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What am I overlooking?


Hooligan

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Ok... this has never given me problems before but I am at a complete loss.

 

73' Datsun 610 - L18. Car had been sitting for a while before it was in my hands. All stock though when I brought her home. So... I pulled the Weber 32/36 from my truck (which was running fine) so we can eliminate a carb issue. I picked up a matchbox Dizzy with ped mount from another member. I also eliminated the resistor so the white/black wire is hooked to the positive side of coil. The 2 wires from the matchbox are also wired directly to the coil. (I will say the coil is not a match to the matchbox itself rather than the stock coil) this was just temporary to get her running. So.... carb and Matcbox are in

 

Now.... with the cam at TDC 10 and 2, the rotor was pointed inbetween 1 and 3 which under my assumption meant the ped mount was incorrect. Swapped mounts to one that would allow me make sure the rotor was at 1. Dizzy shaft is at the 11:28 position with the small side facing forward. Clockwise is now 1-2-4-3. New plugs, new wires, car will crank but with no attempt to start. No sputter, no pop... nothing. Checking the spark it seems weak to me but its there.

 

What am I missing?

 

 

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I also eliminated the resistor so the white/black wire is hooked to the positive side of coil. The 2 wires from the matchbox are also wired directly to the coil. 

 

Do you have the other wire hooked to the coil +? There should be two stock wires attached to the coil once you eliminate the ballast resistor. 

 

Also double check you wired the matchbox correctly (B to +, C to -). 

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Did you check here? http://olddatsuns.com/

 

The 73 l18 has the dizzy clocked different that all the others from the factory. Maybe that has something to do with it? Also I'm pretty sure that pedestal was correct. The guy I got it from drove the car home that way. I bought the project in pieces and that was the only dizzy that came with it and that pedestal was attached.

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Confirm you are at TDC compression on #1.

 

Is rotor still between wires on the cap? If so...

 

 

Remove dizzy and drop the oil pump and turn the drive spindle ahead or back (doesn't matter which way) a couple of teeth. Slip the oil pump back in with one bolt just to hold it. Install dizzy. Is the rotor beneath any plug wire on the cap? If not, drop oil pump and re-position spindle. Is rotor under a wire on the cap now? If yes....

 

Fully mount the oil pump and torque the bolts.

 

It does not matter which wire the rotor is pointing to because this one now becomes #1, so move the #1 wire here and arrange the others 3 4 2 counter clockwise. Good to go.

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Only on a points system will it burn up the coil, in a transistor igniter the coil is only pulled low (grounded) when the input of the transistor gets a signal which can only happen while cranking or running which will save a coil from burning up.

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when using a matchbox set up with stock point coil and ballast just hook up B of matchbox to the blk/wht wire at the ballas inputt.  leave the hot start wire hooked up also.

 

or buy a 79 coil

 

always ck the valve lash on a motor you just got.

 

 

why drop the pump? you said its lined up on the spindal.  But you said its between 1&3.  get so its on #1 and in the middle of the timming plate so you have room for adjustment. then maybe you have to realighn the spindal or find the correct pedestal.

 

should have started it with the point system first(its EZ)

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