Sealik Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Besides the pedals... A hard line and flex line from the clutch master to the clutch slave cylinder. (buy pre made brake line of suitable length and thread and bend it yourself $5) ............................. Yes......Papco sells 6,8,10,12,20,30,40,50 and 60 inch 'pre made' lengths. Just bought some for my brakes................... and clutch. Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 That cam is more for race then track and or...so to speak. Might want to talk to a few Realm members about that choice....I believe Byron had one installed with similar specs....not impressed. Swapped it out. Anywho.......I wouldn't waste my money on a down draft carb.....<......side drafts. Then buy a wide band to tune. I'll definitely look into that thanks. And as for the carb I've been getting a lot of mixed feedback on what I should do. When I searched about a downdraft on an aftermarket manifold vs a pair of 44 Mikuni carbs I got every answer under the sun. Some were saying there's really no difference between the two with a bigger down draft and a good manifold. Is there any truth to that? Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Besides the pedals... The pushrod to the clutch master cylinder A clutch master cylinder A hard line and flex line from the clutch master to the clutch slave cylinder. (buy pre made brake line of suitable length and thread and bend it yourself $5) A clutch slave cylinder. (there may be one on the transmission you get but are cheap to buy) A clutch arm and rod to connect to the slave. (there may be one on the transmission you get) A clutch arm dust boot. (there may be one on the transmission you get) A release bearing collar (or holder also called housing.. It is specific to the clutch size you choose to run and may not work for your application) A release bearing. Buy it new (about $15). A 5 bolt flywheel. (used, L18 5 bolt wheel will also work) A 200mm clutch and pressure plate suitable for an L16 A pilot bushing for in the end of the crank shaft. (about $5) Some thoughts... You will need a F4W63 four speed. This is the stock transmission for the 510. Cheap, people throw them away for 5 speeds and best of all they FIT. But as you are starting with nothing you could move directly to a later 71B 4 or 5 speed. They are more plentiful and much stronger if you should modify your motor later. You will have to shorten the drive shaft and modify the rear transmission mount but it is worth it. The F4W71B (4 spd.) and the FS5W71B (5 spd.) are found in the 620 trucks, The first year 2wd 720 (1980) the 280z and the 280zx and the first gen Maxima and 810. The five speeds were only available after '76. So keep your eyes peeled for one. A really nice brake and suspension up grade is to swap 280zx front struts into the 510. They have a massive front caliper and a vented rotor. When installed they move the wheel inwards 3/4" and lower the body at least and inch. (more if you want) The hub wheel bearings are also larger. I'm thinking that if you found an old zx really cheap it would have a 71B 5 speed and struts you could use later. Some zx have factory mags that will also fit your 510 and they look real nice. NOTE: the zx calipers may not clear your stock 13" rims so keep in mind for future plans. If replacing the rims go with 14" Dodge D50 front coil springs will fit the rear of the 510 and when shortened will lower and raise the spring rate about 50%. Probably get a set fo $10 each from a wreck in a yard. Keep eyes open all the time and look ahead to what you might plan in the future. Never throw a part away. Thanks for all the info! I actually already have a good chunk of those parts just need the lines. And I was super lucky and found a 280z transmission locally in perfect shape for $100 so that's what I'll be running. As for the 280zx front struts I'll definitely be keeping an eye out for some. There's actually a 280zx for sale locally for $800 that I might go take a look at and see if any of the parts are good. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 $800 for struts is a bit steep but you can harvest the 15/16 brake master... you should use it with the larger calipers. It might have factory mags. If an '80 or newer it will only have a 5 speed (or automatic). It will definitely have an internal regulated alternator which will bolt right in and get rid of the problematic external one you have on the 510. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 800$ for struts!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 $800 for a better 5 Speed, struts, bigger/better front brakes, 15/16 m/c. Didn't the ZX also have rear disk brakes? Quote Link to comment
KlassicMotion Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 And as for the carb I've been getting a lot of mixed feedback on what I should do. When I searched about a downdraft on an aftermarket manifold vs a pair of 44 Mikuni carbs I got every answer under the sun. Some were saying there's really no difference between the two with a bigger down draft and a good manifold. Is there any truth to that? I'm running a Weber 38DGES on my stock L20B, with a modified W58 manifold. I love it. Lots of power, easy to tune, and the parts are new and easy to find (compared to the Mikuni). http://community.ratsun.net/topic/56764-i-love-my-weber-38-dges-heres-my-38-dges-install/ I've seen different reports that state the 38DGES is rated somewhere between 320-380 cfm. One downside of this carb compared to the Holley, is the Weber needs a fuel pressure regulator as per Weber's recommendations, as it is a high volume, low pressure design. Some people will say you don't need the reg., but I found on mine that it runs much better with it. Thanks for all the info! I actually already have a good chunk of those parts just need the lines. And I was super lucky and found a 280z transmission locally in perfect shape for $100 so that's what I'll be running. As for the 280zx front struts I'll definitely be keeping an eye out for some. There's actually a 280zx for sale locally for $800 that I might go take a look at and see if any of the parts are good. Mike will know the ratios, but I'm pretty sure the 280Z 5spd is better suited for a low geared rearend, vs the 280ZX 5spd that is better suited for a stock 3.90 rearend. I guess which one is better for you depends on what gear ratio is in your Subie R180 (could be 3.90 or 3.54 depending on year). Which, by the way, the stock R160 will hold up just fine to all the power of that L16, and the diff it's self is 10lbs lighter, and a lot less work, since it's already in there.... $800 for a 280zx with 5spd, isn't that bad. You can use the struts, front and rear brakes, master cylinder, the trans (if it's a 5spd), and wheels if you desire, then just part out the rest and make some money back. That's what I did with a $600 280zx, and I made back $750. Josh K. makes a very nice rear brake adapter/cable kit for the 280zx swap: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24498-just-another-build-thread-510/page-19 Also, page 30 shows a bit of his R180 swap and the 280zx/Lokar hand brake cable adapters: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24498-just-another-build-thread-510/page-30 You should really just read his whole build. I'm sure you will come across numerous ideas for your car. Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted March 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Was that '71 built before April? Driver's door post. If you can send the Mallory back and find an electronic ignition (EI) from a '78 and up L20B. Don't forget the coil. 500 cfm is a bit big for 1.6 liters. A weber 32/36 will probably fit that manifold. Just checked the build month and it's January 71. Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Got my shortblock, head, and transmission back today! Short block is bored .30 over with 240z flat tops and the A87 head is totally rebuilt with bigger valves and Isky springs. Hopefully can start getting it put back together soon and put in the car! 1 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 sidedraft weber is the way to go, unless you can track down some 38mm hitachi SU carbs, with the A87 and 240z flat tops that is. Is the A87 open or closed chamber? Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted April 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 sidedraft weber is the way to go, unless you can track down some 38mm hitachi SU carbs, with the A87 and 240z flat tops that is. Is the A87 open or closed chamber? It's the closed chamber one. And I'm still really torn on the carbs would love to find some nice side drafts but since I already have the Edelbrock intake I'd feel like it was kind of a waste to go out and buy another. Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 check this thread as the guy basically built an engine very similar to what you are contemplating. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/44530-project-kaboom-l16-grenade-engine-build/ Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 check this thread as the guy basically built an engine very similar to what you are contemplating. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/44530-project-kaboom-l16-grenade-engine-build/ That's crazy similar thanks for the link! Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Went to work on the motor today and got a fair amount completed. The head is on with the cam and an all new timing set. Just need to order some new lash pads and everything should be set! Stuck the intake and valve cover on for the pic. It's looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 looks good, just need to clean up the timing cover and water pump. not too keen on the block colour, personally I would have gone for blue. Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted April 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 looks good, just need to clean up the timing cover and water pump. not too keen on the block colour, personally I would have gone for blue. That was my plan, was gonna paint it after I got it back from the engine shop but they painted it black without telling me. It was free though so not too concerned. 1 Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted April 12, 2014 Report Share Posted April 12, 2014 maybe paint over the black Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Finally got some more work done to the car! My manual pedals are swapped in and ready to go, and installed some gauges (water, oil, volts) Started to put my flywheel on today when i found this... For some reason my automatic 510 had a pilot bearing. First an SSS grill and now this, my car's full of surprises haha. Decided since I was throwing the flywheel on I might as well keep going. Also helped that my clutch got dropped off just as I was finishing up. Turns out my mail man used to have a 510, he was pretty interested in the project and we chatted for awhile. After three trips to Home Depot for bolts I finally had this happen Engine and trans are in! Motor mounts are all bolted in, floor is cut with shifter coming through and the trans crossmember just needs some holes widened then it'll be fully bolted up. A great nights work! Some pics of other progress 1 Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted June 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 A little more done today! Got my starter, distributor and alternator hooked up as well as the trans bracket. Had to enlarge the holes in the bracket to get it to fit but wasn't too big of a pain. I have been pulling metal splinters out of myself since though haha Also found out that my lash pads had an attempted delivery today but I was out getting bolts. Gonna grab them tomorrow and hopefully get this motor finished up! Quote Link to comment
mattyhacks71 Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Great work so far! I'm loving the style you're going for, kinda reminds me of this car. Keep it up! Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted June 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Had my lash pads arrive today so was super excited to get them in the motor and finish up this build! BUT just my luck they're too big... With the rocker studs all the way down couldn't even get the rocker onto the lash pad let alone set my wipe pattern. I obviously made a mistake measuring somehow, even though they are the ones Isky recommends so I thought I was safe. Spent the entire day trying to find a machine shop to shorten them and only was able to find one "maybe". Pretty disappointed to put it lightly. 1 Quote Link to comment
Bory Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Looks bitchin to bory. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 What thickness of pads did you get.? How did you determine the (wrong) size? Do you have aftermarket retainers to 'match'? Typically one would determine what pad(s) are needed on each valve..... then order.........don't assume all valve stems are the same height and or. You can't start grinding the pads willy nilly and hope the wipe pattern is centered Quote Link to comment
Canadian510 Posted June 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 What thickness of pads did you get.? How did you determine the (wrong) size? Do you have aftermarket retainers to 'match'? Typically one would determine what pad(s) are needed on each valve..... then order.........don't assume all valve stems are the same height and or. You can't start grinding the pads willy nilly and hope the wipe pattern is centered I ended up getting .265 pads from Isky, I used cut up feeler gauges and my stock pad then tried centering the pattern, I realize now that by putting the gauges on the bottom of the pad they probably bent into the cutout on the stock pads and gave me a false reading (my own stupidity) the pattern was pretty close and Isky recommended the .265 pads so I thought I had it. I don't have matching retainers as my dad swears I dont need them because there's constant pressure on the lash pads and I'd just be "wasting my money", kinda got mad when I said otherwise. I was planing to take 1/16th of an inch off one lash pad just to get the rocker on it so I could at least start getting a wipe pattern to see how badly I screwed up. Might just have to start from scratch and measure all them properly this time. Sucks cause the project is on hold till I can get this sorted out. Everything else is pretty much done. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted June 5, 2014 Report Share Posted June 5, 2014 There is nothing wrong with putting a 'feeler gauge' below the pad...done it...and it works well. I also made sure those pieces were de-burred and had the correct valve lash set to manufacturers specs (on a cold engine) to check the wipe pattern. That said....I did have a .150 pad to work with, which was not recessed on the bottom like the stock pad. Don't listen to Dad.....maximum pad thickness on a stock retainer is .180 At .265ish........they will be falling out. Quote Link to comment
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