Weber forces Brake master relocation....

[datsunfreak]

Hmm that sounds easy enough, and smart. So i can uninstall the booster with BMC, and install only the 510 BMC?

will that work? or do i need to do more? Is 510 bolt on or?

 

If you can somehow get the mounting plate from a USDM 510, it will be as close to a "bolt on" as it gets. Because some markets had boosted brakes and some didn't (like the US), our master cylinder came attached to an adapter plate that eliminated the boost, but used the same mounting holes as the booster. 

 

Poor pic of the adapter plate: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p8QWcaWVK24/T7FO1W7SeKI/AAAAAAAABoE/8dK_mvvUApE/s1600/SAM_6562.JPG

 

Best case scenario, find a complete used USDM master assembly, buy a rebuilt master, put the two together and go! 

 

510 used a medium bore 7/8" master. 

 

Actually, it did not. The 240Z used a 7/8" (as did other models), but the P510 used a 3/4 master cylinder.

 

Side note, the 7/8 is a very common upgrade when installing larger front brakes. 

 

 

I would try to move the motor over a couple of cm. Cut 2 cm out of the right side engine bracket and weld it up, add 2 cm to the left or BMC side bracket and weld it up. Motor will be shifted to the pass side about 2 cm. Should clear the crossmember or do whatever it takes to clear. Fan shroud, same thing. When you win and people ask how the hell you made it fit? You just smile.

 

Had a friend do this with his B210. Modified the mounts to move the whole engine over one inch. And it did confuse the heck out of a lot of Datsun "experts".   :rofl:

[datzenmike]

Had a friend do this with his B210. Modified the mounts to move the whole engine over one inch. And it did confuse the heck out of a lot of Datsun "experts".   :rofl:

Gotta figure a shop could cut and weld the engine brackets probably for their minimum fee. Something like $20- $50 and it's done. No messing with the brakes. I'm not convinced a master without the booster will still clear and one with the bleeders on the left will hit the strut tower.

[ggzilla]

Thanks for the correction of the typo. I edited it.

[datsunfreak]

 

I'm not convinced a master without the booster will still clear 

 

Neither am I, but figured it was worth a shot...   :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:

[D.D.Anderson]

Following the instruction booklet, in teory i can just uninstall the system, toss the booster and install the master

back on place again. but will that work on practice? can i prevent leakage if i uninstall the master from booster? Will the rod from pedal fit perfectly?

Got no chance to do it right now because i got no garage for some weeks.

[datsunfreak]

Following the instruction booklet, in teory i can just uninstall the system, toss the booster and install the master

back on place again. but will that work on practice? 

 

Done it before. Worked just fine. Pedal got a good bit harder obviously, but no real ill effects. 

 

 

can i prevent leakage if i uninstall the master from booster? 

 

No leaks can result from this operation. If they do, you have other problems.  B)

 

 

Will the rod from pedal fit perfectly?

 

Usually, yes. You'll need to adjust the clevis that attaches the pedal to the master since you'll probably need to crank it out (make it longer) to keep the rod from popping out of the master cylinder when you let off the brake. 

 

 

But to reiterate, the 510 master cylinder (and other non-boosted cars) has the rod "permanently" attached, and is a good size for the car.

 

[ggzilla]

B210 words "OK" because it is a very small booster. B310 is much larger and difficult to stop when not working.

 

D.D., you can test it by removing the hose at the manifold and plugging the vacuum port. See how it works. I find it not just harder, but impossible to stop as fast.

[datzenmike]

If removing the power assist, install a master one size smaller.

[D.D.Anderson]

hmm not sure...

I looks like i got 2 good oppertunitys...

- B110 11/16 BMC

- some kind of 510 BMC

 

Needs something as easy as "bolt" on with no custom work or anything, haven't got time or money for that. 

or work place..

[ggzilla]

Already answered above

 

If you can somehow get the mounting plate from a USDM 510, it will be as close to a "bolt on" as it gets. Because some markets had boosted brakes and some didn't (like the US), our master cylinder came attached to an adapter plate that eliminated the boost, but used the same mounting holes as the booster.

 

Poor pic of the adapter plate: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p8QWcaWVK24/T7FO1W7SeKI/AAAAAAAABoE/8dK_mvvUApE/s1600/SAM_6562.JPG

 

Best case scenario, find a complete used USDM master assembly, buy a rebuilt master, put the two together and go!

[D.D.Anderson]

Done it before. Worked just fine. Pedal got a good bit harder obviously, but no real ill effects. 

 

 

 

No leaks can result from this operation. If they do, you have other problems.  B)

 

 

 

Usually, yes. You'll need to adjust the clevis that attaches the pedal to the master since you'll probably need to crank it out (make it longer) to keep the rod from popping out of the master cylinder when you let off the brake. 

 

 

But to reiterate, the 510 master cylinder (and other non-boosted cars) has the rod "permanently" attached, and is a good size for the car.

 

On the picture i can see that the master that is below got screws u can adjust.

Searched all over the internett, can't find anything.

[ggzilla]

Do you mean to say the pushrod has a nut on it?

 

Looks like a Datsun 510 unit http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1209989,parttype,1836

[CrazyHawaiian760]

Well, as i have taken closer look on equipping B310 with twin webers, the brake master cylinder blocks

the path of free spacing. Why couldn't LHD master be on same side as RHD?....

 

Well so im wondering what to do, is it possible to put it somewhere else or maby change it?

the whole carb system required 23-24cm space from head, and it hits the brakemastercylinder at the last cm, so damn unlucky.

And thats without trumpets or filter, not good....

 

maby be interesting to talk about, not only for my sake but for others that also has similar problem.

%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag227/vdubvicCrazyHawaiian760/003_zpsba24f030.jpgHere's some pic's of my brake master relocate.

[CrazyHawaiian760]

Have been an hectic day with alot of drama, so sorry and we forget about this.

 

Well following own research and alittle help from B Projects Japan the sidedraft system should have fitted, and if using longer

velocity stacks then 3cm then it will hit the BMC.

 

but now the carb body is hitting the BMC with 1cm when i was trying to crane the engine in the bay after install and running.

 

This is how the system looks like, kameari manifold and DCOE's, got wrong levers so i turned them in for ball levers as seen on picture.

 

 

Would be nice with SU's but i never succeed on getting one, i just lost a super oppertunity on ebay before christmas, 350$ for one complete, clean and perfect sample.

I have the same set up!