0r0B210 Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 I installed a Pertronix Electronic Ignition Conversion kit with the Flamethrower Coil (8 ohm, 40kWatt) and the B wouldn't start. I bypassed the BR (ballast resistor) per the instructions, by the way. I unplugged the coil plug from the coil, turned the key, and no spark. So, I put the old coil back in and rewired everything as it was before the Flamethrower and the B wouldn't start. I bought a standard issue replacement coil, and still no spark. So I am at a loss. The BR does not seem damaged, but is it possible that I blew the BR with the Flamethrower? Should I buy an 8 ohm BR? To recap- I installed the Flamethrower 8 Ohm coil…no spark Original coil…no spark New, standard issue replacement, coil…no spark Is the BR blown? Do I need an 8 Ohm BR to match the Flamethrower? Thank you guys. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Do you have power to the resistor? The coil? If you blew the ignition fuse, it would show all those symptoms. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Not one fuse is blown. Thanks. I forgot to mention that. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Turn the key on and briefly touch a grounded wire to the negative side of the coil. You should get a spark when you remove the wire if there is power to the coil and the coil is working. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 That is a low power (if high-voltage) coil. The stock coil + resistor is a better unit. There are three (3) wires to the resistor. Get them in the wrong order and it won't start, even if there is 12V. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 I have tried three coils, the priginal with BR, new with BR, and FLAMETHROWER woth and without the BR. Today, i bypassed everythong by connecting positive side of coildirectly from battery. Still nothing. I dont get it. The car cranks, lighta work, no blown fuses. I did hear a click in the dash area when i would connect and discpnnect positive wire from battery. It would click on connection, and click upon disconnection. I am going to have to get my B towed. This ef-ing sucks! Everything geta power, per my circuit tester- BR and coil. Wtf. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 The only thing left to check is the distributor. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Thats what I keep hearing, but that would not explain the coil not giving any spark. Thank you, anyway, Mike & G! I am going to have a shop look at it as I cannot find anything wrong, except that the Coil won't shoot anything. There is continuity to the BR AND to the coil, yet no spark. Sorry for my earlier post's grammar and spelling….I was using my cell phone. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 The coil will not necessarily show a good spark without the condensor. Mikes method is not a great test. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Have had the Pertronix installed for a while now, and never had a problem with starting the car. Idle is a different story…but condenser does not apply as it has a Magnetic pickup type ignition. Pertronix Ignitor is the kit I used. I drove it to work, and it never started again. Is it possible the 8 Ohm coil fried something? If so, what MAY it be? I just don't get how 4 different coils would have continuity, yet not produce a spark. I am stumped. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 An 8 ohm coil won't fry anything. It has less power than the stock coil. The higher the ohms the less current it uses. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 I just don't get how 4 different coils would have continuity, yet not produce a spark. Simple. No power while cranking will cause it. Or, a stuck ignitor will cause it. Test it! Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 …a stuck ignitor… What is the ignitor? I cannot find one in the Chilton, nor any web-search. Sorry, I wish I new more about my B's electrical systems. But, can you elaborate on the ignitor's position? Thank you, GG! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Pertronix Ignitor - look on the Pertronix web site. Quote Link to comment
ericsb210 Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 I am coming in late on this game but, why not re-install the points/condenser to drive it home? It looks like the most common problem with the Pertonix is the circular item that sits on the distributor shaft below the rotor not seating properly. Also, how long did you have the positive from the battery directly connected to your coil? If 30 continuous seconds their is a good chance your pertronix ignitor unit is fried. I have seen quite a few Datsun electronic ignition systems in your area for under $50 on craigslist. They are a high energy system that most will argue will out perform and outlast a Pertronix system (low energy points direct replacement). My 2 cents....NO I do not have a set for sale. This could be an option if your Pertonix system no longer functions correctly Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 The Ignitor being fried would not explain the coil not firing. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Yes it could. It it is fried switch open, the coil won't fire. It is easy to test, disconnect the NEG leads from the coil. Pull the spark wire out of the cap, and lay it 1/4" from a strut tower bolt. Then touch a ground wire momentarily and watch for a spark. It often won't do it twice, so watch carefully. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 So does the ignition module send the signal from under the distributor cap to the coil back to the distributor cap and rotor? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 No. The ignitor only connects and disconnects the coil NEG terminal with ground. It is an on/off switch just like the contact points, only in a solid state package. Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 So if the ignitor is fried, it won't tell the coil to connect/disconnect its ground to complete the connection and shoot spark? So maybe that is why the coil does not shoot spark? So somehow my ignitor fried for no reason. I am fuct. Thanks for your advice GG! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Don't make any assumptions. Test it! Quote Link to comment
0r0B210 Posted April 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 Update: Installed new set of Points and condenser. Coil sparked! Haven't started it yet because I need to move the crank to set the point gap. I've determined the pickup somehow went bad. Sucks I am just out of the 90 day warranty. Thanks for all the help guys! I LOVE RATSUN! 1 Quote Link to comment
ericsb210 Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 Awesome, glad to hear your datto is alive. Points need to be maintained but with a spare in the glove box you are never going to be stranded. I do run the Datsun electronic ignition BUT I keep a points dist ready to rock in the shop for situations like yours...same goes for the mechanical fuel pump. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.