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69 510 2dr Project - VG30E/Autocross


moath

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Ok y'all, here's the deal. I'm looking for someone to lend a hand with the electrical aspects of this build. Either someone to come work with me at my place, or a recommendation on where to send the car in the Portland area. I'm not sure I can make the time to fumble through it myself, but with the help of somebody else (or a shop to do it for me?) I think I have a much better shot at actually getting it running. Any suggestions or recommendations?

 

Thanks!

Aaron

 

Laecaon is in Portland is pretty good with this stuff. Not sure if he has the time but you could PM him and see if he's willing to help.

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Ok y'all, here's the deal. I'm looking for someone to lend a hand with the electrical aspects of this build. Either someone to come work with me at my place, or a recommendation on where to send the car in the Portland area. I'm not sure I can make the time to fumble through it myself, but with the help of somebody else (or a shop to do it for me?) I think I have a much better shot at actually getting it running. Any suggestions or recommendations?

 

Thanks!

Aaron

 

 

help as in need a harness made?

 or what connects to what?

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Do you know Doug Vandecoevering? He's done a ton of VG stuff...

 

As I recall Dave Lum used a shop there in Portland/Bearverton for some work on his VG30DETT swap, I'll ask and see if perhaps he can steer you in the right direction...

Good idea on asking Dave. If he doesn't get back to you let me know and I'll see if I can get his attention.

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  • 2 months later...

I ain't dead...just been busy.

 

So I made time to get back into the project and have gotten a bunch of the wiring work done.  Fuel pumps are wired, CAN/AM box is wired up to the ECU, etc.

 

I ended up buying wiring kits with circuit breakers and relays for the fuel pumps.  Unfortunately, one of the circuit breakers was especially shit-ily made and the bracket fell off.  I attempted to repair it with hot glue and some crazy loctite glue but neither held.  Then I tried to weld them back together, but even on my welder's lightest setting I just burned a hole in the thing:

37269488975_4835fc8c33_k.jpg

 

Here you can see the wiring roughed in with vampire clips.  Once I confirm that it's running correctly I'm going to sweep back through and do proper crimped connections, but I didn't want to chop up the wiring harness a bunch until I knew it was working right.  You can also see the bus bar I mounted under the vent hose to avoid runs out of the interior to the starter.  The wiring has also been cleaned up a bit since I took this pic, and I'll be adding heat shrinking and retainers to the wires spliced out of the harness:

37078742756_07afda948f_k.jpg

 

I also got the shifter mounted in the transmission after finally ordering the right snap ring from Nissan (hint: it's part 32204V5003 if you need one). I've also partially re-installed the seat and shifter so I can mock up the handbrake. Since this picture I changed how the handle was oriented so it lies flat. I'm not going to be drifting in the near future, so I think that it'll be just fine.

37269486875_86fe65c44b_k.jpg

 

Bonus pic of the view from the seat.  That's nearly 6 years of dust on the windsheld :(

36871192300_f6984ac446_k.jpg

 

I also bought a longer clutch slave cylinder hose since the 240SX hose was taught when using the stock 510 host retainer bracket.  Dorman H38141 fits perfectly and was only a few bucks through Rock Auto.

 

Next I need to finish routing the wiring in the engine bay and start hooking things up.  Then I'll need to find the front cover for the VG so the radiator hoses won't interfere with the timing belt :/.

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Good idea with the vampire clips! I am at this stage too and so far I've cut one wire. I was hesitant because like you I didn't know what length I needed. I think I'll do the vampire clips as well.. until I'm confident that is.

 

Everything is looking good.

 

What size hole did you make in the firewall and what grommet did you use to run the harness through?

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I've heard there is a risk of solder breaking because of the vibrations in cars, so folks recommend using crimp connectors.

For this reason, all I do is butts, bullets, and of course shrink tubing on everything.

~Peter

 

p.s.  No, the above was not meant to be a euphemism... 

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For this reason, all I do is butts, bullets, and of course shrink tubing on everything.

~Peter

 

p.s. No, the above was not meant to be a euphemism...

Definately non of those vampire clips.. I use to do alarms and remote start work and every repair I had to due was due to those damn clips....

I was taught a poke and wrap method which works really well....

I had a tool that splits the cover exposing the wire, used a pointed tool to spread the copper wire, insert new connection, wrap new wire around the original wire and then some tape..

Only draw back is you can't use heat shrink tubes on the connection.... but I never had an issue just taping my connections....

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I had a tool that splits the cover exposing the wire, used a pointed tool to spread the copper wire, insert new connection, wrap new wire around the original wire and then some tape..

 

Used to do this. But...

 

 

all I do is butts, bullets, and of course shrink tubing on everything.

 

Now I just cut the wire, strip both ends, use a butt connector and insert the new wire in one end of the butt connector with the old wire. Then you can shrink wrap it.  :thumbup:

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I'm somewhere in the middle.

 

I open the butt connectors, strip a section of main wire, strip the end of the new wire, then place the butt connector around them, close it back to a circle, then crimp it like normal. Then i tape the connection.

 

I wired in the wiring for rear door jamb switches today. I also tied the rear cargo light into to the same ground circuit. This will allow both the cargo and dome lights to come on anytime a door or hatch is opened.Tested each new bit of wiring as I did it. Each works.I used a new technique to tie in to the existing wiring today.I took a normal butt connector and stretched it open. I used a utility knife to strip a small section of wire in the middle of the wire.20160724_172300_zpszumozzbn.jpgI slid the butt connector over the exposed wire, slid my new connection into that and crimped it all down snug.20160724_172657_zpsk8rjkvuq.jpgHere's another one20160724_181033_zpsytqv6apz.jpgThen I bundled it all back up.20160724_173636_zpslxmjwnht.jpgI want to thank Engine Room for posting how he wraps wiring. I have fallen in love with his technique and now use it all the time.First wrap your wiring with tape facing sticky side out. Then go back over it, sticky side in, sticking the two sticky sides together. It creates a snug vinyl tube around the wiring. No sticky mess if you use the cheap tape like I do. Looks great, holds great, and if it needs to be removed, it comes off great.I finished off the day wrapping all the exposed harness from the body connector back to where it goes under the rear bench.

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  • 5 months later...

So after I got the clutch hydraulics bled I realized I made a pretty big mistake when I changed the bellhousing.  After conferring with the bluebirds list, I think I assembled the transmission without the shift forks set up properly so out the engine and transmission come (FML).

 

After getting things disassembled for removing the engine and trans from below (basically lifting the body up high over it), I hit a snag.  I'm trying to disassemble as little of the steering linkage as I can, but leaving the steering box in place.  Unfortunately, this part of the linkage (the "steering gear arm" as it's called in the book) seems to be pretty solidly stuck.  I had to come back upstairs since the youngest woke up from his nap, but I'm curious if anybody has any tips for getting this bit apart for the next time I get back out there.

39912856944_97ad6efed9_k.jpg

 

My main ball joint separator isn't wide enough to fit in there, but I've got another one I'm going to try banging in next. Anybody have any tricks to share on getting these guys apart?

 

Hopefully the transmission isn't super hard to get back together correctly after I get it all back apart! :sick:

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Use 2 heavy hammers. Hold one as hard against one side as possible, hard whack on the opposite side with other hammer. If you can put a puller on it and put wieght on it at the same time it will pop easier. Dont hit the threads. I always leave the nut all the way on and back off one turn.

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  • 1 year later...

It's been a while, y'all...

 

I'm happy to report that things have moved along since my last posts.  Here's a quick list:

- Took transmission apart and put it back together correctly.

- Braile Battery installed

- Finished wiring (I can turn the key and the fuel pumps run :D)

- Mounted up pedal and set up a throttle cable/firewall mount using a universal cable and a 240sx pedal.

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- Made a MAF adapter and installed the intake tubing

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Added the bung for the O2 sensor in the Y Pipe

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This last week I've been troubleshooting the brakes when I can spare some time in the garage.  I found a puddle of brake fluid on the floor tonight from the T coupling on the firewall since one of the hard lines wasn't screwed in all the way.  I've also been fighting the master cylinder on the hyrdaulic handbrake, but I think I'm just going to bypass altogether, at least for now.  Hopefully that'll get me to the point where it's start-able/drive-able around the block.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Today I tried to start the thing.  Clicking it into the start position definitely engages the starter, but the fuel pumps turn off pretty quickly either in the on position or the start position.  The 200sx service manual says that the fuel pump relay will get turned off after 1.5 second if it detects a stall, so I'm wondering if it thinks it's detected a "stall" for some reason.  Anybody else run into this?

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