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clutch problems


thatguy2014

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Hi I'm new to this sight I have a 1980 720. So the problem I'm having is the clutch isn't building pressure the slave wont move ant the pedal don't get any stiffer, so my question is what do you guys think I should replace first, and my second question is how hard would it be to convert it to a cable clutch or is it even possible.

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Look in the clutch master.. does it have fluid in it or is it dry?????

 

If low or empty fill it up. Now have someone pump the pedal several times and hold down. Loosen the bleeder screw on the slave and let fluid and air bubbles out. Close the bleeder. Let the pedal up. Press the pedal down and hold. Open bleeder and let air and fluid out. close bleeder. Let pedal up. Repeat until only clear fluid comes out , maybe 6 to 8 tries. Check the master often and refill, do NOT let it run out of fluid. 

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Even easier: most of those stores will let you search by vehicle on their websites.  Just go to, say, PepBoys.com, enter in your truck year (note that if it's after 1983, it's a Nissan.  Before 1983, it's a Datsun) and model info.  Then you should be able to search for the part.  Worst case, RockAuto.com is your friend.

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Look in the clutch master.. does it have fluid in it or is it dry?????

 

If low or empty fill it up. Now have someone pump the pedal several times and hold down. Loosen the bleeder screw on the slave and let fluid and air bubbles out. Close the bleeder. Let the pedal up. Press the pedal down and hold. Open bleeder and let air and fluid out. close bleeder. Let pedal up. Repeat until only clear fluid comes out , maybe 6 to 8 tries. Check the master often and refill, do NOT let it run out of fluid.

I made sure it was full and I keep checking it it bubbles bout after a half hour of doing it nothing

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I made sure it was full and I keep checking it it bubbles bout after a half hour of doing it nothing

 

This sounds like you started off bleeding the wheels.  You need to bleed the proportioning valve first.  I know on my truck, it's under the passenger seat, on the inside of the frame rail.  I had tried to bleed just the wheels before and it didn't work out very well.  The purpose of the proportioning valve is to keep the rear wheels from locking up under hard braking, and so it has the ability to prevent pressure from getting to the rear wheel cylinders.

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