L16 issues

[ggzilla]

 

 

Looks great, worth fixing it!

[Spawn]

WOW!!!!  Very nice looking truck.

 

Now just start tearing into that engine.

 

Your fender badges are the wrong ones.  Try and find the Datsun1600 ones.  Probably changed when it was painted

 

 

Looks great, worth fixing it!

 

Thanks guys!  It's definitely pretty good as far as bodies and finish.  The interior isn't too bad either (although the dash could use replacing).  This is why it's been so hard trying to patiently wait for an engine to come available around here.  Once I manage to get it running (if I do), there are still a few things here and there that need some work, but I know that it would be a decent truck if I can bring it back to life.

[ggzilla]

Go with the $1500 rebuilt engine. Get that truck on the road!

[Spawn]

Go with the $1500 rebuilt engine. Get that truck on the road!

But from my understanding I would need to get a new bellhousing or something to be able to go from my L16 4 speed (5 bolt mounting) to the L20B (6 bolt mounting) with the same 4 speed, as well as a larger flywheel and clutch with a throwout bearing collar as dr.feltersnatch stated.  Is there anything else that I would need?  Is there anybody else who has done this engine swap from L16 to L20B that can provide some further input?

 

Right now my plan is to start to tear the top of the engine off on Sunday, unless I can manage to grab some tools from a buddy and start breaking into it after work for the next few days.  I know that the valve cover requires a 10mm socket, what about the rest of the items in order to be able to pull off the head?  Am I just better off grabbing a whole socket set from my friend, or just grabbing the necessary sizes and such from him?

[ggzilla]

Borrow a whole set of tools

 

And more importantly, get a L-series head tool before you start.

[Spawn]

Ok, I'll bite due to my ignorance.  What's an L-series head tool?

[dr.feltersnatch]

I think he is meaning the tool that holds the timing chain. I found the best thing is a piece of 1 inch dia like 8 inch long pvc pipe. And can usually be found free!

[banzai510(hainz)]

amazon had them Datsun L series timming chain tool

[windowless66]

Great looking 620! Glad you've gotten it home, I can see why you don't want to give up on it :)  

With the L-series head tool if you don't end up buying one you can make a wedge from a piece of timber  

Width top - 65mm 

Width bottom - 30mm 

Length - 120mm 

Thickness - 20mm

 

I just did my first head gasket the other day and that's all I used and it worked fine. I found a 20mm thick decking board and cut it from that and knocked it in pretty firmly. If you don't use either the tool or some kind of wedge, the timing chain tensioner will pop out when you remove the cam sprocket and you'll have to strip the front of the engine to get at it. 

[windowless66]

I watched this had some pretty handy info at the start for what you need. Just get the info you need from it :) You wont have to do the rest if your tensioner stays put.

[datzenmike]

 

[Spawn]

Ok, I got myself one of the blue Powerbuilt Timing Chain Holding Wedges and have managed to finally break the valve cover free from the cylinder head (silicone gasket or seal was stuck on there tight).  I had to use a utility knife to cut into the seal and try to free the pieces from each other, then up to a 5-in-1 scraper to open up the area I was able to free with the knife and then pry it up with a flat blade screwdriver.  I'm hoping that this isn't that normal, as it was a pain to do (even had the houseman at the hotel helping me out trying to provide some leverage on the valve cover with the bolts removed to try and get the knife into the seal).

I'm trying to figure out exactly how to get all of the intake manifold and whatnot off of the engine.  I have been trying to separate all of the hoses and such from the carburetor so that I can pull the intake off and move it, but I'm kind of stuck on one hose that comes from around the front of the engine to the bottom of the carburetor.  I have loosened both hose clamps (it's a short 3 inch piece of hose, maybe a 1/4" ID) but I can't for the life of me pry the hose loose from either end.  I don't want to cut the hose, but may end up having to do so, unless anybody has some thoughts?  I may see if I can get a pair of pliers or vise grips to put on there and pry the hose off, but the needle-nose pliers I had access to didn't seem to have much affect.

Additionally, I loosened off the 4 intake manifold bolts along the top of the intake runners, but it looks like the exhaust manifold bolts also help to hold the bottom of the intake manifold in.  Is this right, or am I just seeing it incorrectly?  They look like they have larger washers on them and the washers go over the edge of the intake manifold casting (at least that's what it looks like to me).

[dr.feltersnatch]

You are seeing it correct. And in my opinion those bolts are the hardest part of the whole job.

[Spawn]

You are seeing it correct. And in my opinion those bolts are the hardest part of the whole job.

 

So then I definitely need to remove the bolts holding the exhaust manifold on before I can pull the intake manifold off, yes?  Or do the bolts holding the exhaust manifold on just have large washers to allow the lower edge of the intake manifold to have something to rest on and pull it in when tightening up the exhaust manifold bolts?

[dr.feltersnatch]

The second one lol. And its easier said than done. It would be easy if you broke your arm in 3 places, Maybe then you could reach them!

[banzai510(hainz)]

use a extention with 12mm socket with the EZ to get lower ones.

 

I also use a box end flip it and get my hand under the exhaust manifold and loosen a tiny bit at a time.

 

This is siple with the early L motors. later L20s are a bitch to get those. Most extensions ans swivel ends. But putting them back in can lead to stripped holes.

[Spawn]

use a extention with 12mm socket with the EZ to get lower ones.

 

I also use a box end flip it and get my hand under the exhaust manifold and loosen a tiny bit at a time.

 

This is siple with the early L motors. later L20s are a bitch to get those. Most extensions ans swivel ends. But putting them back in can lead to stripped holes

 

Hainz,

I have a 12mm socket and a 3 inch extension, but I'm not sure what the EZ is that you're talking about.  As for the box end wrench, are you saying to climb under the motor, or you can reach it from around and underneath the exhaust manifold?  I'm going to guess it's the latter, and that by reaching down and under the exhaust manifold you are able to use the box end that way.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions for freeing that one hose up to be able to remove the intake manifold?  I'm not sure if there are any other things that need to be pulled off in order to freely remove the intake manifold, but that looked like it was probably the last hose attached to the carb that I have to break free.  Then the rest looks like it's just bolts holding the manifold and carb onto the cylinder head.

[ggzilla]

Cut the hose. It costs less than $2 at oreillys or NAPA.

[windowless66]

Did you get it all sorted? What was the damage?

[Spawn]

Hi windowless, unfortunately I haven't gotten any of it sorted out.  I bought a second 620, this time a '77 with a long bed, and it's been running strong so far which has kinda put the '72 on the back burner.  I'm still searching for a KA or SR dual cam to throw into the truck as I managed to get a set of Redeye's engine mounts, but I haven't found one yet that's in decent shape for not too much cash.

[windowless66]

Very nice! I'm a bit biased but I prefer the long beds ;)

[flatcat19]

This thread confuses me.