Hooligan Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Ok... this has never given me problems before but I am at a complete loss. 73' Datsun 610 - L18. Car had been sitting for a while before it was in my hands. All stock though when I brought her home. So... I pulled the Weber 32/36 from my truck (which was running fine) so we can eliminate a carb issue. I picked up a matchbox Dizzy with ped mount from another member. I also eliminated the resistor so the white/black wire is hooked to the positive side of coil. The 2 wires from the matchbox are also wired directly to the coil. (I will say the coil is not a match to the matchbox itself rather than the stock coil) this was just temporary to get her running. So.... carb and Matcbox are in Now.... with the cam at TDC 10 and 2, the rotor was pointed inbetween 1 and 3 which under my assumption meant the ped mount was incorrect. Swapped mounts to one that would allow me make sure the rotor was at 1. Dizzy shaft is at the 11:28 position with the small side facing forward. Clockwise is now 1-2-4-3. New plugs, new wires, car will crank but with no attempt to start. No sputter, no pop... nothing. Checking the spark it seems weak to me but its there. What am I missing? Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Firing order is 1 3 4 2,dont know if you typed that wrong or what Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Do you actually have spark? I'd check that, and yes firing order is 1342, counter clockwise. Quote Link to comment
Hooligan Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Wouldn't 1-3-4-2 counterclockwise be the same as 1-2-4-3 clockwise? I will check the spark again and go back through everything Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 I also eliminated the resistor so the white/black wire is hooked to the positive side of coil. The 2 wires from the matchbox are also wired directly to the coil. Do you have the other wire hooked to the coil +? There should be two stock wires attached to the coil once you eliminate the ballast resistor. Also double check you wired the matchbox correctly (B to +, C to -). Quote Link to comment
Hooligan Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Yes with the ballast resistor removed I have 2 factory wires at the + post along with the Matchbox wire too Quote Link to comment
hobbes_the_cat Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Did you check here? http://olddatsuns.com/ The 73 l18 has the dizzy clocked different that all the others from the factory. Maybe that has something to do with it? Also I'm pretty sure that pedestal was correct. The guy I got it from drove the car home that way. I bought the project in pieces and that was the only dizzy that came with it and that pedestal was attached. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 I'm with everyone else. Do you have spark? Timed properly or not-is there spark? Valve cover off. Properly set? 1 Quote Link to comment
Hooligan Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Not sure Jeff... I know with the car at TDC and everything correct. With the pedestal in the rotor was pointing halfway between 1 and 3 Quote Link to comment
Hooligan Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Yes there is spark Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Confirm you are at TDC compression on #1. Is rotor still between wires on the cap? If so... Remove dizzy and drop the oil pump and turn the drive spindle ahead or back (doesn't matter which way) a couple of teeth. Slip the oil pump back in with one bolt just to hold it. Install dizzy. Is the rotor beneath any plug wire on the cap? If not, drop oil pump and re-position spindle. Is rotor under a wire on the cap now? If yes.... Fully mount the oil pump and torque the bolts. It does not matter which wire the rotor is pointing to because this one now becomes #1, so move the #1 wire here and arrange the others 3 4 2 counter clockwise. Good to go. 1 Quote Link to comment
Hooligan Posted April 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Ill drop the pump tomorrow and go back through everything just to make sure I didn't miss anything Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 If you had the IGN key on for five minutes the coil has likely overheated makes sense for the weak spark. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 does this kill a coil? ^^^^^^ Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 It does if the coil requires a Ballast Resistor but you hook it up to 12V straight. Quote Link to comment
Driftease Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Only on a points system will it burn up the coil, in a transistor igniter the coil is only pulled low (grounded) when the input of the transistor gets a signal which can only happen while cranking or running which will save a coil from burning up. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Yup. There is no draw with just the key on. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 It does if the coil requires a Ballast Resistor but you hook it up to 12V straight. That was going to be my suggestion/ question. If need be I have the original coil out of the 620 with the resistor and everything. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Another thought, fuel pump? Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 He said it was getting fuel and spark. Now its down to compression and enough spark at the right time. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 when using a matchbox set up with stock point coil and ballast just hook up B of matchbox to the blk/wht wire at the ballas inputt. leave the hot start wire hooked up also. or buy a 79 coil always ck the valve lash on a motor you just got. why drop the pump? you said its lined up on the spindal. But you said its between 1&3. get so its on #1 and in the middle of the timming plate so you have room for adjustment. then maybe you have to realighn the spindal or find the correct pedestal. should have started it with the point system first(its EZ) 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 He said it was getting fuel and spark. Now its down to compression and enough spark at the right time. He said there isn't a carb issue, that doesn't mean the good carb isn't getting fuel to it Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 I guess he said that on facebook, but he did say its getting fuel. He also did say he tried points dizzy with the same outcome. Quote Link to comment
Hooligan Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 Welllll...... double checked and the engine has spark. Valves are adjusted... then, well then.... did a compression test. Cylinder 1 - 192, Cylinder 2 - 155, Cylinder 3 -122, and Cylinder 4 - 145 Quote Link to comment
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