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Master Cylinder Recommended for 280zx front and Maxima rear?


Datzun510

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The 3/4 is the stock master correct?

 

If I was to keep the stock master then I need to remove the "Residual Valves" so my rear brakes won’t be rubbing?

(According to tread: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/38410-master-cyllinder-change-for-disk-brakes-swap/ )

 

-ggzila... on the same tread you advised to:

You should do either:

* swap in an all-discs Master Cylinder

OR

* remove the Residual Valve(s) from the master cylinder.

 

-- is there another master cylinder from another vehicle that is 3/4 but has 4 disk-brakes that you are recommending?

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Stiff pedal is OK. A pedal so hard you can't do a panic stop is dangerous.

YES!!!! and that's why I want to go with the best application.. that's why upgraded my fronts to 280zx and rear to maxima rotors.. but now I'm looking for the best master but wont drain my wallet... so if I have to get a booster then I will...

 

-Datzenmike- Recommended "A 620 or B-210 booster" so if I was to get either/or what Master would be the recommended one to bolt up to this? The stock master? the one from a 200sx? or the one from a 280zx?

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I have ZX fronts and Maxima rear disks also and using the ZX 15/16 master and in reality it works pretty good I think. I can easily lock'm up and the stopping advantage is great. But the price for a new 15/16" master is pretty steep. Troy Ermish has 7/8" masters for 4 wheel disks that those using them say work really well for about $115. From what I understand a 3/4 master though it will work gives a spongy pedal feel, but to each their own right?

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  • 6 months later...

But does it have the 620 booster?

No booster Mike, just the 15/16 MC and the stock 510 rod. I don't want to use a booster. Mind you even the brake hardlines are stock. I have read in the past that the pushrod needed to be changed. Was that just for using a booster or does that include no booster?

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