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Need Help No Spark from Ignition Coil Datsun 510


L16B

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I have a '69 Datsun 510 i cant seem to get a spark from the ignition coil i have read some forums on here to check to see if voltage goes into the ignition coil, but when i check with the test light it lights up on both sides. Is that possible? Also i have some wires that i dont know were they go, maybe someone can help me out thanks. Posted some pictures on imgur, link below. Which wire connectes to the dizzy?

 

http://imgur.com/a/TNC8K

 

 

 

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Take the distributor cap off. Check that the points are opening and closing when the engine is cranked. If old replace them and set the rubbing block on the points to the highest point of the distributor's cam and gap the points to about 0.021" or close. Check again that they close and open when turning.

 

 

What is this??? Where is this???  Yellow/White stripe is likely the water temp sender wire.

1Iugpkw.jpg

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Yes the points in the distributor are opening and closing when i crank the engine but i dont see a spark in them. Is there supposed to be one? I only have one connection outside of the distribuator that i am guessing connects to somewere on the ignition coil, but where? According to the pdf file i got it shows i am supposed to have some kind of relay that goes from there to the ignition coil, i dont see that relay anywere, i have seen people say its supposed to mount near the radiator, is it possible i had that relay missing or just my car didnt come with one, because on the pdf file it also shows in () usa model. Do you know if the wiring i have is set up right? by the picture two wires go to the ignition ballast and the blue one connects to one side of the ignition coil and black/green connects to the other.  Were does the other black one go to ? I will take some better pics and upload them to imgur again.

 

The yellow, and red/blue wires were by the front end drivers side close to were the radiator supposed to be, i thought that the yellow wire goes to the water temp but then were does the blue/red one go?

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The wire from the points goes to the negative terminal of the coil.

 

Power through the coil comes from two positions on the ignition switch. Start and Run.

 

Start:

Battery to ignition switch (start position) to coil positive through coil to coil negative to points to ground.

Run:

Battery to ignition switch (run position) to ballast resister, through ballast to coil positive through coil to coil negative to distributor points to ground

 

 

The start position goes directly to the coil around the ballast to give a full 12 volts to the coil when cranking for better spark strength. In the run position power goes through the ballast resister to reduce arcing and extend the life of the points.

 

 

Some distributors have two sets of points. One opens slightly later the the other one and by selecting one or the other, the timing can be advanced or retarded for emissions purposes.

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Just like mike said. Power goes from the resistor block (white ceramic thing) to the positive side of your coil. The negative side is your points. The one connection coming from the distributor goes to the negative side of your coil. With your test light check to see you have power to the positive side of the coil when the key is on. Find what wire goes from the distributor and connect it to the negative side if the coil. You should now have spark. If you do not have power to the resistor block the problem is in your wiring. Follow those wires back to find the problem.

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Yes i have power to the connecter when the key is in the on position. What color wire is supposed to go from the distrubator to the negative side of coil? If i dont have power still could it be the ignition coil?

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I have uploaded some pics. I connected a wire from the dizzy to the ignition coil and when i crank it it doesnt seem to create a spark, either i have the wiring incorrect or my ignition coil is bad. It does give a voltage out of the ballast when i tested it with a voltage tester.

 

http://imgur.com/a/X2X6X

 

The first picture shows how i have it connected currently without the dizzy wiring. The green/black wire goes to one side of the ignition coil, and the blue wire is connected to the other side of the ignition coil, then i ran a wire from the side with the blue connecter to the dizzy, is that the correct way of doing it? I have a extra long black wire and a short black wire were do they go?

 

Second picture just shows how i have a single connecter on my dizzy.

 

Third picture is the long black wire i am talking about, it comes out with the yellow wire, which Datsun mike said it goes to the water temp sender.

 

Four picture i know were most of those wires go, but not to sure were the red/blue wire goes?  This is located near the horn driver side

 

Five picture is a close up of the way i have the current wires set up from the igntion coil is this correct?

 

Last picture is of the dizzy itself inside, i was trying to figure out how to gap it to 0.021" or close . Do i cap it when the points open up the farthest out?

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Is it me? or are there no cam lobes on this dizzy?

 

B5XqS7d.jpg

 

There should be a wire from here...

C4GqFYz.jpg

 

to the negative side of the coil. Top one in this pic...

mXB6O6k.jpg

 

One side of the ballast should go to the other coil terminal (the one bottom one above) and the other side of the ballast to the power side of the ignition.

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Mike since this is a 69 Datsun it should be a single point dizzy but has the condenser inside so its a l20B dizzy with the boss on top of the lobes.

 

L16b this is simple.fix.

a blk white wire will go to the ballast then otherside of ballast will be a wire that goes to the coil.

There is also a Hot start wire that will be spliced under the tape. this will be blk/blu blk grn in the 70 above models. Im not positive on earlier cars.

 

 

yes the light will light up on both sides of the coil.

 

Most like you the condenser is shorted to ground or a wire touching or balk of key switch is loose(wiggle it and your not getting the spark on START

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The carb I put on my 72/510 had been sitting for a while.I had to put a new square o ring that seals the glass window on and a new pump part on it the rest seemed fine. I held off on doing the whole carb cause I wanted to drive her. I have a weber 32/36dgv I want to put on it so that will be the one I do a whole rebuild on later. If you can put the matchbox type distributor on you will be glad you did. Good luck.

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