71 2 Door from Atlantic Canada

[Sealik]

Did Isky supply you with valve springs?

Stock ones will bind and fail with that amount of lift.

.490 is max

 

Some have questioned weather to install a spray bar due to their excessive amount of valve spring pressure....I believe it exceeds Motorsports/Nismo that are rated at 275lbs

[Z chopper]

listen to sealick he knows his engines

[Canadian510]

Did Isky supply you with valve springs?

Stock ones will bind and fail with that amount of lift.

.490 is max

 

Some have questioned weather to install a spray bar due to their excessive amount of valve spring pressure....I believe it exceeds Motorsports/Nismo that are rated at 275lbs

Thank you for all the info, I'll definitely be picking up some retainers. And yes isky did supply me with springs and they're installed

[banzai510(hainz)]

what size cam to need 265 size lash pads.

I think soemthing is WRONG here.

Mark my words!!!!!!!!!

Is this a REgrind that alot of meat was taking out of?

 

to get the rocker on you might have to out a screwdriver on the side of the retainer to push it down to get it on. this is common. Or slide it on the lash pad then got the ball all the way down then still have to leverage on the retainer to push it down to get the rocker on the ball. There is not is slides right in without any resisitance.

then do the rocker cam wipe and remove and ck.

 

 

as for the reatainer one can cheat as lng as more than enough lash pad is in the retainer where its sucure in the retainer and not rocking

[Sealik]

what size cam to need 265 size lash pads.

 

 

He has a .530/306 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I dont think was a good choice in Cam selection

[Canadian510]

I dont think was a good choice in Cam selection

I know this cam isn't going to have good street manners and am willing to deal with the negatives. This car is by no means a daily driver or even something that will be making regular long trips anyway, it'll just be a toy I take out on the odd nice day.

[Canadian510]

Got my new retainers in and just at first glance I definitely needed them haha.

 

 

Went about setting the correct space (0.06) between my rocker and cam and found that even with the adjustment all the way down I can't get the feeler gauge between the two but it's very close. I checked my wipe pattern and it seemed to come out fine.

 

 

Would I be correct in saying that since the head was totally rebuilt with all new components that everything will settle after a few miles then I can get the right clearance between the two?

 

Also purchased a Nissan Performance spray bar after a few people mentioned I would probably want one with the cam I'm running, going to go about mounting it soon.

 

And my carb finally came in! Holley 350cfm 2300 series, just waiting on my adapter plate to show up before I can bolt it down.

 

[Sealik]

Typo????

.06 is wrong....'should' be .006, if that's what Isky recommends for intake and exhaust

To confirm the wipe pattern you need to start with the correct valve lash clearance. Changing the clearance will change the pattern

All valves/rockers have be checked

 

Assuming those rockers are new or re-conditioned

 

[Canadian510]

 

Typo????

.06 is wrong....'should' be .006, if that's what Isky recommends for intake and exhaust

To confirm the wipe pattern you need to start with the correct valve lash clearance. Changing the clearance will change the pattern

All valves/rockers have be checked

 

Assuming those rockers are new or re-conditioned

 

Well that will probably do it, had the numbers wrong when I went back and checked my cam spec sheet. Can you tell it's my first experince with L engines haha.

[Canadian510]

Well progress has been slow since I've been away for work for the past month and will be till the end of august. My dad's been tinkering away on the car while ive been gone so hopefully I can get the thing running before the end of the summer. Also thinking about selling my intake and carb for a complete set of side draft weber 40s a buddy is selling but haven't decided 100% yet.

[r0p0doe]

Well progress has been slow since I've been away for work for the past month and will be till the end of august. My dad's been tinkering away on the car while ive been gone so hopefully I can get the thing running before the end of the summer. Also thinking about selling my intake and carb for a complete set of side draft weber 40s a buddy is selling but haven't decided 100% yet.

Get the side drafts dude

[Canadian510]

Well took some leave days from work so I can get some work done! Went at the car today for a little and bypassed my neutral safety switch, wired up my alternator and starter and measured how much I need to shorten the driveshaft. Also went about returning my carb so I could go with the side drafts I mentioned earlier as it just wasn't fitting right. Only problem is my buddy might need the set he was gonna sell me so I'm looking at other options. I see Wolf Creek sells Mikuni 44s ready to go with everything for $1400 and a few other places sell Weber 40s with everything for around $1200. I know there's probably not a "better" option but what does everyone prefer and why?

[Canadian510]

Finished bending and installing my clutch line/Slave cylinder today, painted my header and also tackled changing the retainers which turned out to be a huge hassle. I've changed tons before but none that had springs as stiff as these damn Isky ones, after doing half I bent my compression tool and had to weld it to give it some strength back. Also found out that Specialty Engineering accidently sent me one short lashpad retainer along with my 7 tall ones so everything is on hold once again till that comes in. They were very apologetic and said they'd send one out immediately so can't complain, things happen. Just hoping it gets here before Thursday when I have to head out of province again to work.

 

 

 

[KlassicMotion]

Also purchased a Nissan Performance spray bar after a few people mentioned I would probably want one with the cam I'm running, going to go about mounting it soon.

 

 

Where did you buy yours from?

[datzenmike]

Spray bar is a good idea. What oil do you plan to use?

[Canadian510]

Spray bar is a good idea. What oil do you plan to use?

Haven't really decided yet. I've read that I'll have to look for some specialty oil or something with the correct additives so that I don't wear out my cam in no time, is this a thing?

 

Where did you buy yours from?

Bought it from specialty engineering.

[Canadian510]

Back home so time to get more work done! Got my last retainer installed, added my cam tower shims (which finally fixed my valve adjustment problem), and had the motor all together just putting the cam sprocket back on when I found it wouldn't fit. After some searching found that my tensioner had popped out and wedged itself into the chain so had to tear the motor apart to get that back in place. The buddy of mine with the webers won't be needing them after all so I'll be picking them up in the next few days along with 2 L20b's he's not using anymore, one complete with SU's and everything all for $1000. Doesn't seem like too bad of a deal to me!

[datzenmike]

Shell Rotella T and Chevron Delo 400 15w40 is a 'light' diesel oil that still contains lots of ZDDP to protect out 'flat tappet' cams. All newer cams are roller and there is no need for the added scuff protection so every year the ZDDP has been falling... dangerously lower. Its 500-800 ppm but used to be near 1,600ppm. The Rotella and Delo is somewhere around 1,200ppm I think.  Additionally the zinc in the ZDDP destroys the new catalytic converters. You can also buy ZDDP and add it to your oil or use Valvoline VR-1 it's for racing http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/

[banzai510(hainz)]

cam sprocket back on when I found it wouldn't fit??????????

they fit unless the dowel is too big. you rotate the cam Clock wise( ithink) t o induce slack on the otherside and then put on

best to install the chain when front cover off.then add tensioner ect to actuall see the the chain rotation and arch

 

 Only when doing head gaskets you use the wedge.

 

But if a new motor install the head 1st to block then all all other stuff front cover ect....

 

I don't know why people but the lower part together first then add the head(on brand new installs)

 

also best to run the stock cast iron exhaust manifold. that ones looks like shit and is banged up leaky to me. also hanges to low/ If L20 it will hit the floor

 

http://vimeo.com/19077890

[Canadian510]

cam sprocket back on when I found it wouldn't fit??????????

they fit unless the dowel is too big. you rotate the cam Clock wise( ithink) t o induce slack on the otherside and then put on

best to install the chain when front cover off.then add tensioner ect to actuall see the the chain rotation and arch

 

 Only when doing head gaskets you use the wedge.

 

But if a new motor install the head 1st to block then all all other stuff front cover ect....

 

I don't know why people but the lower part together first then add the head(on brand new installs)

 

also best to run the stock cast iron exhaust manifold. that ones looks like shit and is banged up leaky to me. also hanges to low/ If L20 it will hit the floor

 

http://vimeo.com/19077890

The sprocket would fit but the tensioner had popped out wedging the timing chain together not letting it come up high enough to let the sprocket go where it should with the chain around it. After fixing the tensioner and keeping tension on the chain while installing it everything seems to be fine. And that header does have a good ding in it as seen in the pic but everywhere else seems solid.

[Canadian510]

Got back from my buddies place with some goodies! For $1000 I got, 2 L20b's (one has a Nissan valvecover with some different accessories on it and the other is a mild build with dual SU's and a few other goodies that's 100% complete and ready to drop in) a complete set of Weber 40s that are ready to go with tons of extra parts for them and tons of jets, and a SSS wheel. I'm pretty happy! I'll grab pics of the engines once I get them out of the truck but for now here's everything else.

 

The wheel is a little rough but nothing some sanding/painting/varnish won't take care of

 

 

 

Carbs and all the goodies

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Well it better to put head on first and and chain ect to actually see the arch and the slop of the chain.

Using a wedge  half you tensioner might be pushed out before any oil pressure is even on there. You can get the tension in more by pushing at the top corner of the slack side guide to get the tensioner pad in its holder better so later as it wears most of the tensioner rod is stillinside and will not pop out of its holder

[mattyhacks71]

Nice score on the parts!!

[Canadian510]

I actually just got in from the garage and ended up doing it that way, was much easier. The motor is almost finished just need to throw on my carbs and exhaust manifold then I can finally put the valve cover on for good! Also tore into the spare l20 and it was in very rough shape, cam rusted beyond repair, pistons buried in piles of rust etc. Still has some parts that are good though and who knows might be able to still salvage the block we'll see.