BlackBird620 Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 OK so I've been cleaning my engine bay and decided to pull the master cyl to get behind it and discovered above, felt fine when I was pushing the pedal and I have a spare I can use. Should I wait and run it till I know its bad or just swap with the spare that I know is good? Quote Link to comment
r0p0doe Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Change it out, last thing you want is your breaks going out on you when your driving then you'll wreck your car. Be safe not sorry... Quote Link to comment
BlackBird620 Posted April 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 This is just the booster I'm use to not having one on my rigs manual brakes for the win lol love driving the old muscle cars my buddy owns Quote Link to comment
jvb5577 Posted April 1, 2014 Report Share Posted April 1, 2014 Booster don't work.. brakes don't work. Swap it out. Why wait? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Booster works, brakes work. Why change it? It is just a little aluminum spacer corrosion. If it ain't break, don't fix it. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Might also be old brake fluid. It gets all jelly/crusty like that. Check if your master is wet. I've seen lots of good boosters with that, just clean it. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 What's it taste like? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Lime crumble. Quote Link to comment
BlackBird620 Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Ya mikes right it was just jell from leaking master with a little aluminum corrosion. Thanks for the info never ran across that before Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Booster don't work.. brakes don't work. Swap it out. Why wait? Eh? A non-working booster will not cause your brakes to fail. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 The brakes will work but it will take a hell of a lot more effort. A hell of a lot more. You'll think they failed. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 I drove my Mom's 73 620 with a failed booster for 4 years before I ever drove another 620... damn near killed myself first time I hit the brakes on my '79 and slammed to a stop. Thought it was the better disc brakes. Got my 74 and realized what they were supposed to feel like. Datsun boosters aren't that strong, really. Maybe 50% more effort? Not like my dad's old '77 Malibu- engine died when rolling, and you prayed you weren't aimed at anything, because you were neither stopping nor steering very well. I'd say that was 4x the effort. Like both feet on the pedal and stand on it hard. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 I motor swapped my 620 but left a few items disconnected... like the brake booster hose. When I got in running in the spring I drove it out the driveway to the street. In a panic it took both feet on the brake to stop it, damn it was scary! Spiders or insects had nested in the one way valve an jammed it closed. I put another on and it was normal again. It has the Toyota 4 pot 4x4 calipers on the front. 1 Quote Link to comment
BlackBird620 Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 I motor swapped my 620 but left a few items disconnected... like the brake booster hose. When I got in running in the spring I drove it out the driveway to the street. In a panic it took both feet on the brake to stop it, damn it was scary! Spiders or insects had nested in the one way valve an jammed it closed. I put another on and it was normal again. It has the Toyota 4 pot 4x4 calipers on the front. mike did you make your mounts for the Toyota 4 pots or did you buy them from someone Quote Link to comment
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