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69 510 2dr Project - VG30E/Autocross


moath

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Progress has been a bit slower than I'd like, but it's getting more and more complete.  I got most of the accessories mounted up tonight..just missing one stupid exhaust manifold nut and washer.

 

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I love that drip tray you've got there. Where did you find that?

 

Also, did you buy that crank pulley, or did you have it plated?

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I love that drip tray you've got there. Where did you find that?

 

Also, did you buy that crank pulley, or did you have it plated?

I accidentally stole the tray from the guy who walked me through tearing down my first engine. I've seen them around, so I think they're a pretty generic part.

 

I think I found the crank pulley on eBay as a new item. I've had to pull a bunch of parts together from various places since the engine was either missing parts or had damaged parts.

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Looking good man ! But I don't get it why you didn't open the rocker part. Or did you had a good look in it and everything was all right ?

Do you mean open the rocker covers? The heads were machined and there was a valve job done, then I reassembled them before they were installed. They did a nice job with them, but they found there was a lifter that I had to replace because it was damaged.

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You mentioned broken fender bolts. It's probably too late for you, but when I know a bolt isn't going to come out, I break it off without trying to remove it.  Many times, it's the exposed threads (beyond the female threads on the chassis) that are rusty. You can loosen the bolt, but it binds when trying to remove it. In these cases, I tighten the heads off and then drill into the remaining bolt, which immediately threads itself right out the back side of the female threads.

 

Great job on the rust repairs. I did this last summer, on a smaller scale.

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Sorry I meant the rocker panels :)

Oh!  I was just done with body work at that point.  It was a tricky spot and the metal around that area was all pretty awful to weld to since it was so porous.  Since I'm not painting the rest of the car I've decided not to tackle that or the passenger's side rear quarter panel that I need to section in until some time down the road.

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You mentioned broken fender bolts. It's probably too late for you, but when I know a bolt isn't going to come out, I break it off without trying to remove it.  Many times, it's the exposed threads (beyond the female threads on the chassis) that are rusty. You can loosen the bolt, but it binds when trying to remove it. In these cases, I tighten the heads off and then drill into the remaining bolt, which immediately threads itself right out the back side of the female threads.

 

Great job on the rust repairs. I did this last summer, on a smaller scale.

That's a great tip.  In hindsight I think that would have saved me a bunch of headaches.

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  • 1 month later...

Engine is down off the stand and the transmission is put back together:
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Also got most of the hard lines plumbed in.  I'm re-using the union spot that was originally for the rear brakes as a spot for the tee for the front brakes.

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I still need to plumb in the brake bias adjuster in the cab, but I'm going to wait until the transmission is in before I place that in the cab.  This union will be the jumping off point or the internal plumbing.

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FFFFFFFFFFF

 

Attempting to get the flywheel on the other night I managed to strip out two of the crank bolts.

 

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What was left of the threads from one of the holes.

 

So I got a helicoil kit and got to work on it on Sunday.  I gradually stepped out the holes to the 13/32nd size that was needed for the helicoil's tap using three smaller bits and then going to to the 13/32nd size last.  On the last hole my bit broke (insert more cursing here).  So after a couple more days, I got the stronger bit I ordered off of Amazon in the mail and got back to it tonight:

 

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Clean holes

 

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Tapped holes

 

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First helicoil installed.  There are two issues here:

  1. I inserted the coil too far back
  2. The coil jumped a thread on a ways back (you can just barely see the distortion in the threads in the picture above.

I installed the second helicoil in the other hole and it jumped the thread too.

 

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Can't have that crap...

 

I'm going to give it another go tomorrow.  Right now it's beer time.  At least the dog was there to help me...

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Man.. how the heck did it strip? Those should be good to like 100lb-ft.

 

It's a bit late, but I would have looked at a time-sert in this situation due to the high torque needed. You might still be able to do it. Not sure... Good luck man!

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Only the first few threads stripped, so I'm thinking I must not have had it as far onto the snout of the crank as I should have. It's an aluminum flywheel, which is an interference fit (not sure if the stock steel unit is interference or not).

 

The time sheet units are cool. If this doesn't work out I may have to look into that.

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The Heli-coil tap need to be a bottoming tap because the holes do no go all the way through the crank.

I measured the flywheel depth and the bolt depth. The bolts that I got with the engine have 18mm of thread, and the flywheel is 12mm thick. That leaves 6mm of thread in the hole when it's fully seated.

 

Now I'm wondering if these bolts are for a flex plate or something...

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Sounds like the flywheel wasn't seated all the way and the bolt only grabbed a few threads and stripped them.

Yeaz this is pretty much what happened. Between the bolts that were too short and the flywheel not being seated all the way I was set up for failure.

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