engine problem

[old skool too cool]

whats up I have the 1600 ohc in m 67 520. Ok so prior to this engine was running great. Now engine wont turn over. In attempting to turn her over I heard a loud pop. First one was loudest tried again a few times and I heard a few more pops coming from around the header area or valve cover. Now I still haven't checked compression or checked m spark since I don't have tools for that. Hoping its not a blown head or cracked block. Now with that being said id love some thoughts on what it is.

[monkbonk]

Plug wires in wrong order is my first venture

[dr.feltersnatch]

Wires wont switch themselves. I vote points are toast.

It doesnt take special tools to check for spark.

[dr.feltersnatch]

Also check to be sure you have gas. Take the aircleaner cover off amd have some one step on the gas as you look down the carb. It should squirt gas down the hole.

[datzenmike]

Won't turn over. Is often misused. If it won't turn over is is seized or battery dead. Usually it does turn over... it just does not start. So just say wont start.

 

You need spark and fuel.

 

Check for spark by placing an old plug in any plug wire and lay on grounded surface. Crank the motor over. Is there a visible spark on all 4 wires? YES... go to fuel.

 

Check for fuel by looking at the sight glass on front of carb. It should be filled to the full line.

[old skool too cool]

alright so after this not firing I had an electrical problem. When I tried to start nothing. Lights worked all that it was something from the ignition to the harness under hood. A electronic engineer actually hooked me up and re set my ignition for free. He owned a stereo shop and I figured that would be the spot were they knew aboubt wiring turns out the guy is a genius and hooked it up. Now I can hear a click. Turns out it wasn't getting juice to the relay were all the ignition controls branch from. So I checked my coil turns out it was bad.(will place proper ohm readings soon for coil) Replaced coil. Nothing, so I started it with a screw driver from the solenoid to the power wire it would turn but not fire. SO I know my solenoid is out or bad. Starter is good. Now the problem of not firing, I am thinking to change the points condenser. I have never done this before so I will see if this fixes my problem of not firing.

[old skool too cool]

also I am getting gas when manually cranking car gas does shoot out of main fuel line into carb.

[ggzilla]

Does it have spark?

[banzai510(hainz)]

how you know coil was bad?

 

as above you get spark with center coil wire placed near ground.(but your selinoid is bad so hard to crank car.

 

You have volt meter? measure voltage at the coil.

 

change points? look up on You tube

[dr.feltersnatch]

You dont know your solenoid is out or bad you just know its not working. Now is it because it is bad or the wiring going to it is bad? the condenser is not bad so dont waste your money. The coil is probably good as well. Lets go through one step at a time and we will get this running. Step 1 do you have a repair manual? If not pm me your email address I am pretty sure I have a pdf i can send you. Step 2 do you have a voltage meter? If not go buy one, you should be able to find one for under $20. Report back when you have one.

[datzenmike]

Get a $5 test lamp. This will tell you if invisible electricity is present on a wire or not.

 

Do not buy more parts. As stated the coils almost never go bad. A more likely cause are the points are worn out.

[MikeRL411]

Get a $5 test lamp. This will tell you if invisible electricity is present on a wire or not.

 

Do not buy more parts. As stated the coils almost never go bad. A more likely cause are the points are worn out.

 

Or the capacitor has shorted out which would weld the points.  Pull the distributor cap and take a look.  Point sets and bypass capacitors are inexpensive.  If your local distributor doesn't know how to spell "DATSUN" have the dummy look up the "Buick OPEL" from Japan {Isuzu}.  Same point and capacitor set.

[old skool too cool]

ok so this is what autozone told me the readings I was suppose to get.

Primary 1.2 Ω - 2.0 Ω

Secondary 6.30k Ω - 11.70k Ω

 

the readings with my coil.

primary 0.6 Ω

secondary 15.7k Ω

so is this not a bad coil?

 

Ignition wiring is newly wired properly. I can hear a click at first relay. Assuming solenoid is out since it will turn if I directly put current from solenoid to main power wire. But that still wont turn so could it be points? that's what I will try next. Any tips to make sure if solenoid is not working. Solenoid and coil are originals.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Im thinkging coil is still good myself.

Just depends on quality of meter your getting your readings.

 

one can ck ez buy turn the ign to ON ,+12volt to coil maybe (6-9 volts if ballast resisitor installed)

remove the Datsun wires from the neg side coil. make a wire from the minus side coil then touch ground. then when you breack ground the center coil wire should make spark to ground( should be about 1/8 inch) If yes then its good.

 

You got soemthing in dizzy that is groundedninthe points out to not spark.

 

 

key is if you put new coil in there and still dont work.!!!!!!!!

[ggzilla]

That coil is designed for electronic ignition - ohms are too low. It will burn out your points even if using a resistor.

 

Replace the points, condensor and the coil.

[old skool too cool]

she purrs better than ever. Starts on first click =). changed points and coil after points she fired up. still lots of work have you guys seen pictures of the 520. I will post better pictures soon. So I guess heres a tip for all you guys that don't know at least I just learned that since there are only two positions on the 520 from your ignition I guess leaving it on the position before cranking burns coil out. Something like having key in on position volts are not regulated through coil as opposed to being turned down while driving so im not able to recall specifics but if anyone knows more explain. so this is my first 520 about to take blocks off. As of now my car is on the stock 3in blocks maybe more never measured. In the front torsion bars turned all the way down looks ok. If I take blocks out in the back will I have a problem with u bolts scraping. Clearence looks good whats all your personal expireince

[ggzilla]

Leaving it in the ON position not running won't hurt. What hurts is having a 0.6 ohm coil - it will burn out the points prematurely. With the stock 1.5 ohm coil the points are good for 12 months/12,000 miles or more.

[wayno]

If you don't have stock size "U" bolts, then just cut them off after you put it back together, but you cannot go back after you cut them.

she purrs better than ever. Starts on first click =). changed points and coil after points she fired up. still lots of work have you guys seen pictures of the 520. I will post better pictures soon. So I guess heres a tip for all you guys that don't know at least I just learned that since there are only two positions on the 520 from your ignition I guess leaving it on the position before cranking burns coil out. Something like having key in on position volts are not regulated through coil as opposed to being turned down while driving so im not able to recall specifics but if anyone knows more explain. so this is my first 520 about to take blocks off. As of now my car is on the stock 3in blocks maybe more never measured. In the front torsion bars turned all the way down looks ok. If I take blocks out in the back will I have a problem with u bolts scraping. Clearence looks good whats all your personal expireince

[Driftease]

Yes leaving the ig on when the engine is not running will burn up the coil or the points which ever comes first. The reason is that the points are a mechanical switch when the engine is running the switch goes off and on 2 times per rotation on a 4 cyl and is on less than 10% of the time so heat can be dissipated. If the engine stops when the points are in the on position  the coil reaches saturation point and begins to heat (like overfilling a bucket) except when the coil is overfilled it changes the extra energy to heat and the amperage goes way up many times what the points can handle burning them up or welding them together, or the coil gets hot enough and internally opens the circuit (wire inside melts).

[ggzilla]

How long does it take by leaving the ignition ON engine OFF for the coil to be damaged? More than 1/2 hour?

[Driftease]

A few minutes if the points are closed, Current generally peaks after 3ms that all depends on how hot a coil you are running and how robust the rest of the system is.

[datzenmike]

I've left the key on till the battery died no problem. Not recomended though. Also have come out on cold mornings to find the car had stalled warming up and sat for 20 min key on. The coil is fed through the ballast resister and 'sees' only about 7-8 volts at the coil or points. Plus you have a 20-30%? chance that the points are open.

[Driftease]

Yup^^^^^ still not recommended. the only things i have used with points has been magneto ig anyways so the rules do not apply to that, no running no power to coil regardless of key position. The guy whom started the thread stated his coil is.6 ohm with no ballast that puts him at 22.6 amps and 13.3 with a ballast so i would say if he has no ballast resistor he would burn something up fairly quickly i guess it would depend on how fast the coil can dissipate heat.

[old skool too cool]

if my starter went out would it bump start? car was running fine parked for fifteen min. When I tried starting heard it click a few times wouldn't fire up so I bump started it first try and was cool. That was yesterday this morning no click at all... so I tried bump starting it about ten fifteen times it wouldn't fire. Seemed to be cathing the last few times but would not fire. Went back later today tried a good two more times then pushed it back home. No click alternator out? Wiring should be ok.

[Driftease]

If it is not clicking your battery may be dead, which will also cause no spark.