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1970 datsun 521 J15 rat rod barn find


wobble

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I got some time to finish off the last panel

 

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Then things took a strange and unexpected turn.

 

I got another Datsun!

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Its a parts car, it has a L20B with twin Dellorto carburetors floor shift, this will be a massive improvement on the J15 column shift.

this a major departure from original plan of keeping its stock and just lowering it. but $750 for the lot was too cheap to pass up

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I started stripping the 620 this weekend

 

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So I have taken off the 620 the motor and box and drive line, I might take the diff i need to check the ratios in the 521, I will be taking the front brakes and brake booster.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been putting off doing this side, due to some previous accident damage the panel had been welded on. I had to cut the panel off to fix the rust and I decided to just weld it back on. Done.

 

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I used Ankor wax to protect the car from rust

 

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This are going well, not that much more to do. finish off the door cards and some wiring glitches

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  • 3 weeks later...

I do not know if you have the links but here are some that might help you.

 

Rubber

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/DATSUN%201300%20PICK%20UP%201964-72%20520.htm

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Nissan-1300-1500-520-521-Ute-Door-Front-1-4-Vent-Window-Rubber-Rubbers-/262603539317?hash=item3d24640375:g:XiQAAOSwXshWsZ7y&vxp=mtr

 

Manual PDF downloads scroll down on the page

http://www.davidcmurphy.com/olddat/620tech.htm

 

Ther are wiring diagrams but they are for US trucks, but they should be cose enough to hel you figure out the wiring.

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Thanks for that. I will need to get the chassis mounts welded up for sure, right now I'm going run the J15 for the shake down. Once I'm happy with all the fixes I'll look at doing the L20 swap.

 

I drove it for the first time this weekend, just up the street to test the brakes and just give it a run. Most things went well clutch and gears worked well but the brakes need work locking up with just a touch. It was backfiring like a son of a bitch as well.

I pull the dizzy and replaced the cap and ordered a rotor arm cos it was a little messed up. I'll have another crack at it next weekend when I get the part in

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Long wheel base tubs are scarce int the US also. 

 

When I did the frame mounts for the L20B, I bolted everything concerning the engine mounts and the brackets up with the the engine bolted the transmission to the engine and set it al in as an assembly.  Moved it front to back to clear the oil pan and side to side to get the mounting surface for the carb  level side to side and also ffront to back.  I drew center lines on the front cross member under the radiator and also on the trans crossmember to center engine and transmissision in the chassis side to side.  I set the engine as low in the chassis as I could for my purpose.  I had the engine blocked up from underneath and also had the hoist still attached with the chain snugged in case I knocked it off the blocks.  After I had it all lined up I tack welded the mounts to the frame.  I also had to make a custom trans mount bracket because I was running an automatic trans.

 

One thing to watch is not to get the engine pushed back to far into the firewall because you will not be able to get the valve cover off the engine.

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