mtngoat Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 With my battle with fuel and ignition finally approaching a decent resolution, it's time to turn my attention to something I've never messed with much, other than inevitable interactions when removing something like a strut or lower arm. And that something is the front suspension. At 400k mile miles including many many miles of epic beatings on dirt roads aplenty, I figure hey, maybe something is worn out up there. The faint clunk when I turn left is one sign. The wandering on a perfect stretch of brand new pavement on the interstate, yet another. I know I want to install the steering box brace, and I'm reading up on the steering box swaps as well. But beyond that...what should I simply assume is shot, if anything, and what can I test? Wiggle the ball joints at the tie rod ends? What about that bushing thingy thats around the big bolts coming off the crossmember and holds the steering bar stuff? The T/C rod bushings? Opinions welcome. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Icehouse and frank put all new Moog stuff up front then I ordered a T3 TC rods which also helped. then went got it alighed. a;lso adjustable A arms But I don't then those were really needed also steering box was fine. I do have a Datsport steering brace Baz sent me but I think its not all that. koni shocks and 180# 6inch springs Quote Link to comment
mtngoat Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 I got a copy of the parts diagram for the front suspension online, I'll sit down with it and see how much of it Rockauto carries. Moog is good? Not sure what i'll do about shocks yet, I need pretty beefy ones for the rear, when you add a heavy load and a rocky road they get a good workout. Remember, this car is raised, not lowered! The exact opposite of most other modified rigs except rally cars. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 I just replaced my radius rod bushings, LCA bushings, tie rods....and tightened up the steering box. All Moog...made in Japan...good stuff Quote Link to comment
mtngoat Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 There are some interesting ideas here... http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/restoring-a-1968-datsun-510-sedan-part-2.html I'd thought about the Experimental engineering T/C rod stuff, but in earlier discussions I was advised they're lacking in compliance and with my rally like use, I'd probably simply snap off the T/C rod. That link shows a super wicked setup replacing the T/C rod.... I want to find out what it's like to drive a car that doesn't wander, doesn't have steering that's anesthetized, and doesn't clunk with each left turn! Quote Link to comment
mtngoat Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Did some parts looking last night, there's a surprising amount of stuff out there still. I'm thinking I'll do the lower control bushings, the idler arm bushing (or just replace?), the steering brace, and then with them tight I can wiggle other stuff and see what else I can find. anyone have a recommendation for strut inserts for a stock front end which can take a pounding? I read about the old rally suspension setup, that sounded pretty cool but I bet they're impossible to find and beat to hell anyway. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 One thing you may want to try is lowering your steering pickup points on your X-member. I built a Baja 510 with some friends and we did that by cutting out the pickup housing, lowering it until it rested on the bottom plate of the member, and welding it back in with a 3/16' plate. We did much the same thing to the rear X-member trailing are pickups. It only got us 1 1/2". Although it didn't make a huge difference on the overall ride hight, it definitely improved what it could soak up. Another thing you can do to your metal parts, arms, rods and such, you can cryo-strengthen them for added insurance. Check with the lab that's doing it, tell them what you're doing with the parts, and they can harden the metal just enough so it doesn't become brittle. Best of luck, and may the Deathmobile go another 400K Quote Link to comment
mtngoat Posted September 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Ok I'm moving forward with a few items....when I look at the ball joints on rockauto, they say 11mm or 14mm bolt sizes. which bolt are they talking about? They don't show any strut cartridges at all, i found some tokicos at another site for 86 bucks a pop. However, when I read about the differing compressed lengths it has me worried about getting the right ones. Quote Link to comment
mtngoat Posted September 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Whisky Tango Foxtrot?! Hard to find inserts. Tons of options for the rear...none for the front! Datsuns are legos....which other models strut cartridges will fit? Quote Link to comment
mtngoat Posted September 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 ok finally found these, using a different search engine Quote Link to comment
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