bryant2482 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Ok so here's what's going on. I start up my truck this morning and I hear this buzzing sound coming from under the passenger side of the dash. I'm assuming its one of the relays. Then my battery light is constantly on, it gets brighter when I give it more gas and when I turn on the dash and head lights. Anyone know what this could be? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 The buzz is the choke heater relay. It needs charge from the alternator to function properly. The red light confirms the battery is not being charged. Visually check the fan belt is on and working, the plastic two wire plug is securely plugged into the back of the alternator. There are three fusible link wires attached to the positive battery cable very near the positive post. They are short with plastic connectors on the ends so they can be removed/replaced. Two Green and one Black. One (probably Green) may be melted or damaged). Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted March 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Everything looks good. Wires aren't melted, the volt gauge on the cluster says its putting out 14 volts Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 OK You should have three fusible links. Check the black one. It may look ok but be burnt inside or the connection loose. Try a short length of wire and jumper across it. If the light goes out... this is the problem. Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Did further testing and found out the diodes in the alternator are going bad Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Diode pack can be purchased separately, but I would just buy a good alternator. $25 from pnp nationwide. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 What makes you say the diodes are going bad? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 The charge light needs a charging battery signal on one side and alternator charge on the other to stay off. If your volt gauge reads 14 then the alt is sending that to the gauge. There is a separate fusible link that connects the alt. to the battery and protects it from an over charge. If this link isn't working, then the battery isn't charging. If not being charged, current will flow through the charge lamp towards the battery and light it. Get a meter and measure the voltage across the battery posts. Should be 14 or so with the engine running. 1 Quote Link to comment
bryant2482 Posted March 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Yes I'm getting the 14 volts going to the battery.and felter snatch I hooked up a snap on diagnostic computer to the Batt. With the engine running and it detected low amperage along with bad diodes Quote Link to comment
stormsinger54 Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 its sounding like i have a different problem..i have a brand new red top battery...with my old yellow top my chg light was off but now its on until i rev it up then it dims and goes off...return to idle and it comes back on Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Storm your alternator brushes are wearing out most likely. those red tops are not what they used to be. if left lights on to long(to many times) they will not hold a charge. or need a slow special preocess to rechrge right. go buy another alterator for that year truck get soemthing light this(dirrerent versions) , this will tell you way before the light goes on . By the time the light goes on your can ruin your battery or be on the side of the road http://www.equus.com/Product/3721/Battery-Monitor Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 Storm your alternator brushes are wearing out most likely. those red tops are not what they used to be. if left lights on to long(to many times) they will not hold a charge. or need a slow special preocess to rechrge right. go buy another alterator for that year truck get soemthing light this(dirrerent versions) , this will tell you way before the light goes on . By the time the light goes on your can ruin your battery or be on the side of the road http://www.equus.com/Product/3721/Battery-Monitor Before buying another alternator, see if RockAuto has replacement alternator brush sets for your year and make. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 15, 2014 Report Share Posted August 15, 2014 The stock alternator is about $300 from the dealer and 10X what a $30 replacement rebuilt POS is. Preserve and protect them they are certainly worth $8 to see if it's the brushes. The 720 were only 60amp, so try finding a good used 90 amp KA powered D-21 Hardbody alternator. Has Vee belt pulley and the two wire plug needs to be spliced onto your engine harness but lots of power. 1 Quote Link to comment
stormsinger54 Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 well it took me a while to reply because i went to replace my multimeter...when i tested it,it took about 5 minutes of it running for my alternator to show it was putting out 13.9 volts with my radio and headlights on it dropped down to 13.6...the battery is about 4 days old and still reading 12.4.. i might still look at replacing the brushes...it looks simple enough instead of just getting a whole new alternator does that sound like normal readings though? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 17, 2014 Report Share Posted August 17, 2014 Radio draws very little. Try headlights, heater and wipers on. The rev up slightly. You should still be in the high 13s, 14s would be better. Quote Link to comment
stormsinger54 Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 hmmm...well ive ripped my heater and controls out and wipers are currently inop lol so its looking like ill be fine then since wont use heater or ac..ill just replace the brushes for now but do plan on an upgrade in the future..thanks for the input everyone and for the ka powered upgrade mike..ill look into it Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 18, 2014 Report Share Posted August 18, 2014 out 13.9 volts with my radio and headlights on it dropped down to 13.6... sound like its still ok then. just reconnect and clean contacks. I had to reconnect my instrument cluster once to fix a proplem. 1 Quote Link to comment
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