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Forum newb and his 34K original miles '80 Datsun 720 4x4


Gradyfest

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It's a flare nut crowfoot (in case somebody didn't know.) This will actually be the first one in my tool kit. I'm actually looking for a set if the price is right. It seems most the sets end at 24mm, perfect. I might just get the one though. Before this I've never had a reason to need one...

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Thanks guys. I'm still hesitant on pulling the motor and have to fit the the time in. But while it's in the drive way I thought I'd fix the exhaust leak at the manifold. It's making it not fun to drive. I'm in the middle of pulling the intake and exhaust manifold bolts off right now. What a pain in the ass! Some of these bolts seem impossible. The 12mm swivel socket has been the hero of the day so far.

 

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On the hard to get to bottom bolts I use a 1/4" ratchet, 12" extension, and a 12mm swivel socket.

 

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I run the engine until it is warm and then I put the longest wrench I have on the nut and then I hit the wrench with a BFH!  If this does not work I cut the pipe so it can be welded back together.

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So while I wait on all that to come in the mail, I decided to fix my leaking valve cover gasket and do a cold valve lash adjustment while I was at it. I'm almost at 45K and figure it's about time anyways. I started educating myself on the subject here, and found this post most helpful:

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/35475-valve-cleance-on-l20b/?hl=%2Bengine+%2Bcold+%2Bvalve+%2Badjustment&do=findComment&comment=546337

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I then watched a YouTube video on it that I found by searching "Datsun valve lash," (this is the first valve clearance adjustment I've done.) But it's this page in the service manual that made things stress free though:

 

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It was weird when I got in their though. All my intakes were 0.006 and I couldn't even get my smallest feeler gauge that was the 0.006 in the exhausts! They were all way to tight. Now in my educating myself I read how a few guys did 0.008 intake and 0.010 exhaust cold but still had "chatter." I mulled that information over a little bit and decided to leave all the intakes alone at 0.006 and go ahead and set all the exhausts at 0.008, so that's what I did. It ran great before anyways and a little tight can't hurt right? Hell its got to better now anyways, since those exhaust valves were so tight. I couldn't believe it. The previous owners mechanic sucked and of course he put RTV on the valve cover gasket, why? I hate, hate, hate RTV. Cleaning it is never fun.

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The previous owners mechanic sucked and of course he put RTV on the valve cover gasket, why? I hate, hate, hate RTV. Cleaning it is never fun.

 

 

The PO of my 720 put RTV on the carb gasket and it still leaked. What a mess. Cleaned it up and got a new gasket for my 38 Weber and used a little Vasoline. Wa Laa, No leaks and clean as hell.

I replaced the cork and RTV semi-sealed valve cover gasket with a rubber one and a little Vasoline. Used a little RTV on the half circle insets as per the FSM and that took care of those leaks.

Took Dmike's advice and re-torqued the head bolts,needed it, and adjusted the valve clearance to FSM specs.

 

Changed oil to quality 40w to quiet timing chain tensioner. Yes, that works.

 

Idles smooth, clean, and quiet.

 

When I put my foot into it that 720. it roars to life and takes off like a bat outta hell. Love the low end torque!

 

Yeah, sure I'm only getting 18 mpg but I'm in 4x low  blasting over hill and hell's highway catching air every chance I get.

 

 

Thanks to all the Ratsun members and staff for the info to help me make my 720 a daily driver and a thrill to drive.

 

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

 

 

 

 

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