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76 710 wagon


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Me and my girlfriend picked up a 1976 710 wagon about 2 weeks ago. its her second Datsun so far, she also has a 79 210 wagon. plans are to get it running and driving better then lower it a bit. it needs a few things but i'm still figuring out the quirks and such. i bought it from a young hippy lady in town and she said it had been in her family for 30+ years. it had alot of "work" done to it prior to me buying it. it has semi fresh paint that has some sags and runs. very little rust, its 3 speed auto sadly. i plan want to put my 5 speed in when my girlfriend feels comfortable driving a manual, because the auto just doesn't cut it for me or her honestly. im working on re-doing the horrid door panels and doing a rear bumper delete. if anyone has any input or advice on this thing it would be great, im not new to Datsuns, just 710's.

 

The day we got it

 

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inside shot

 

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engine bay

 

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i took the front bumper off for now, i just didn't like how chunky it was

 

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and i painted the grill black and put in some yellow lights i had

 

mms_picture_1.jpg

 

 

this is the horrible door panel

 

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this is how they look now

 

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and put some new rims on!

 

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The painted grill looks 10x better. I love the 710 wagons. Are there slim/jdm bumpers for them? It may just be the color, but taking off the bumper really makes it look pretty bare. Great find and good luck with the build

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Is the original vinyl underneath all of the psychedelic fabric?

 

It seems like quite a few 710 project threads have been started in the past few weeks - it's nice to see!

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Automatics a great survivors as they are hard to abuse.

 

A 280z, zx., 620, 810/Maxima 5 speed will fit without having to modify the driveshaft, this is the driveshaft I used in my goon for this.

 

Definitely needs to be a little lower. A 2" set of drop blocks on the back (maybe $20) and cut a coil off the front springs and a set of split collars ($20) will get it level and give a better ride and handling. Optionally, 280zx or Maxima struts will lower it and give you larger calipers and vented rotors.

 

If the front struts are original, don't replace them with insert shocks before reading my build thread. I replaced the front damper oil with thicker W20 to 'refresh' them. Way cheaper ($17) and as good, maybe better, as you can select the thickness of the oil.

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thanks for the advice mike, i will be reading your build thread now haha, i have a 5 speed longtail for a 79 pickup that will be getting swapped in eventually, ill need to source clutch/brake setup for a 710 or see how well a 620 or 510 pedal assembly will fit.

 

 

but in other news got a matchbox dizzy and a weber on it, im not sure if the weber helped or made it slower haha. but ill be starting to get everything for moar low today!

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You will need the matching matchbox coil for best spark performance. If using the stock coil for now beep the ballast resister.

 

The 79 620 transmission is ok, but that year used a wider ratio of gears that the previous two because a lower 4.11 rear end was used. First is 3.592 instead of 3.321 making first gear rev quickly and shifting at about three car lengths. It's fine, just saying you may notice this.

 

mms_picture_12.jpg

 

I think the blacked out grill was so well received because it harmonizes with the rims so well, nice.

 

I guess that long bump strip along the sides (real '70s look) was dealer installed, both mine have it, and unfortunately it's drilled and riveted on. My sedan's was removed and the holes welded up.... looks way better without.

 

710wheelswap002Large.jpg

 

Unlowered

74710with200sxrims001Large-1.jpg

 

Lowered

74710with200sxrimsLarge-1.jpg

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You will need the matching matchbox coil for best spark performance. If using the stock coil for now beep the ballast resister.

 

The 79 620 transmission is ok, but that year used a wider ratio of gears that the previous two because a lower 4.11 rear end was used. First is 3.592 instead of 3.321 making first gear rev quickly and shifting at about three car lengths. It's fine, just saying you may notice this.

 

mms_picture_12.jpg

 

I think the blacked out grill was so well received because it harmonizes with the rims so well, nice.

 

I guess that long bump strip along the sides (real '70s look) was dealer installed, both mine have it, and unfortunately it's drilled and riveted on. My sedan's was removed and the holes welded up.... looks way better without.

 

710wheelswap002Large.jpg

 

Unlowered

74710with200sxrims001Large-1.jpg

 

Lowered

74710with200sxrimsLarge-1.jpg

hey mike, i was looking through your build and could exactly find the strut dealio you mentioned, and to you have a link to those split collars, i know i found them once but i cant again for the life of me.. and i got the coil with the box so im good! and good to know about the 5 speed, i guess when the times comes ill use this 5 speed unless i find one of the other trannys you mentioned. and wow that trim removed looks GREAT, your 710s both look amazing!

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Here's some info on the strut mods... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page-5

 

Some more from the '74... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page-5

On the '74 I kept the stock strut and replaced the oil with ATF which is around 9W to 12W because my wife drives it and I wanted to see what the difference is. It's again, just fine, and at least as good as the original... but they only have 24K on them so not as noticeable. If I remove them again I will use 20W.   .

 

I ordered the split collars from Fastenall http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/34327?searchMode=productSearch&zipcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine=

 

1 5/8 to 2" are good for 6,200 pounds each. That's at least two and a half 710s on each strut. Just to be safe, once I got the height where I liked it I MIG'd a small weld on the strut below it so no way it can slip.

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Here's some info on the strut mods... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page-5

 

Some more from the '74... http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page-5

On the '74 I kept the stock strut and replaced the oil with ATF which is around 9W to 12W because my wife drives it and I wanted to see what the difference is. It's again, just fine, and at least as good as the original... but they only have 24K on them so not as noticeable. If I remove them again I will use 20W.   .

 

I ordered the split collars from Fastenall http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/34327?searchMode=productSearch&zipcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine=

 

1 5/8 to 2" are good for 6,200 pounds each. That's at least two and a half 710s on each strut. Just to be safe, once I got the height where I liked it I MIG'd a small weld on the strut below it so no way it can slip.

awesome mike! i really appreciate it! now to order the split collars and get some blocks!

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So got my blocks and split collars but I still need some 20w for the front. Im Thinkin motorcycle fork oil but not sure if its ideal.. But my turn signals went out, fuses are fine and so is the relay. Every other light works and so does every thing else on the fuse.. I tried searching but nothing helped. Emergency lights work fine and I tried switching relays. They both work fine..

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So got my blocks and split collars but I still need some 20w for the front. Im Thinkin motorcycle fork oil but not sure if its ideal.. But my turn signals went out, fuses are fine and so is the relay. Every other light works and so does every thing else on the fuse.. I tried searching but nothing helped. Emergency lights work fine and I tried switching relays. They both work fine..

I used hydraulic jack oil from Napa. Love the way mine rides.

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oh and of course the turn signals were a real treat, i had moved a relay from like poking out of the kick panel by the fuse block to the inside of the body behind the fuse block, but every time i would screw the fuse box in my signals would cut out, so i kept the car with the key on then got the turn signals working and to stay working while i got the fuse block in. i assume it was pinching the wire.. but who knows.. but my split collars arrive Monday so i expect to have it all lowered by Thursday night next week, then its on to the back bumper delete :thumbup:

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Mororcycle fork oil is full of anti foam and rust inhibiters because of the application in a bike. Jack oil won't need anti foam. You won't really be needing anti foam because there shouldn't be any air in them to foam anyway. Motorcycle oil is used because you can choose from an array of different weights. Motorcycle shocks can be 'tuned' by theor owner to get the ride they prefer. Jack oil or any hydraulic oil for excavators? may also come in different weights. Most are fairly thin and all will work. Thisker is harder to push through the same size orifice in the strut adding resistance and increasing firmness. Hydraulic oil is probably $5 a gallon so way cheaper. 

 

I used ATF in my other 710 and rides just fine.

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