass fishing boat) fueling is what I keep getting stuck on. The options are: 1. Blow through carb turbo - potentially very difficult to manage a balance between lean and rich on or off boost and modifying a perfectly good carb to make it a potential nightmare. 2. Going efi with or without individual throttle bodies- expensive and honestly if i wanted an efi engine i'd throw in an sr and be done with it. 3. Using the SC14 supercharger I've got sitting there with a set of 50 dcoe's or 38 dgms and a set of pacemaker headers with 2.5" stainless exhaust. at the moment im liking the 3rd option as the sound would be mental and it would be easier to tune and probably more reliable. I have a bit of research to do on the dcoe's as far as sizing goes as I wont be using twins, i know usually they are set up one tube per cylinder. probably just better to get the expert advice from redline directly. Has anyone got any experience with option 3. interested in power figures to in comparison to turbo, power curve, efficiency range etc 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 28, 2015 Report Share Posted March 28, 2015 Positive displacement SCs give instant boost when you step on it, no turbo lag and no sudden boost. Your 'boost' is totally throttle controlled. The maximum amount of boost can be adjusted by changing by the pulley ratios. They do have parasitic power loss when not being used and for every 10 hp gained 2 or 3 extra were needed just to drive it. With a SC just about any carb will do even an old chev 2bbl. Header is ok. I wouldn't run more than a 2" or 2 1/4" pipe. There's no need, but you could run a low restriction turbo muffler. 1 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted March 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Thanks. yeh thats the downside to the supercharger you have to make a 300hp engine to get 200hp. I have built a few turbo and supercharged efi cars before so basically im just trying to get the carb and venturi size right. I have never driven an L20b car so i need to know the peak power rpm of the standard L20b and i can go from there. has anyone got a dyno sheet handy? Any application of a muffler will be purely legality with hardly any function at all as its not a daily driver. 2.25 would a single 50 dcoe with the right venturi flow enough for a charged built engine? I do also like the idea of some IDA trumpets protruding the bonnet of the little 521, not practical in the wet but oh so cool. also thinking of bumping up the static compression to 9.0:1 to give me more potential as the SC14 hits its thermal efficiency limit at 15 psi. Heres a "rustic" version of a sc12 on a L16 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 29, 2015 Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 Peak power of L20B is 5600 rpm, torque 3600 J13 comes stock with forged rods, doesn't it? 1 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted March 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 cheers. not sure about the J13 but the L series come with forged rods and crank 1 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted March 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2015 when in doubt call the experts. called weber australia and they recommended a dcoe 45 with a 32 mm venturi. $517 for 45 plus $150 for linkages thats a lot cheaper than the efi option. now I just need some spare time..... and a sand blasting hopper.... and paint..... and.... well a lot yet. 1 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted February 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 so its been a long time...... If daydreaming and research got things done it'd be done 10 times by now. Got the ute sand blasted and primed which exposed a lot of nasties, trying to track down a panel beater thats keen for a challange. I've got one working for me as a house painter at the moment, he does panel beating on weekends but i'm definately in the market for some rust repair panels ie... lower rear and front headlight shroud of both fenders, left and right lower windscreen pillars plus all the small bits and pieces here and there. Trying to keep it alive desperately but parts are almost impossible to find. Plans have changed several times as far as drive train goes so I'll keep that under wraps until its sitting on the chassis. does anyone know any Aussie 521 owners that would offload some panels? 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 That is looking great! 2 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted February 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 That is looking great! I wish it looked as good in person. Any U.S or international members have any spare panel patch parts? 1 Quote Link to comment
datson4life Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Nice! 1 Quote Link to comment
windowless66 Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 I wish it looked as good in person. Any U.S or international members have any spare panel patch parts? Unfortunately I think you will have to get pretty good at making patch panels yourself :/ I've got a 521 that looks like its going to look exactly like yours if stripped back 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 What panels are you needing. I shipped 4 hot wheels to Australia recently and it was $22.75. So shipping will be expensive. Make a list and we can go from there. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Hi guys. This is my first datto Its a 66ish 521 tray back. I'm about two weeks into my build and everything is pulled down to the bare chassis. Had some serious mud and surface rust as it lived on a farm for 30+ years. Acid or caustic dipping all components and repainting. Ive got the engine pulled down too. I was wanting to drop in a Chevy LS1 v8 in but I'll save that for later. At the moment I'm researching parts availability. What I need is forged conrods for the j13 as I'm just going to turbo the original 1300 for now. Ive got a new Garrett gt1742 turbo for it with a .48 front and rear a/r. Any suggestions for part sourcing. I'm going to use A12 forged pistons. Looking for 14+psi boost. Wanting 150-200hp. The J series use only 3 main bearings, the L series use 5 and are much more and better supported. As stated the internals are almost indestructible. 200 hp is almost 4 times the J13's output. Have you thought about an L16 or even better an L20B? 1 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 What panels are you needing. I shipped 4 hot wheels to Australia recently and it was $22.75. So shipping will be expensive. Make a list and we can go from there. Bottom sill front right lower rear fender right side and inside below top front right fender front top left fender left front lower pillar full left side lower pillar left lower rear fender lower front valance its a bit large to ship but if your is in better condition it can be cut in three pieces (in the least obvious sections above the slots) and joined here by my panel beater almost forgot the piece de` re`sistance 1 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 What panels are you needing. I shipped 4 hot wheels to Australia recently and it was $22.75. So shipping will be expensive. Make a list and we can go from there. it may be easier to box up the car and send it over! :crying: the lower pillar both sides of the windshield and fender supports will be the most difficult to replicate 2 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 The J series use only 3 main bearings, the L series use 5 and are much more and better supported. As stated the internals are almost indestructible. 200 hp is almost 4 times the J13's output. Have you thought about an L16 or even better an L20B? had planned on using a supercharged l20b but still would of cost close to $10,000 to get engine built to 250hp. i'm using something along the lines of a 2.5ltr turbo straight 6 with a 5 speed and an easy 250hp at the treads for roughly $3500 for a half cut. bye bye firewall and trans tunnel. it all hinges on the body work at the moment before i go and outlay some $ 1 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted February 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 holey datsun batman!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 I will be over tomorrow taking my 85 720 ST to get inspected for a bonded title. I will take pictures of what is available. Fix your valance. I have a couple pairs of rockers left. I need to look closely at the cab we have to see if I am willing to cut it up. If I decide it will be cut I will need payment in full shipping included before I will cut it up. I got burned several years ago and cut up a 55 Chevy 2 door hard top and did not get paid after cutting it. We will discuss price after I see if the cab is bad enough to cut. 1 Quote Link to comment
finney Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 I am in West OZ, but….. I have replaced every single peice of rusted steel your 521 has off what was my donor 520 truck. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 Bird-shit welds.... looks like it's been repaired in the past. . 1 Quote Link to comment
521ls Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Bird-shit welds.... looks like it's been repaired in the past. . yeh the previous owner had a crack at it before he gave up and put fiberglass patches everywhere 1 Quote Link to comment
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