Guest taherprasetyo Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hi Guys Im noob here. i just bought datsun 620 74' this weekend. the problem is, my trucks stop after 2 hr ride. i check everything works fine except the radiator. i dont have any indicator on, so i dont know my engine heat. any advice for me? thank you.. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Does the gas gauge work? The temp sender in the front bottom of the thermostat housing and should have a Yellow/white strip wire on it. Does it? Quote Link to comment
monkbonk Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Get one dem there IR temperature checking guns. Quote Link to comment
Guest taherprasetyo Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Does the gas gauge work? The temp sender in the front bottom of the thermostat housing and should have a Yellow/white strip wire on it. Does it? my gas gauge is not working to... my interior is not the original, and the electricity is a lill bit sucks. somthimes gas gauge on, and sometimes doesnt work. do i have to change to another radiator or something? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Is it boiling over?? Steam? Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Engine coolant temperature and Fuel level meters use the same instrument panel voltage regulator. "Occam's Razor" the simplest solution is usually the right one. Have your radiator rodded and boiled out for good measure The radiator has probably been accumulating gunk for 40 years. Quote Link to comment
Guest taherprasetyo Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 Is it boiling over?? Steam? yes its boiling but no drains. Engine coolant temperature and Fuel level meters use the same instrument panel voltage regulator. "Occam's Razor" the simplest solution is usually the right one. Have your radiator rodded and boiled out for good measure The radiator has probably been accumulating gunk for 40 years. the car electricity is at bad condition, too much wire to change. maybe i have to replace all the wire with the new one. my friend said earlier. the problem is in the coil. if its at high temper, the coil stop firing. dunno if this right or wrong.. thanks guys for replying so fast. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 That a probably it For $20 you can get a handheld temperature indicator from Harbor Freight. Or just change the Inst fuse. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 6, 2014 Report Share Posted February 6, 2014 make sure gas in the truck. coil not firing? that mean you took the center coil wire out and place near metal and the coil doesn not fire when you try to start motor? Is this points ignition or a eleltronic ignition? if points ignition make sure to use a point type coil. or correct coil. Make sure its also not gettting HOT. Feel it. If point ignition ck the point gap and bushing and ballast resisitor. It better have a ballast resisitor in there. water boiling over in radiator has NOTHING to do with the coil not firing!!!!!! the coil doesn not care if motor hot or cold. But if boiling over this is bad and also needs to get fixed. might be sucking up water then not running? If your friend thinks its the coil then get the correct coil and put it in there. Quote Link to comment
Guest taherprasetyo Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 That a probably it For $20 you can get a handheld temperature indicator from Harbor Freight. Or just change the Inst fuse. thanks . i appreciate it make sure gas in the truck. coil not firing? that mean you took the center coil wire out and place near metal and the coil doesn not fire when you try to start motor? Is this points ignition or a eleltronic ignition? if points ignition make sure to use a point type coil. or correct coil. Make sure its also not gettting HOT. Feel it. If point ignition ck the point gap and bushing and ballast resisitor. It better have a ballast resisitor in there. water boiling over in radiator has NOTHING to do with the coil not firing!!!!!! the coil doesn not care if motor hot or cold. But if boiling over this is bad and also needs to get fixed. might be sucking up water then not running? If your friend thinks its the coil then get the correct coil and put it in there. when i test the coil, its red low flashing fire. is that a problem? and its still point ignition. okoay ill check the point after this. so the radiator has nothing to do with temperature, then i have to change the radiator with the new one. thanks for replying Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 The radiator has something to do with temperature. But the cause of the overheating may be something else, for example the water level could be low or the thermostat bad. Quote Link to comment
Aibast Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 overheating event (the radiator cap gives out steam - coolant boils) can be caused by following: 1. Thermostat is stuck and doesn't open - test this by placing the thermostat in a pot of water and get it to boil and see if it opens up or not. Replace when needed. 2. idling for a long long long time in a hot hot hot weather - if this happens, turn your cabs ventilation to max heat and max speed. The heater is in essence a small radiator. 3. headgasget failure - fuels burning and expanding gasses escape in to the enginest coolant passages - test white smoke from the exhaust, random misfire - sparkplug looks a lot cleaner than the other cilinders, constantly droping coolant levels. There may be coolant in the oil as well. Compression test should also reveal any flaws. 4. To little coolant in the system. Coolant does vaporize away slowly - more so in hot weather conditions. So chenk this first. Overheating by gauge but no event 1. Voltage regulator in the dash faulty - test, fuel level indicator doesn't work or shows to high of a level. 2. short to the ground on the temperature sensor cable - the sensor works by resistance to the ground - so cold =1 no connection, to hot is =0 - full connnection to the ground. 3. bad temperature sensor. You can test the circit by putting the sensor cable to the batter " - " and see if it reads max temperature. 1 Quote Link to comment
Guest taherprasetyo Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 The radiator has something to do with temperature. But the cause of the overheating may be something else, for example the water level could be low or the thermostat bad. overheating event (the radiator cap gives out steam - coolant boils) can be caused by following: 1. Thermostat is stuck and doesn't open - test this by placing the thermostat in a pot of water and get it to boil and see if it opens up or not. Replace when needed. 2. idling for a long long long time in a hot hot hot weather - if this happens, turn your cabs ventilation to max heat and max speed. The heater is in essence a small radiator. 3. headgasget failure - fuels burning and expanding gasses escape in to the enginest coolant passages - test white smoke from the exhaust, random misfire - sparkplug looks a lot cleaner than the other cilinders, constantly droping coolant levels. There may be coolant in the oil as well. Compression test should also reveal any flaws. 4. To little coolant in the system. Coolant does vaporize away slowly - more so in hot weather conditions. So chenk this first. Overheating by gauge but no event 1. Voltage regulator in the dash faulty - test, fuel level indicator doesn't work or shows to high of a level. 2. short to the ground on the temperature sensor cable - the sensor works by resistance to the ground - so cold =1 no connection, to hot is =0 - full connnection to the ground. 3. bad temperature sensor. You can test the circit by putting the sensor cable to the batter " - " and see if it reads max temperature. ill try to test the thermostat. thank you. i got white smoke but the sparks is clean and dry. what should i do? i got to repair my electricity so i know when the trucks temper is over Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Overheating possible causes: Lack of water circulation... Internal rad core plugged with hard water (calcium) deposits.. Lower rad hose age softened and collapses from water pump suction Thermostat failed. Loose or glazed fan belt slipping Lack of air circulation... Missing fan shroud or belly pan Exterior of rad blocked by dirt or leaves, bugs, plastic bag/paper Clutch fan excessively slipping. Other: Blown head gasket Ignition timing retarded Carb running lean Incorrect valve lash Brakes dragging 1 Quote Link to comment
Guest taherprasetyo Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Overheating possible causes: Lack of water circulation... Internal rad core plugged with hard water (calcium) deposits.. Lower rad hose age softened and collapses from water pump suction Thermostat failed. Loose or glazed fan belt slipping Lack of air circulation... Missing fan shroud or belly pan Exterior of rad blocked by dirt or leaves, bugs, plastic bag/paper Clutch fan excessively slipping. Other: Blown head gasket Ignition timing retarded Carb running lean Incorrect valve lash Brakes dragging ill check these all at the morning. thanks. here my L13 photo %5BIMG%5Dhttp://i835.photobucket.com/albums/zz279/Moch_Taher_Agus_Prasetyo/IMG_20140206_084915_zpsc3fef7c8.jpg there loose rad cap and cutted down rad to engine pipe. gasket in good condition. havent test my coil fire. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 7, 2014 Report Share Posted February 7, 2014 Looks like the J13 engine. Quote Link to comment
Guest taherprasetyo Posted February 8, 2014 Report Share Posted February 8, 2014 Looks like the J13 engine. Ahhh yes, its J13 :blush: Quote Link to comment
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