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My Rescue 74 620 L16 4-spd Project Build


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STATUS UPDATE:  way overdue!

 

I've been basically re-assembling everything.  Lots of specific problems like EGR, DCH-340 carb issues, and obstacles just about every step of the way.  Since these were universal topics, I've posted many specific threads dealing with them.

 

What I've accomplished:

  • Body is back together
  • Brakes ready
  • Clutch ready
  • Electrical: lights, heater, wipers ready; NOT READY:  alternator probably bad and so no electric choke
  • Sitting on its tires/wheels now.

Current issues:

  • My used battery gave up the ghost so have to find a deal somewhere...
  • Carb seems to be working, however I've got it idling with the throttle plate totally closed (idle screw backed out), setting idle with mixture screw (can shut engine off if I turn it in too far), I suspect a vacuum leak somewhere.  PCV drawing and not hooked up.  EGR tube off, EGR vacuum off, no drawing there.  all other vacuum port closed.
  • Water!  HaHa, I'm doing test fires and completely forgot to put water in it.  Never ran it more than a minute or two at a time.  I really need to flush all the rust out.  The radiator had incredible mud in the bottom - I suspect the block is just as bad.
  • New Regulator but No Charge.  Alternator looks from Early Protozoic Era, will take to Advance and check out, so need to be shopping here.  Wonder if can get Lifetime Warranty locally?  I'm so tired of RockAuto.  I almost screw up every order missing something, or ordering multiples.  Will have to shop around.
  • Need to make a new EGR tube with 12mm x 1.0mm wall stainless tubing.
  • Need to "cherry out" air cleaner and paint with Pontiac engine paint.  And be sure I've got the vacuum hoses right.  (While ball joints would be great, L20B emission crap would suck balls. 

Found out I can get plates from AAA for $25 their fee which isn't too bad.  Real nice.  Go to insurance company, get card, goto (haha FORTRAN programmer!) AAA, get plates, GOTO Bruno's to get inspected.

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be honest Datsun alt are really modern . the volt reg might not be there but there the same in general.

 

if you have a ext volt reg I would get a solid state version.

there is a made in USA macanical type and they just SUCK. dont last and over volt.

 

 

I almost screw up every order missing something, or ordering multiples.  Will have to shop around.?????

 

I never had a proplem.

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The new Bosch is mechanic, but I have a Nieoff that is probably solid state.  It came from RockAuto and since had the wrong connector, they told me to keep it.

 

I was going to do a pin comparison to splice into the 1974 harness but just wasn't keen on doing the work.

 

But I have the old VR, the Bosch, and the Nieoff and they ALL have the same color coded wires going into the housing!

 

I wonder if it would be safe to simply splice the OE connector onto the Nieoff and just match the wire color codes???

 

______________________________________

 

Got the alternator in and everything works.  With the fully charged battery and about 50 *F ambient temp, it started charging at about 13.5v and slowly increased to about 13.8v after about 5 minutes.  I don't know where that would level out but most cars charge 14.2 to 14.5 volts.

 

But for now, that task is done.

 

 

 

But it never stops:    

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I would suggest staying with the original Nissan external regulated alternator, and Nissan regulator.   The truck is wired to work the electric choke with the external regulator.

Stock Nissan electric stuff is pretty reliable.  I would choose a 35 or 40 year old Nissan mechanical voltage regulator than a new electronic, or mechanical regulator.

Stock Nissan regulators have an interesting characteristic.  They are temperature compensated, the charging voltage goes up the colder it is.  A lot of regulators do this.  Nissan regulators also initially charge at a higher than the 14.5 volts considered nominal.  This may seem like a problem, but after the battery has discharged from cranking the engine, it can accept a temporarily higher voltage, for a short period of time.  If you are checking the charging voltage with a stock Nissan voltage regulator, let it charge for about five minutes, then check the voltage.     

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I still have the stock regulator and it was severely damaged by Rust!

 

Two of the terminal tabs underneath broke off (!)

 

So I looked at what was available, terminal wise, and reassigned some terminal connections since they were not all used for thru (inside to outside) connections.

 

As a result, the smaller external resister has a leg soldered to another wire and is "flapping in the breeze" and needs hot melt glued down.

 

The relay contacts looked very good, but even though I checked my "rewire," many, many times, I'd never be 100% sure it functional.  For one thing, there are two large conductive steel rivets that hold the whole thing together and are used for a connection to the big external wire wound resister - and they are severely rusted.

 

Other than tracing wires and measuring connection resistances, I know of no other way of "testing" my reworked regulator. 

 

A lot of work -v- an $11 Bosch closeout at Rock Auto.  Even though I already spent the time to rework it.

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I would suggest staying with the original Nissan external regulated alternator, and Nissan regulator.   The truck is wired to work the electric choke with the external regulator.

Stock Nissan electric stuff is pretty reliable.  I would choose a 35 or 40 year old Nissan mechanical voltage regulator than a new electronic, or mechanical regulator.

Stock Nissan regulators have an interesting characteristic.  They are temperature compensated, the charging voltage goes up the colder it is.  A lot of regulators do this.  Nissan regulators also initially charge at a higher than the 14.5 volts considered nominal.  This may seem like a problem, but after the battery has discharged from cranking the engine, it can accept a temporarily higher voltage, for a short period of time.  If you are checking the charging voltage with a stock Nissan voltage regulator, let it charge for about five minutes, then check the voltage.     

Holy Cow Daniel, you never cease to amaze me. Thank god you're around.

 

Oops, I mean, thank God. (capitalized)

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So I'm all ready to track down this vacuum leak and figure I better put 5 gal of gas in the tank since it is on empty and it seemed like I had to put 1-gal in to get the engine started.

 

I start pouring, and after just a few seconds, gas is pouring onto the concrete from the tank area at about the same rate I'm pouring it in!

 

(then profanity transpired)

 

There was no chance I was spilling any gas.  I reached along the filler tube to the rubber hose and the hose had gas on it.

 

I am cringing the thought of what I might find.  If the tank is fubar, this will be a Major Setback

 

 

EDIT:  "Good" news - its the filler neck to tank rubber hose.   Split on top at the tank - could stick a screw driver completely through the split.  I've put some gas in it before, but slowly and it didn't leak.  This time I used a faster funnel and evidently it sloshed up to the split the way the funnel was pointed.

 

Soooooo....   do they sell universal tank rubber at the auto parts store????

 

EDIT 2:  FIXED.  Got a Gates 2" x 45* that fit like a glove.  I posted the details on a Filler Hose Thread.

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The scale of butchery, cobbling, stripping, molesting on this truck never ceases to amaze me.

 

Thanks to Jersey ( I still haven't refunded his refund yet...) I thought I had everything.\

 

Now I'm ready for the Maiden Voyage and had to replace the fuel filler hose.

 

ONLY TO DISCOVER THE FUEL TANK RESERVOIR IS MISSING

 

AND all the vent tubes on the top of the tank are either not connected or connected in some bizarre non-sensical way.

 

So just to confirm, the reservoir tank is up in the wheel well?  (from the Parts and FSM there was no clear pic of where it is)

 

And, the fuel line to carb is on the frame rail side of the tank?

 

I guess I'm looking for one of those, however I wouldn't drop the tank for vent stuff.

 

HOWEVER, my fuel gauge does not work.  Maybe when I drive it around the gauge might loosen up (if float stuck?)  This truck had lots of corrosion/rust damage or electricals from sitting including the VR and Alternator (!)

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STATUS:  First powered movement planned for tomorrow (Sat.)

 

Have been running engine now, cold start seems OK with choke very tightly set at 2 steps rich.

 

I've got my seat back skin off repairing a broken spring and the burlap between the zigzag springs and the jute pad.  If I didn't do this now, it would never get done.  Unfortunately, the springs I ordered from DIY Upholstery will not arrive until Monday, so I can't finish over the weekend.

 

So my plan is to clean up the seat bottom, install it, the seat belts, and the mat and go for a drive out in the yard!

 

...only to discover, I have a mismatched set of seat belts and I'm missing a belt with the clasp.  Irritating, but will not delay me.

 

Have to remember to put anti-freeze in, its starting to drop below 30* at night.

 

Once it is derivable, I can pull it into my heated garage!

 

Hopefully, I will accomplish its Maiden Voyage tomorrow (Saturday.)

 

I've got so much junk stored in the bed and on the roof, I shudder to think where I'm going to put it all.

______________________

 

EDIT:  Did some late night work:  Upholstery Triage!

 

Upholstery guy said I could make the seats a lot firmer by putting some heavy fabric along the zigzag springs to keep them from working into the jute pad.  (You can see where people sit, the ZZ springs are digging into the jute.) 

 

So while I'm waiting on spring parts for the back, I fished some fabric between the seat springs and the jute.  I didn't make sense, but the seat did not have burlap between the ZZ and jute while the back did.  There is strong evidence these seats were reupholstered so that means anything could have happened.

 

Anyhow, it was tricky to fish that full cushion sized fabric under all those ZZ springs.  Learned a few tricks to do it!  One I got lucky - it was coin toss and I won.

 

Also spent about a hour cleaning all the muck, mold and crud off the vinyl too.

 

So the bottom is ready to go in tomorrow.

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UPDATE:

 

Pulled it out of the car port project area into the yard and

  • washed
  • flushed coolant
  • added antifreeze
  • adjusted carb idle/mixture some more

It was 35-40* out and nothing like doing lots of "GEE, let's get wet!" tasks.  620's still in the hard, I'm trying to dry out and see if I have any feeling left in my fingers.

 

Things I still have to do:

  • repair and install seat back
  • install wiper arms
  • winch spare tire up in carrier
  • install air cleaner
  • find a jack for it
  • heater push/pull knob (I had a deal pending)

then

  • insurance
  • plates from AAA
  • inspection

I should be able to get all reassembly done this coming week, but I doubt if I could make an inspection on this coming Wednesday.  I'll go to my guy and if he says he can, then I'll just do what needs to be done (seat and wipers) for that and get the insurance and plates.

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UPDATE:  11-30-15:  State Inspection:  Failed

  • Side Mirrors both sides (doors have no holes in them what to do???)
  • Front Brakes "aren't working"  this is combination of rear bias and the rears are grabby, don't know why.  Shoes could be a little contaminated since probably 15 years old.  Don't know if brake clean would get rid of small amounts of oil?  or maybe use heat gun and brake clean???
  • Backup Lights - they worked when I checked them.  Both out.  Fuse OK.  Has to be trans switch - when I tested it, ohm meter showed always open, but when I put a load on it, it maked.  Maybe it failed?  Could ultrasonically clean it.
  • Windshield Washers - I have when I need.  Just freed up pump motor, but nothing happens when hooked to loom connector.  I had to disassemble the wiper switch and I thought I got the cable attached switch working properly.  Either switch or wiring problem.

Mirrors are a real issue with me since doors don't have holes in them.  Clamp ons would be OK with inspection garage.  If I had the OE mirrors, I'd probably be happy even though they are a bit clunky.  Putting aftermarket mirrors on it just makes me cringe.  I really don't know what to do.  Wonder if there are glue ons?

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Get clamp on mirrors as discussed. Remove later and install proper mirrors. I would keep the clamp on ones.

Loosen off the rears. Rinse the fronts off with brake cleaner if contaminated or replace them.

Check the plug on right rear near tail light. It connects the frame harness to the rear lighting harness. Probably corroded.

Jumper 12 volts to washer motor first to see if it's still free and working. Then check for power to the washer.

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Thanks,

  • Looking at clamp ons (sore point here is I have one maybe two of them already but can't find them)
  • Rears already totally loose but they are grabby for a couple minutes, maybe they need rinsed off too?  would use heat gun and brake clean
  • Forgot about the "master plug!"  Definately check
  • Washer motor working just fine.  I checked it out and it worked, in harness did not make noise, took out and ran both directions off battery, needed that, now it works.  Trying to find the 3/16 OD clear tubing, difficult to find, I believe medical Oxygen tubing is correct which I have lots of - YES  OCD  and I DO NOT want to use black rubber and YES, I have the proper clips for this tubing!  And YES Questing for the other clips for the wiring.

I just don't want to let go of being asked to get mirrors when the regs say otherwise - yes, I should just cave and buy the clamp ons but hey, I don't want to spend the $40.

 

The law says regarding cars and light trucks:  "...at least one rearview mirror... provides... unobstructed view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle for a distance of not less than 200 feet."

 

Now while that may be ambiguous, here is what they say about Customs and Hot Rods:  "...shall have sufficient mirrors for the operator to view the front and both sides and rear of the behicle for a distance of not less than 200 feet from any operator location."  They specifically call out the sides.  So that is my argument: why would they call out the sides if "to the rear" included the sides?  Further, I could say, OK, I want to install the "one rearview mirror" that meets these requirements.

 

This is kind of weird considering they include viewing forward(!)  Mirrors to view forward???  But I did sit in a Delorian once and I don't think I could see the road 100' in front of the car and looking out the back was a view of the sky. 

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Pennsylvania

[6]

§ 4534. Rearview mirrors. No person shall operate a motor vehicle or combination on a highway unless the vehicle or combination is equipped with at least one mirror, or similar device, which provides the driver an unobstructed view of the highway to the rear of the vehicle or combination. This section shall not apply to any special mobile equipment, commercial implement of husbandry or implement of husbandry that is not so equipped by the original manufacturer. (June 23, 1982, P.L.605, No.171, eff. imd.; Dec. 18, 1992, P.L.1411, No.174, eff. 60 days)

Taken verbatim from PA Vehicle Code Title 75, Chapter 45, § 4534.

"One mirror, or similar device." Taken literally, means you don't need side (external) mirrors at all, as long as you have an internal rearview mirror.

This law does not apply to farm equipment, vehicles which were originally not equipped (and are so maintained in specific condition), and special mobility vehicles, such as pedal bikes and certain scooter-type devices. Interpreted from several other sections in PA statutes.

Highway, in PA Vehicle code, refers to pretty much all public roads.

 

http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Mirror_Laws_by_State_%28U.S.%29

 

Often the rear view can be obstructed by a load in the back and in this case you would not have an unobstructed rear view and be subject to a fine. In this case a driver's side view mirror would prevent a problem with the law. A passenger side mirror is both eminently sensible and practical. I would never have a Datsun without both side mirrors. Great for lane changing and backing into parking spaces.

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I have some more to put on PhotoBucket but haven't done it.  (I hate that job.)  Also note, I have so many pics, I just reference them here when they are just general pics of progress.  If there is something unique and special, I try to post the pic here.

 

Brake adjuster as bass-acwards: 

 

From the adjuster hole, turning the adjuster down it loosens the brakes. Which is opposite from what FSM says.

 

Could be they replaced them both and got on the wrong side?  Or?

 

BUT today an unexpected setback:  Radiator sprouted big leak, but is bizarre:

 

So I take care of the inspection items except for mirrors of course, and decide I should take for a long ride and really work the brakes in - I think that will cure the grabby rears.

 

I notice the temp gauge is climbing slowly, until it actually goes beyond the operating range.

 

In garage, there system is under good pressure and the pyro says the radiator top is 213* F. 

 

I don't see any leaks, so I let it cool down.

 

I open the cap and the radiator tubes are not showing - there is still water there.

 

I test the coolant and its mud, cannot see the bobbing needle in the Prestone diamond shaped clear plastic tester.  This mud is unexpected because I totally cleared out incredible mud silt from the radiator last year and then last week back flushed until I got clear water and put antifreeze in.

 

It tested to -10*F which is didn't make any sense because I got 3 quarts into it and that should have been 50%.  (I wonder if they include the heater in coolant capacity?)

 

Then I look at the bottom of the radiator from the inside and its totally wet with pooling water.

 

I pressure test it and about 1" down from the top there is a BIG sprouting leak.

 

Just thinking NOW, all the crud in the coolant may have acted like Stop Leak so that when I parked it under pressure, there were no visible leaks.

 

I will solder it up, but don't know about the condition of the radiator.  It felt "heavy" when I took it out.

 

Also not too happy about all the mud that is in the system.  I'm thinking I need to keep in the garage when freezing, run water, drive it a lot and keep flushing.

 

NOTE:  Radiator Availability?  RockAuto does NOT have one.

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I don't know if it is practical to try to find both L and R OE mirrors.  But only a L mirror is pretty good - I've driven cars with only a driver's mirror with no real issues.  AND I have tons of ads which show NO RHS mirror.  Finding only a LHS OE mirror would be "easier."

 

DECISION:  At what point do I throw in the towel and give up on trying to get OE mirrors?  I've only been looking for them a short while and have no idea how difficult they are to get.

 

I don't like the idea of clamp ons because they do ruin the paint and I'd only be using them until I got proper mirrors.

 

I'd rather take that money and invest in a Wink mirror which I've always wanted to have, however that would be one mirror and still problematic with some of these retarded inspection stations.  Who knows, they might disallow a Wink completely.

 

I can't make a decision about this inspection/mirror obstacle.  AND I now have to repair the radiator (!)

______________________

 

Just got a tip from parts guy that I should NOT have taken it where I went.  AND a referral to a young guy that is not busy.

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Drilling holes ruins the paint!!! The clamp on ones should have a rubber gasket or make one.

 

Wink are for racing. On the street you can't use your sun visors and difficult to see under them. Get clamp on mirrors and replace with stock if you ever find them later.

 

Drain the coolant and remove the rad. If rusty color then the block needs the drain plugs removed and thermostat out to flush thoroughly. Don't forget to back flush the heater core, both directions several times the setting on high heat. There are kits for cleaning the cooling system. I had some rusty gas once and ran it through a fuel filter and it cleaned it perfectly. You could probably do something the same with coolant. .

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INSPECTION is Passed!    (need to show up tomorrow to get sticker)


Fretting about mirrors for safety which I really need -v- getting OE mirrors which could take a year to find....

So I went back to inspection garage with everything fixed that he wanted (and I did too, really, but not now please...) and I got into a slightly emotional discussion about the regs -v- what he wanted, and he said part of the regs is "it is up to the discretion of the inspector to pass any item" and he said when he took it for a road test, it was dangerous because no side mirrors.

Exactly my opnion too.  So I asked him if he would accept me putting Wink mirror in it.  And he said Yes.

So I bot one at Pep Boys for $25, got it in, and drove past his place just as he was leaving.  I asked him if he wanted to see it, and he did - I think he was a little surprised how good they are, but he still couldn't resist, "well, its better than nothing."  So he looked for the keys and said I might as well take it for a spin.  He did.  He siad you're good. 

Come back tomorrow and I'll put the sticker on it.

 

WINK MIRROR:

 

The Wink was sort of a Bonus because my headliner is shrinking and has pulled away precisely where the Wink mounting brackets should be screwed into the interior sheet metal around the windshield!  What better way to take advantage! 

 

AND, it completely clears my visors!  I can put them straight down, for maximum sun, and in that position they are just laying across the front of the Wink!

 

This is WIN, WIN, and WIN situation - 3rd Win is this is way, way, way better than little poorly located clamp on mirrors.

 

Oops, another WIN coming... and frankly, I think once I get used to it, I won't really need door mirrors and can take as long as I want to decide what or if to do them.

 

FLUSHING COOLANT

 

I was thinking of getting a fuel filter and place it in the bypass lines that go around the front of the engine, to the thermostat, to the intake.  I did that all in rubber hose with a custom fabricated T-fitting that threads at the thermo, big hose around front of engine, and small hose to intake.  In fact, I just got my CLEAR PLASTIC Hastings fuel filter installed and retired the 1/4" can - I could insert it in the run to the intake.

 

Since I used hose, I disconnect the big hose and reverse flush that way and also when filling.

 

I got a huge amount of, seriously, "clay" out the bottom of the radiator when I first got it.  And when I got it running a few weeks ago got a huge amount of dirt out of it.  I have 3 quarts of antifreeze in it and I think I'm just going to dump it and flush and run water as long as I can with repeated flushings.  I don't know if its worth putting a cooling system cleaner in.  I have an old Studebaker Packard cleaner that has the "acid" and the "neutralizer."  This is Old School stuff that might be too harsh, but I'll bet it works good. 

 

My radiator is pretty weak.  The stream cam from a crack in a tube and in that area, the tube was barely able to hold its own shape - so I did a tube-ectomy - cut at both ends, removed stubs, and soldered close the openings.

 

I'll be running with radiator cap loose so no pressure.

 

I'll be off to some "radiator threads" to see what my options are.

 

I'm thinking I should replace the water pump - you can hear the bearing making noise.

 

RE:  Drilling holes ruins paint:

 

If I have to drill a hole in a painted panel, I feather edge the paint to diameter of exposed steel = hole diameter.  Best tool is a coarse Cratex point.  Or something from the Dremel kit.  Then I either oil, grease, or anti-seize it.  I don't know if Loctite would work on sheet metal screw threads.

 

This works very good when you're dealing with Old School steel molding clips.  Since the paint is feathered to nothing at the hole edge, there is no possibility of a chip.

 

Oh, forgot the most important thing:  when done with the hole, get a good burr chamfer tool and put a 45* chamfer on the hole.  This provides even better protection of the paint and really works good with metal clips.  Sheet metal screws bend the crap out of the sheet metal so its sort of academic - but that is where feathering the paint comes in to play.

 

Actually some amber rust proofing would be ideal, better than what I mentioned above.

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