From N/A S130 to Turbo Drift Missile

[Watson]

What do you mean? The turbo is a muffler. :P

[Atomic]

Here in Finland, it's not allowed to go over 85 dB(A) with exhaust :/

[Driftease]

We have the same law but no one enforces it. lol

[Atomic]

We have the same law but no one enforces it. lol

Lol, good for you :D here it's kinda 50/50

[Watson]

So close! Everything works, I just don't have spark. I'll have that hashed out soon!

 

 

 

[Watson]

[Atomic]

Take spark plug off one by one and ask someone to turn it on and see if you got any spark. Have you tested the fuel feed?

[Driftease]

Damn was looking forward to hearing it, battery seems low or motor is real tight.

[720warpony]

Nice job it I like

[Watson]

I have been busting my brain-balls trying to get this ignition thing sorted out. Many solutions have been tried and I ended up frying a CDI module and I think I broke the optical trigger. So I built a new one.

 

 

After testing many different setups with mixed results, it was time to call it a night. I'm exhausted. Until tomorrow...

 

[Watson]

So close! So very close! I figured out a solution for the optical sensor and I've now got fuel and spark.

 

 

I got even closer than this video but I need to hash out my enrichment table and uhhh get a new starter. Shit.

 

[Driftease]

Sounds like it is hitting off of the prime shot then dyeing, if so you can increase the VE cells in the lower left corner of the map to get more fuel so it will stay running then adjust from there

[ArchetypeDatsun]

Is that intake manifold from a 280z or the stock 280zx non turbo manifold? If so get the L28ET manifold for better flow or the non egr 280z manifold is a great one. Don't know it you seen these greddy RB style manifolds for the L-6 this is would definitely help with your set up.

 

[Watson]

Sounds like it is hitting off of the prime shot then dyeing, if so you can increase the VE cells in the lower left corner of the map to get more fuel so it will stay running then adjust from there

 

Thanks for the tip, brother-man. I also didn't have my timing setup correctly and I'm trying to figure out how to properly phase my optical trigger in relation to the dizzy rotor so my spark actually goes off at the right time. Bare with me, everything I've done so far is completely new to me. I'm sure I'll have it hashed out soon.

 

Is that intake manifold from a 280z or the stock 280zx non turbo manifold? If so get the L28ET manifold for better flow or the non egr 280z manifold is a great one. Don't know it you seen these greddy RB style manifolds for the L-6 this is would definitely help with your set up.

 

It's the stock 280ZX non turbo manifold. What characteristics does the L28ET manifold have that make it better? By the way, that greddy style manifold is bad ass!!! I didn't know those were a thing! Nice!

 

 

This is all I have for pictures today. The quality of my meals currently since I don't even consider food. I just want to make Watson run!!!! Ahhhh!!!!!!! I'm so very close! I've realized my faults lie within timing and possibly a little fuel. Guys, when I started this build, I had no idea what I was doing; about anything. I've made it this far and it's my last hurdle. I will have this done and I will have gained a great deal of knowledge. When I first fired up MegaTune, I had no freaking clue what anything meant! I'm slowly learning and currently I'm working my timing issues and figuring out how to properly phase my optical trigger in relation to the dizzy rotor so this beast can roar to life.

 

[ArchetypeDatsun]

N/A has longer intake runners good but will run out of power at 5500 rpm a turbo manifold has shorter runners it will have less lag and it should give you just slightly better mid range torque, that aftermarket manifold would help with low end torque and mid range even better.

[Watson]

Hmm, that's interesting. I've already been considering a different intake manifold for various reasons. That piques my interest to research the subject more and do some experimenting.

[Driftease]

Thanks for the tip, brother-man. I also didn't have my timing setup correctly and I'm trying to figure out how to properly phase my optical trigger in relation to the dizzy rotor so my spark actually goes off at the right time. Bare with me, everything I've done so far is completely new to me. I'm sure I'll have it hashed out soon.

It depends on what trigger wheel you are using in the dizzy, if it is a standard 6 slot then you will need a timing lite then you adjust by hand or by using the trigger offset feature till yo get the same reading on the damper as it shows on your screen it will be a pain until it will run on its own to really zero it in. I thought you were not running spark through MS on this one.

 

Keep trying it took me a while to get my first one running well and tuning is a perpetually ongoing project 

[Watson]

I had a buddy come over to help brainstorm on the tuning. We had limited success although that is still more than we started with. It was idling at 200-300 rpm which still doesn't take it out of the cranking enrichment table. Can anybody provide some insight as to correct PWM for stock L28ET injectors? I'm at a standstill on tuning now as the battery is dead. Until tomorrow...

 

[Driftease]

stock turbo injectors should not need PWM double check but i thought they were high impedence that would be your lack of fuel if pwm is invoked the injector may not have enough voltage to remain open

[Driftease]

check to see if you have installed the flyback circuit i thought ms1 did not come with it and it will burn up the injector drivers if you use pwm without it.

[Watson]

I checked for myself; they're low impedance at ~ 2.9 ohms. I did install the fly back circuit.

 

Its not quite an issue of injectors remaining open, I believe. I mean there is PLENTY of fuel going into the engine. My nose, the wet spark plugs, and the AFR gauge says so. We've been close to getting it running. We've even had it crank and start very strongly but it just wouldn't catch, or if it does catch then it just idles very low. We did a little more research on what the MS is looking for exactly in regards to variables and have come up with some solutions.

 

Lets see if today is the day.

[Watson]

I'm about ready to throw this ECU out the window. I can't even tell you how many variables I've tried. It kicks hard like it wants to start but then just falls on its face. Sometimes it idles around 200-300 rpm and then dies. I've tried enriching and leaning out the mixture. I've tried TONS of different PWM setups with the injectors and even tried to just put the factory resistors on (mind you, in a configuration that made each bank ~13 ohms on the injectors) and run them as high impedance injectors so I feel given everything I tried, this car should be idling by now. Why?????!?!?!?!?!/1?!!?1/2/123/12/31?32!?3@!?323

 

 

[Atomic]

I wouldn't run low impedance injectors that high, you will end up buying new ones.

To relief your pain, I went to google:

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/34536-megasquirt-map-information-sharing-all-code-versions/   <---- link to the forum

 

His specs were:

''Stock L28ET

Intercooled 18x11x3 with 2.5" pipes
15psi boost
Ford Lightning High Impedence 42# Injectors (440cc)
Stock FPR
Walbro Pump
TO4B "SUPER-V" trim compressor
2.5" Exhaust
240SX TB and TPS
GM-IATS
Stock ZXT Head temp Sensor
LC-1 Wideband O2 sensor (currently disabled for rough tuning)
Stock ZXT Idle air controller.

''

[Atomic]

Hope you get it running soon, do you have high impedance lambda?

[Atomic]

''

For low-impedance injectors (less than 3 Ohms), you need to limit the current to avoid over heating the injectors. To do this, there is a period of time that you apply full battery voltage [peak] current, then switch over to a lower current-averaged [hold] current, i.e. peak and hold. Alternatively, you can add resistors in series with the injectors. See the Injectors and Fuel Supply section of this manual for more details.

 

To run low-impedance injectors with the PWM current limit mode, you need to set two parameters - the "PWM Current Limit (%)" and the "PWM Time Threshold (ms)" - both are on the “Constants” page. The current limit % is the percent duty cycle when the current limit is invoked. The time threshold is the amount of time from when the injector is first opened until the current limit is activated.

1. Start with:
   • PWM Time Threshold = 1.0 millisecond, and
   • PWM Current Limit (%) = 75% (30% if you have the flyback board installed).
2. Once you get your engine idling, then first adjust the PWM duty cycle down in 1% increments until you notice a change in idle quality (be sure to hit the "send to ECU" button each time you change the value). This is the point where the current limit is too much and the injectors are not being held fully open.
3. Then move the value back up 3 - 5% (for example, if the idle falters at 45%, then put in a number of 48% to 50%).
4. Move on to adjusting the time threshold. Lower the time threshold by 0.1 milliseconds at a time until the idle quality deteriorates.
5. Then increase it 0.3 ms.
6. Now, repeat these steps (starting at #2). Adjust the duty cycle and time threshold alternately to get the optimum values for your set-up. You will converge on a set of numbers that work well for your set-up.

''
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtune.htm#pwm