Dats Right Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Today my local parts store guy told me i need to be using lead additive in my fuel, im driving a 69 521 with a transplanted j15n not sure what year. Is he right or is he just trying to sell off those dusty bottles on the shelf? Quote Link to comment
danfiveten Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Its better since our cars are from around when lead was used. My stock 510 thtas all original i use a lead additive and ethanol additive. My purple 510 i dont. Also you do know to check the oil you put in your truck to be sure it has zinc in it, otherwise you need to use a zinc additive like zddp http://zddplus.com/, since new motor oils except a few like valvoline do not have zinc in them, and are not good for our motors when theyd ont have zinc. Quote Link to comment
danfiveten Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Sorry i burnt 2 of my fingers on right hand, so hard to type, some things getting jumpled Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 510s and all newer Datsuns are compatible with unleaded fuel. What about J15? Don't know, they were not sold in this country. It has a cast iron head, but may still have seat inserts. Quote Link to comment
Dats Right Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 so that napa 10W30 i put in last was probably not a great idea Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Its fine. High zddp oil is not needed for j-series OHV engines. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Napa oil is valvoline. I run it. Quote Link to comment
danfiveten Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 If it has NO zinc in it like most oils dont nowadays, then need to start adding the additive. Dan Hart has said its very important to make sure you have zddp additive, or run oil with zinc still in it. And i listen to everything he says when it comes to motors because hes the god of datsun engines. lol Quote Link to comment
Dats Right Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 oh good, recently read thread about using g4 oil in tranny instead of g5 so im switching that, then found out about the lead got me thinkin bout all other fluids, dont want to mess anything up by using wrong product Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 The lead additive (used to be tetraethyl lead?) was a cheap way to raise the octane level. It also 'lubricates' the valves, especially the hot exhaust. Long before lead was removed, (about the mid 70s) engines were built with hardened seats.(maybe as early as the late 60s or early 70s) The J13 might not have them but the J15 I assume was built later? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 oh good, recently read thread about using g4 oil in tranny instead of g5 so im switching that, then found out about the lead got me thinkin bout all other fluids, dont want to mess anything up by using wrong product GL4 for trannie. Should be..... " non-corrosive to yellow metals.......".....or......'safe with yellow metals.....'......as stated on product Only oil I could find in this locale is Redline and Royal Purple/synthetic 75W-90 1 Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 For years...and up to a month ago, I was running a product recommended by the local auto parts store. Generic GL4-GL5. Finally....I decided to phone the Delo techs on the east coast and explained my scenario...... 'older import trannie with brass syncros etc'. He was not impressed..... and stated that the oil will 'compromise' any yellow metals. Not good...............now I run the Purple. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 In the proper strength, the sulphur bonds to the top layer of copper atoms and makes an ultra thin soft layer supported by the copper beneath it that reduces wear. GL5 is contains more than GL4 and the bonding goes much too deep into the copper. This layer is so thick that when there is contact the layer just peels away exposing fresh copper and the process repeats it's self. GL4 is about 4% sulphur anti scuff additives while GL5 is about 6%. 2% doesn't seem like much but it's really 50% more than 4%. This does not grind a transmission away over night, it takes time, but it's best to avoid in the first place. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Yep. Ran it for years. And the transmission is still good. Quote Link to comment
Dats Right Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 I think the j15s from early 70's, so i suppose im on the fence regarding using the lead additive i guess it is better to play it safe then and use the stuff, the bottle says to dump the whole bottle in for every 10 gal. fill up., could i just go a little lighter and add say 1/2 that. Quote Link to comment
Dats Right Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 found sta-lube 85w90 gl4 at napa, that should do it for the tranny aye. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 At NAPA we sell Royal Purple that is yellow metal safe and Stalube in GL5 and GL4 varieties. GL4 means exactly that, though I have used GL5 in GL4 applications before and as long as you don't use it too long, you won't pit the brass. As far as lead additives, like Mike said, anything with hardened seats doesn't need lead. We keep some around for the old timers still running original 50s motors in old vehicles, but for most Datsuns, it's not needed. J15 I wouldn't think it would be needed, but you might do some research. 1 Quote Link to comment
Dats Right Posted April 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 alright thanks i will try to find some more j15 info, to see if it has the hardened seats or not Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Maybe I should have been using some since all my exhaust valves seem to have sunk... Quote Link to comment
Lingurade Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 what oil weight do you guys use in your l16 or l20? i use valvoline vr1 20w50 in my bmw, but idk whats best for the datto, any recommendations are appreciated Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Just use the same. Its a recommended weight, and you already buy it, so it will keep it easy for ya. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 10w30 is fine for any L motor. If extreme duty, run 15w40 diesel oil, works great in ugly Betty! Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 found sta-lube 85w90 gl4 at napa, that should do it for the tranny aye. that is the same thing I just bought for the wifes 1200 I run valvoline 20/50 racing oil 15/40 diesel oil is also good as it still has allot of zinc in it Quote Link to comment
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