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lead additive good or bad?


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Its better since our cars are from around when lead was used. My stock 510 thtas all original i use a lead additive and ethanol additive. My purple 510 i dont. Also you do know to check the oil you put in your truck to be sure it has zinc in it, otherwise you need to use a zinc additive like zddp http://zddplus.com/, since new motor oils except a few like valvoline do not have zinc in them, and are not good for our motors when theyd ont have zinc. 

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If it has NO zinc in it like most oils dont nowadays, then need to start adding the additive. Dan Hart has said its very important to make sure you have zddp additive, or run oil with zinc still in it.  And i listen to everything he says when it comes to motors because hes the god of datsun engines. lol

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The lead additive (used to be tetraethyl lead?) was a cheap way to raise the octane level. It also 'lubricates' the valves, especially the hot exhaust. Long before lead was removed, (about the mid 70s) engines were built with hardened seats.(maybe as early as the late 60s or early 70s) The J13 might not have them but the J15 I assume was built later?

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oh good, recently read thread about using g4 oil in tranny instead of g5 so im switching that, then found out about the lead got me thinkin bout all other fluids, dont want to mess anything up by using wrong product 

 

GL4 for trannie.

Should be..... "  non-corrosive to yellow metals.......".....or......'safe with yellow metals.....'......as stated on product

Only oil I could find in this locale is Redline and Royal Purple/synthetic 75W-90

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For years...and up to a month ago, I was running a product recommended by the local auto parts store.

Generic GL4-GL5.

Finally....I decided to phone the Delo techs on the east coast and explained my scenario...... 'older import trannie with brass syncros etc'.

He was not impressed..... and stated that the oil  will  'compromise' any yellow metals.

Not good...............now I run the Purple.

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In the proper strength, the sulphur bonds to the top layer of copper atoms and makes an ultra thin soft layer supported by the copper beneath it that reduces wear.  GL5 is contains more than GL4 and the bonding goes much too deep into the copper. This layer is so thick that when there is contact the layer just peels away exposing fresh copper and the process repeats it's self. GL4 is about 4% sulphur anti scuff additives while GL5 is about 6%. 2% doesn't seem like much but it's really 50% more than 4%.

 

This does not grind a transmission away over night, it takes time, but it's best to avoid in the first place.

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I think the j15s from early 70's, so  i suppose im on the fence regarding using the lead additive i guess it is better to play it safe then and use the stuff, the bottle says to dump the whole bottle in for every 10 gal. fill up., could i just go a little lighter and add say 1/2 that.

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At NAPA we sell Royal Purple that is yellow metal safe and Stalube in GL5 and GL4 varieties.  GL4 means exactly that, though I have used GL5 in GL4 applications before and as long as you don't use it too long, you won't pit the brass.

 

As far as lead additives, like Mike said, anything with hardened seats doesn't need lead.  We keep some around for the old timers still running original 50s motors in old vehicles, but for most Datsuns, it's not needed.  J15 I wouldn't think it would be needed, but you might do some research.

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found sta-lube 85w90 gl4 at napa, that should do it for the tranny aye.

that is the same thing I just bought for the wifes 1200

I run valvoline 20/50 racing oil 

15/40 diesel oil is also good as it still has allot of zinc in it 

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