opinions on my rust situation please

[Dr. Octagon]

ok so here is the rust... what do you guys think is it worth cutting out and re welding or can I get away with just coating it?....hmmm cant get the picture on..

[metalmonkey47]

Embrace the rust. Clear coat, patina, rims, low, done.

[datzenmike]

Embrace the picture posting.

[jvb5577]

That rust is so bad there is no more car left...

[Dr. Octagon]

are you guys just dragging and dropping to post pics? i did that but the pick didnt show

[Draker]

are you guys just dragging and dropping to post pics? i did that but the pick didnt show

 

Look at this thread for info on posting pics:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/691-how-to-post-pictures-and-keep-online-photo-albums/

[Dr. Octagon]

damn it im gonna figure this out

[Draker]

Post pics to pic hosting site or failbook... picasa or some shit. Copy image address and use the image button in the editor. Done.

[Dr. Octagon]

[Dr. Octagon]

Victory is MINE!

[izzo]

lol what rust?

 

The trunk pan could use a few small patches.... other than that, just clean it up... 

[Dr. Octagon]

there seems to be some kind of protective layer laid down in the floor pand there is rust around the rubber plugs it look s a bit thin i was thinking about removing the plugs and cutting the rusty circles out.

[q-tip]

In all seriousness for a Datsun, that's virtually no rust

[Jester]

lol what rust?

 

The trunk pan could use a few small patches.... other than that, just clean it up... 

 

X2   What rust........

 

Seriously, that is not bad at all. Get all the tar crap out and blast the whole trunk. Then you will know exactly where you have rust or thin spots to fix. Finish it off with a nice coat of

Por 15.  There are plenty of dime guys here that have replaced the ENTIRE trunk to keep there cars on the road. Consider yourself blessed with a good one!

[Dr. Octagon]

Don't get me wrong I know how lucky I am on the minimal rust situation. I'm thinking of preservation for the future. What do you think would be the best way to remove the tar layer.

[Nuclear Water Boy]

Don't get me wrong I know how lucky I am on the minimal rust situation. I'm thinking of preservation for the future. What do you think would be the best way to remove the tar layer.

I know some guys have layed dry ice on the stuff where it freezes it solid then strike it easily with a hammer breaking it out. Another way would be a heat gun and a 4" wide putty knife. But be aware from what I understand, the undercoating and insulation used back then had asbestos in it.

[q-tip]

The tar crap on the floor it seems dry ice is the best method for removal, a hammer or a good scrapper will take it off once frozen

[tr8er]

Liquid Nitrogen is faster, and won't further oxidize the metal. Just kidding. Get some dry ice, a hammer, a 2" scraper, and some music that gets you up. Also have some wire wheels or brushes ready to clean up the metal. Then wash and dry well. (with alcohol if you like). Treat rust with converter according to label (OSPHO). Then wash and dry again. Then coat three times with POR15. Then recycle your beer bottles, and repair your marriage.

[metalmonkey47]

Do you have any pictures of the rust?



Seriously that's just so minimal. You should get some POR15 for the floor pans.

[DanielC]

I am not a fan of POR 15.  I believe you should remove rust, not cover it.  Long story short, rust once it exists, greatly increases the tendency of good metal to rust, if it ever gets wet again.  POR 15 claims to convert and encapsulate rust. 

If the POR 15 coating is ever compromised, water can get under it, and stay there.  More rust.

I have used different products that convert rust.  The problem is they only convert a thin layer of rust on top of the red rust.  If you wirebrush the converted rust, you usually find more red rust under the converted rust.

As far as encapsulating the metal, you can do that with a good epoxy primer.

[Dr. Octagon]

heres some more pics i took today. I peeled a bit of the tar layer off and its seems to be doing its job well. no rust at all underneath. that being said do you guys think I could go with por15 right over top of it and not remove the tar layer?

[zed]

Daniel C is correct - rust 'converters' are a waste of money. The right way to do this is to use abrasives and chemicals - sanding discs, flap wheels, grinder discs etc, until you have bright metal. Sand blasting would be ideal. Naval jelly - phosphoric acid - will take out rust in the metal pores without removing metal. Then clean it all with thinners. Weld in patches or use GRP matting. Prime with a zinc-rich primer or epoxy. I did this on my old Landcruiser and its still good 18 years on..

[tr8er]

POR15 over that stuff would likely be worse than not doing it. For the exact reason stated. Water would get in, and not be able to get out. I've had this problem before and it is truth. Even straight on bare metal, if the metal gets dented, the POR cracks and actually promotes rust. But that stuff that is there can be a problem down the line. I'd get it off. Epoxy primer is great too. If POR, use POR metal prep on the bare metal. This will significantly improve adhesion. If Epoxy, don't go cheap. There is a big difference between bottom shelf, and middle shelf. You are blessed with these floor pans, so keep them up.

[datsun 160J SSS]

I used rust bullet  works great . did my own test did half a rusted area and let it set outside for one year the treated area did not re-rust .

[edekalil]

You need to first remove that layer of that tare stuff off the metal to see what the metal under it looks like. Then decide how to attack it. I have a 2 door sedan I have a set of floor pans that need putting in.

Your car looks to be better than the one I , good luck on it.