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Weber forces Brake master relocation....


D.D.Anderson

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Well, as i have taken closer look on equipping B310 with twin webers, the brake master cylinder blocks

the path of free spacing. Why couldn't LHD master be on same side as RHD?....

 

Well so im wondering what to do, is it possible to put it somewhere else or maby change it?

the whole carb system required 23-24cm space from head, and it hits the brakemastercylinder at the last cm, so damn unlucky.

And thats without trumpets or filter, not good....

 

maby be interesting to talk about, not only for my sake but for others that also has similar problem.

 

 

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I really don't want to remove anything because i really enjoy the car as it is, except engine....

 

But there is a Datsun meet soon, and i can only accuire first place pocal if i put those webers there... i got no chance without against

those 100% clean z cars with RB engines.... Triple webers with hydrogen peroxide... C32 laurel with RB.

Not a single dirt on them, every screw in gold chromate and polish...

 

Im doomed...

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So youre going to put twin Webers on a stock b310 just to win a Datsun meet? And your competition is an RB swapped C30? Bwahaha good luck with that... especially since you say you have no idea what youre doing and you dont even want to remove anything.  Your engine is going to drown in those Webers. 

 

 

Fuck awards man. Just drive the car because its fun.

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sorry you are missunderstanding. I have 2 DCOE's i have jetted and tuned to my stock Hitachi 306 DCG, and it does not drown at all, haven't heard anything that beautiful for years.

 

allways wanted those, so it tok pretty long time to afford these. I have done research and alot of work and effort

before obtaining these, but now it looks like i miss on some centimeters that i shouldn't have missed, A series 

engines wasn't installed on different places in the enginebay as far as i know, they SHOULD have fitted perfectly with only cm to go.

 

Later i was on a datsun meet, and they where looking forward to this upgrade, so i got alot of presure on me.

So no i don't do this only for the win, weber looks cool and sounds cool. i really enjoy driving the car, looking like stock but with a interesting engine in it. 

 

The thing is, everything was supposed to go smooth and slick, and then faith punches me in the face.

and YES i got NO IDEA WHAT TO DO AND WHERE to put this brakemaster because i can't find any place to put it,

im not professional, but offcourse can i work on cars. i got no idea about the brake/clutch system, that's the only problem.

 

Well i was only hoping someone wanted a positive talk but looks like people's only interest is to BURN my arse, so be it... sorry for asking.

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Well i was only hoping someone wanted a positive talk but looks like people's only interest is to BURN my arse, so be it... sorry for asking.

 

No one is here to burn your arse mate... calm down. When you word it the way you did, it makes it sound off and you should expect some razzing. 

 

 

 

Ive never seen a LHD A-series with twin side-drafts (other than SUs), but Im sure theres one out there. What is hitting the BMC? the carb body or the velocity stacks?

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No one is here to burn your arse mate... calm down. When you word it the way you did, it makes it sound off and you should expect some razzing. 

 

 

 

Ive never seen a LHD A-series with twin side-drafts (other than SUs), but Im sure theres one out there. What is hitting the BMC? the carb body or the velocity stacks?

Have been an hectic day with alot of drama, so sorry and we forget about this.

 

Well following own research and alittle help from B Projects Japan the sidedraft system should have fitted, and if using longer

velocity stacks then 3cm then it will hit the BMC.

 

but now the carb body is hitting the BMC with 1cm when i was trying to crane the engine in the bay after install and running.

 

This is how the system looks like, kameari manifold and DCOE's, got wrong levers so i turned them in for ball levers as seen on picture.

 

18032014534_zps0d9bb75f.jpg

 

Would be nice with SU's but i never succeed on getting one, i just lost a super oppertunity on ebay before christmas, 350$ for one complete, clean and perfect sample.

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Is it hitting the BMC body or just the nipples on the inside? There are a couple things you can do:

 

  • Remove the offending velocity stack and run without it. 
  • Notch the velocity stack for the nipple
  • Source a RHD BMC and remake your brake lines for nipples on the opposite side of the body
  • Remove the power booster (may or may not work)
  • Relocate your BMC
  • RHD swap. 

 

 

Those should be your current options in order or least to most work. 

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If it hits plasic reservoir go to a junkyard and find a car or van with remote reservior and adapt it to your master cylinder..

MGB i think use them to fit huge carbs .

 

here is a example of what i think is a Nissan quest van unit , but there are other newer cars that have them.

 

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSttbYZ69i9j06lhUkWt-J7hLSb6OwGN7F1U2mWdCsIpomvj2g9

 

 

Home made adapters in hoses

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/gallery/New%20brake%20fluid%20reservoir.JPG

 

 

Willwood brakes sells a kit but it probably take awhile in shipping..

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Will it work if you remove power brake unit and mount brake master cylinder to fiewall?

 

  I hate when Z cars win awards.

The only winners is the overpowered sport cars with alot of $ spent on them.

Poor trucks, cherry, sunny, bluebird and even V8 president can't get a treat....

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Is it hitting the BMC body or just the nipples on the inside? There are a couple things you can do:

 

  • Remove the offending velocity stack and run without it. 
  • Notch the velocity stack for the nipple
  • Source a RHD BMC and remake your brake lines for nipples on the opposite side of the body
  • Remove the power booster (may or may not work)
  • Relocate your BMC
  • RHD swap. 

 

 

Those should be your current options in order or least to most work. 

total RHD swap won't be done...

i think i gotta do something with the manifold or something... or brake system.

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Yes, remove the booster and fit a 11/16" master cylinder so it will still stop well.

 

Here is LHD with twin carbs

381.jpg

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Brake_Upgrades#Remote_Brake_Cylinder

I was looking at that picture earlier today.

But isn't it unsafe to drop the booster? it is the black booster bowl that makes the trouble now...

Isnt it possible to get the whole system "smaller"? for install.

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I would try to move the motor over a couple of cm. Cut 2 cm out of the right side engine bracket and weld it up, add 2 cm to the left or BMC side bracket and weld it up. Motor will be shifted to the pass side about 2 cm. Should clear the crossmember or do whatever it takes to clear. Fan shroud, same thing. When you win and people ask how the hell you made it fit? You just smile.

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I agree with Mike, it really depends on where the contact is, if it is on the lower part of the carb, will a 1/8th inch spacer under the drivers side motor mount lift it out of the way?

Put a spacer between the  block and motor mount hardware on the drivers side, and cut that much out of the passenger side like Mike suggested.

You can also move the brake master to the otherside, but you will need all the hardware to put a shaft on the firewall, and then mount the booster away from the firewall far enough to make it work, like they did on the mini's to make them LHD.

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Nissan sold a million cars without them, so...

 

 

What he said. With stock B310 brakes, I'd get a 510 master cylinder and toss the booster.  :thumbup:

Hmm that sounds easy enough, and smart. So i can uninstall the booster with BMC, and install only the 510 BMC?

will that work? or do i need to do more? Is 510 bolt on or?

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That is a stock B210/610 brake booster. It is smaller diameter than the B310 unit. Being less powerful, it also uses a smaller 7/8" master instead of the B310 13/16" unit.

 

I would find a master with the outputs on other side, and keep your existing booster. Some time spent looking through a brake catalog would be needed.

 

Or remove the booster and use 11/16" master.

 

These were the Nissan Sunny options:

* large booster + 13/16" bore master cylinder

* small booster + 3/4" bore master cylinder

* no booster with 11/16" bore master cylinder

 

510 used a medium bore EDIT: 3/4" master. 510 takes considerably more leg pressure to stop than B310. For that reason I suggest the 11/16 master. It bolts on after removing the booster and aluminum spacer. As usual the pushrod length must be customized and brake lines reformed to fit the new position.

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