Gradyfest Posted February 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Going through my phone I found a good photo showing about the only way I broke the keeping it stock goal I'm doing. The "mod" is actually one of my favorite things that I've done to the truck. Early on owning the truck I ran into a few moments when I had to roll three deep in the blue bomber. Say a friend calls to get picked up and I'm already out with my lady. It was tight, but if you put the smallest person in the center it worked and I was able to shift around a leg. The real problem was that it only had two seat belts. It was illegal and unsafe to ride with three in the cab. So I went on a mission for a matching center belt. As I've already said, running across parts was, and still is hard in my area; especially nice blue interior parts. But at the end of a long day months ago, at my third pick place, I came across a D21 that was completely stripped but of the blue passenger and center belt. That's all that was left to even tell what color interior it had! I already noticed that beneath my mat and some rubber plugs in my cab was two spots for center seat belt bolts. In the yard I studied how the pan of the D21 and 720 had the bolts for the center seat in the same spot and where the same size, amongst other similarities. I bought the belt cheap and walked away happy. Ever since it's came in handy countless times. It's not a perfect match since the center button is a different color. So me and my OCD, if anybody has an EXACT matching, clean center belt for my truck; I'm interested... Oic! 3 Quote Link to comment
Buzzbomb Posted February 21, 2015 Report Share Posted February 21, 2015 Holy Crap! This has to be the most miles I have ever seen on any Datsun in any wrecking yard I've ever been to! Wow.. These are CLEAN trucks body wise; it's a shame that many are going to the crusher. Almost worth a trip out to get one. I was going back in this thread to see if you were using the Row 52 website or app. I didn't see it. I don't know where you're located in CA, but this truck looks pretty clean and may have some stuff you're looking for. http://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/KH720240441 On a side note, I saw that you replaced your hood release ( I think..It's a long thread! Could have been the E-brake). Anyway, for anyone else, if you live in an area where Datsun Trucks are hard to find, a hood pull from a '86-'89 Subaru works pretty nice. I looked all over for a new hood pull for my truck and finally gave up and bought the Subaru one. It works great with minimal hassle. I said it before..The blue 4X4 720 in this thread is the nicest Datsun truck I've seen in decades. Thanks for posting the pics and part pics, too. 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted February 22, 2015 Report Share Posted February 22, 2015 Bad news... I got into the private yard today and I don't know if that truck came with the package tray. I looked at the mount points to see if there was any sign of one being installed and it looked untouched. Sorry to say, no package tray was found in or around the truck. It looked to be a fairly bare bones model with vinyl lined floors. No tack or clock. I'll keep an eye out. It's a big yard, and they get these trucks all the time. I usually can get early access to them also. 2 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 It's the highest I've seen as well Buzzbomb! That's actually one of the things I like to check out when in the yards. I like seeing exactly when they had there last mile. Gives you a good idea of the reliability of stuff. Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Here we go, I've done a lot of work this weekend. The truck was running funny, sputtering again. But this time it was like it wasn't getting enough spark. The first thing I did was replace the spark plugs to some recommended out of the manual. I went with cold plugs since I roll at a sustained 55mph a lot. Then I replaced the cap and rotor, the cap contacts inside were pitted. It helped for a while. Then I did another hydrometer test to the battery. Four of the six cells were barely in fair, the other two barely in good. So I replaced the battery with a top-of-the-line. I also cleaned up all the contact points from the distributor to the main harness and all the contact areas at the coil. This got rid of the sputter and it runs better than ever! It also got rid of my jumping tachometer needle that I've always had to look at! More oics! I need to do something about this soon. I'm guessing that this happened while it sat in storage two decades. It looks worse than it really is. It's still solid were it counts. I found an OEM 720 plastic tray. Little folded sand paper moved in and out to clean it up at the contact area. I also pinched it a hair tighter with some pliers. Also cleaned up the male end. Same folded sand paper over a standard screw driver. Nothing to aggressive. 1 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I also cleaned up the contact area of the rotor. Don't have an after, but here's the before. It was bad. 3 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 You beat mine by just 11 miles! Well it was mine for a short time. I pulled it and shipped it to 84720FourWheel. It's still something to be proud of. Nothing like a 12 or 24 valve cummins though... Or that million mile Sab I've heard about. 1 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Oh before I forget, the Optima was a little short for the threads so I had to put three washers on each side. 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 You beat mine by just 11 miles! Well it was mine for a short time. I pulled it and shipped it to 84720FourWheel. It's still something to be proud of. Nothing like a 12 or 24 valve cummins though... Or that million mile Sab I've heard about. I didn't beat anything, I just pulled a few speedo clusters with trip meters on them, I like trip meters. I did buy a silver 1982 720 diesel with 325,000 miles on it, and I ran it up to 355,000 and sold it for $300.00 more than I bought it for. I have a 1980 outside that says it has 90,252 miles, that came out of a truck in the boring wrecking yard, it had 85,000 when I pulled it, that is the lowest one I ever seen before. 1 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I didn't beat anything, I just pulled a few speedo clusters with trip meters on them, I like trip meters. I did buy a silver 1982 720 diesel with 325,000 miles on it, and I ran it up to 355,000 and sold it for $300.00 more than I bought it for. I have a 1980 outside that says it has 90,252 miles, that came out of a truck in the boring wrecking yard, it had 85,000 when I pulled it, that is the lowest one I ever seen before. Before this old photo of mine right! Oh man I kind of miss that. I'm starring 43K in the face now! I'll put up an argument mine is still the lowest 1980 in the land, even with the 42K on it. I could be wrong, and it gains miles every week. I just love driving it! 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 You win, that is the lowest mileage I have ever seen to date. 2 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 So after all that new battery jive and what not, I then I thought I was good. I had to be after that right? Then the next day I'm out and about just loving how responsive and a great the Datsun is now driving. I'm completely content with the days work before, and of the big purchase of the Optima battery. Then I notice the temperature gauge. It was completely cold. Almost like the gauge didn't work. So I stopped when I could and pop the hood. "kachunk!" I check for loose connections and started to think about it. It didn't take long to realize that my thermostat must be stuck open. I go home and call my local O'Reillys to order what I need knowing that my truck usually requires one day to a week special order parts. The next day I get my new thermostat and gasket and the work begins. To know the situation more: In the last few months I have taken off and drained my coolant overflow tank more than a few times. I've done this because I can see little rusty sludge forming in the bottom. It's made me shudder thinking about what's rolling around in my coolant system. But each time I clean out the overflow tank and refill it with distilled water, the next time it was cleaner, and cleaner, and cleaner. But it was definitely overdue for a flush. Since I was changing the thermostat anyway, now was a good time. So I did. Lets break it down by photo: Hood propped, go time. I tried something new to drain the coolant (I didn't want to take it in to work on the lift.) I like being home close to a fridge with cold beverages while I work. So I used duct and black tape, a funnel, and a collapsable RV grey water tank to rig up something. Taped the funnel firm at the petcock drain and after removing, used my finger to control flow. (I had to remove a plate underneath were the funnel is going through.) 2 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 It worked outstanding! You just have to make sure the collapsable tank is deflated and kind of flat at first. So instead of trying to let air out past the flowing liquid and draining slow and messy, it fills the space smoothly and fast. You can see the plate I had to remove in the last photos background. 2 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Before I get to off track, here's the plugs I put in based off the 1980 Service Manuel. Old: New: 1 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Getting to the thermostat I see another of the previous mechanics "great jobs." I ABSOLUTLY hate RTV. To me it is the first sign of a half assed job by someone who doesn't understand some things relating to mechanics and how to seal metal. For me I do not understand, nor have ever came across, any job needing this messy stuff. It's a pain to remove and most people suck at using it (to much or just sloppy and everywhere.) However, I do know of some times RTV is called for by the manufacturer. Or those times when some gaskets just don't exist. But most of all, you never need RTV and a gasket together with good prepared clean surfaces! 2 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Found this little guy in the thermostat housing. It wasn't metal but hard, and broke apart like hard dried plastic. I'm pretty sure it's what made my thermostat stick open. 2 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 Cleaned up with the Dremel and an abrasive wheel. 2 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I also replaced some old coolant lines that I put on that we're to big and red. The didn't match and I was sick of looking at them. The biggest pain in the ass I've had working on this truck so far was replacing this hidden little coolant hose under the air filter housing. I missed this one previously. The old one had one heck of a kink in it and was way to big. I'm surprised it didn't leak. About the best I could get it (before sliding on the hose clamps.) Way better than before. (It looks oily everywhere because I had to use breakaway penetrator to help slide the hoses on.) 2 Quote Link to comment
Gradyfest Posted February 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 It got dark so this is the only finished job photo I have. I busted out all my Nissan OEM hose clamps on this job and used them everywhere I could. It looks better to the eye, and matches. Here's a photo of a new hose and the right clamp it would of came with. It was all a success! She warmed up just fine after letting it idle for a while. I'm excited to take it on the road in the morning. Fresh! 2 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted February 23, 2015 Report Share Posted February 23, 2015 I usually use the proper gasket if available, and use some copper spray to hold things in place/seal for thermostats. I think most 90s imports require rtv for the water necks. I know the Toyota 3vze does. So does the VG30. Perhaps the PO was used to working on those? 2 Quote Link to comment
KiloTango1200 Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Yellow top Optima. That's my choice too. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 Flush that nasty cooling system. Looking at all the rust you can tell some ran straight water. 50/50 distilled water and antifreeze. Be sure to flush the heater core at the same time. 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted February 24, 2015 Report Share Posted February 24, 2015 I would advise the water pump as well. It's going to be all rusty like everything else. Make sure you buy one with a cast impeller. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 25, 2015 Report Share Posted February 25, 2015 Hey Grady, you interested in buying these before I put them on the public market? If you are pm me to discuss details. 3 Quote Link to comment
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