Building new motor for my goon, any ideas?

[Tallsauce7]

I have a 72 goon and have built a motor for it a couple years ago but I'm anxious to build another one. I currently have an l20b bored 1mm over,280zx flat tops pistons, port and polished offenhauser intake manifold and port and polished u67 head, mild rv 2 cam, matchbox dizzy, crank scraper, 280zx turbo oil pump(better flow) aluminum 3 core radiator....fully adjustable coil overs all around and 4 linked. Like I said I want to build another motor with good power! I don't mind mixing race gas. I have a couple ideas so far but just looking for any suggestions. Thanks guys

[datzenmike]

Well that L20B sound good so maybe time to move up to a KA build. There's tons of parts and after market support. If thinking of replacing the L20B with it the swap is well documented into 510 and other cars. The KA comes in single and dual cam and makes around 150 at the engine so roughly 50% more than the L and can make lots more.

[Tallsauce7]

At first I was thinking a KA but I am concerned about the time to swap everything over being such a huge motor compared to the l series. How hard is swapping everything, especially all the electronics?

[banzai510(hainz)]

THIS WILL BE LONGER THAN A MONTH & ABOUT 3K$ FOR ADDED STUFF THAT ONE SHOOULD UPGRADE WHILE ITS OUT.

Radiator,clutch Highpressure fuel pump. motor mounts, exhaust redone from motor side. Can am box

 

. THIS IS NOT 1 DAY SWAP.

[TENDRIL]

If you gather EVERYTHING you need to do the swap, a guy recently did the swap in a weekend (claimed)

 

 

That l20b sounds bad ass tho!! You could go LZ If you want to stay stock looking. But I would go KA if you want more power

[banzai510(hainz)]

bolt some 40mm sidedrafts and just drive it. You only have 2 post and we dont know your ability on mechanics.

These cars take a few years to know.

[Tallsauce7]

Awesome guys thanks. I think I have came to the conclusion just to slap some side drafts on and maybe a shorty header. Especially cuz I already have the intake manifold for the carbs.

[datzenmike]

 

The only advantage to a header is saving a little weight. Nissan spent a lot of time and money perfecting the L16/18 exhaust manifold. It's a cast iron header, and it will.... last forever not a few years, does not leak, runs cooler, perfect fit, quieter, never comes loose and best of all it's already on your car!!!

[Tallsauce7]

Yeah I've nothing but good things about the stock mani, but in my dads 521 it seemed like it gave it more torque. And it's defiantly looks prettier.

[TENDRIL]

buy two headers and in a year be ready to swap em' out

 

 

 

stick wit stock 

[banzai510(hainz)]

but in my dads 521 it seemed like it gave it more torque

 

521s have low gear ratio thaTS WHY IT SEEMS MORE TORQ. esp if a l20 in there

[Tallsauce7]

Oh interesting. It does have a l20...well Frankenstein that's had a ton of work with very short rear gears.

[Twodoordime]

THIS WILL BE LONGER THAN A MONTH & ABOUT 3K$ FOR ADDED STUFF THAT ONE SHOOULD UPGRADE WHILE ITS OUT.

Radiator,clutch Highpressure fuel pump. motor mounts, exhaust redone from motor side. Can am box

 

. THIS IS NOT 1 DAY SWAP.

 

It can be done for way cheaper. I had under 600 into my full ka24de swap and I daily drove it for around 2 years before selling the car. It also only took 2 weekends or so doing it all myself. I paid 300 for my COMPLETE ka swap, 100 for driveshaft, 60 for wiring materials, modified the engine xmember myself, made the trans crossmember myself, 40 to have the radiator inlet swapped, 20 for fan controller, 30 for ebay fan, and 10 for an alum intake off craigslist that I cut in 1/3 and used. I welded my old 2.25" exhaust piping to stock ka24de downpipe and that was it. If you have a welder its really an easy swap.

 

For minor crap like radiator hoses I used what I had laying around. Cut up integra lower rad hose and I used an inline pump from a volvo (free from junkyard) with factory 510 fuel tank and hard lines I bent myself (bought the hard lines from autozone for like 20 I think).