mcordero8 Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Nice setup right next to the AC. I wish my wife would let me do that. Quote Link to comment
5t341tH Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Gotta keep cool while rebuilding it huh Quote Link to comment
hvyd Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Thank god I have a garage. Good luck with your rebuild. Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted July 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2014 Picture heavy post here :D Got it mostly tore down, never tore into a nissan/datsun engine, but im noticing stampings on the pistons and block/head mating surface, pistons are marked as follows, Block stampings are 3,3,3,4 and the pistons are u2 3, u2 3, u2 3, and u3 4. Cylinder walls look decent, only on 3 i see a distinct oil ring stain from sitting, and cyl 1 and 4 show a very very light low spot. Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted July 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2014 So I checked my clearance on my rings... my service manual says .0009-.0157. My actual gap is .039-.042. Looks like somebody was in there and did a half ass job. Now to find pistons and rings that will correct that issue. Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted July 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 So. I checked around and did some shopping. Its not feasable to rebuild this block. I got a line on a rebuildable 1.8. Can I use all my bolt ons from my L20 head pan ect. Onto the L18? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 It doesn't come from the factory like that, someone has 're-built' it in the past. #3 is loosing oil. Measure the bore width it may have been over sized or it may be oval, or tapered. Best would be to over bore to the next over size piston and replace them. It will cost the same to rebuild an L18 as an L20B and it makes about 10 less hp and torque. Stick with the L20B. Yes everything will swap to the L18 but the clutch and flywheel, and the exhaust manifold.... again stick with what you have. I had my Z22 block over bored for only $25 per hole. Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted July 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Local machine shop charges 30 per hole. Plus 40 for deck plus 150 for them to get .40 pistons and rings. That's over 310.00 after taxes. Plus getting the crank done and bearings ect. Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Block is going to be dropped off at the machine shop monday to get bored and get the new pistons/rings matched to it. Yay, progress! Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted July 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Block and head are at the machine shop. Dropped them off on Thursday. Should hear back in a week or 2. In the meantime I rebuilt the Hitachi Carb and got the new water pump. Is there a way to get the fan clutch part off the water pumps? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 The clutch fan and pump are integral. Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted July 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Is there any way to remove it? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 It's pressed on and not intended to be removed. You could cut it off or take the front off it and press it out. No way to put it back. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 Head to the junkyard and find an early Z car without a fan clutch. Buy the fan and the pulley. Then pick up a new water pump for an early Z car. You have now successfully removed your crappy fan clutch :) 2 Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 I want to put an electric fan on it instead of a clutch fan. But the fans i have wont fit due to trans cooler, and the clutch. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 You can cut the fan off. Just stay away from the pulley it's also pressed on and will come off if you cut beside it. Unscrew the clutch fan and remove the front cover, drain the oil and use an angle grinder with a cut off blade to score the aluminum and pull apart. Trim the bearing off. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 I wrote a mod for running electric fan on an L20B setup same applies to yours. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/15038-l-motor-electric-fan-water-pump-mod/ 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 most times the cranks just need a polish and stock size bearings. olddatsuns.com tech section is good Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 I want to put an electric fan on it instead of a clutch fan. But the fans i have wont fit due to trans cooler, and the clutch. Volvo fan fit's in front, this is the same orientation that the Volvo uses. You can just unbolt the fan from the clutch and leave the clutch on the water pump. 1 Quote Link to comment
gene knight Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 welcome to ratsun. Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 Engine is still at the machine shop, the head is ready for pickup, and they just got the block cleaned last night, today they are measuring the bores to see where we stand on rings/pistons. I took some photos of why i cant mount the fan in the front of the radiator like some have said, there is an aftermarket? transmission cooler held on with wire that sits right in front of my radiator.... Id like that to go away, maybe find a radiator that has the trans cooler built in. Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2014 On a side note, a friend of mine showed me his 620 but he has a ton of crank case pressure, is there a way to run a header on this and if so where do you run the crank case vent to instead of blocking it off. Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted August 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Got the engine and head back this morning. Waiting on freeze plugs rear main seal set and rings to come in. Time to think of a color to paint the block to work with the orange color of the truck. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment
Scoobs Posted August 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2014 Ok, i now have all the parts to put it together, i have it sitting here back on the stand, just finished the freeze plugs and i set the crank in, now on the rear main seal, it has the regular oil seal, and the bearing cap has these groves on each side for the rubber inserts with the metal "shims" Does anyone have any information on how those go in there? Thats where im stopping till i figure that out, since my chiltons manual is dumb and just says how to install the big seal.... Quote Link to comment
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