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521 'King Cab'


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Gene-This cooler is what I believe to be an Allstate/Firestone brand, most are made by Thermador.

 

Wayno-Yeah my tires do scrub occasionally, haven't rolled my fenders. Every now and then it will catch the lip and bent it down..

 

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Eric-The entire cab floor was cut for the body drop, rear cab wall was cut and overlapped, rear trans tunnel was raised slightly and the front was sectioned at the upper firewall.

 

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Yea, mine has caught also, it made a lot of noise when it did it, I rolled the inside of the fenders, I had to, it was almost touching just sitting there not even moving.

82E6FC01-5D4F-43CD-B71A-E78D7FC2E77D-13269-000011AB79B86D73.jpg

It looks like you have no heater/defroster, or have you relocated it somewhere else?

8713D392-3780-4312-B822-F7CB3F7BFDF2-13269-000011A9E15E4B3D.jpg

It's a pain in the ass Eric, but it sure does look good when done properly.

532D8E2D-17BC-484C-8C1B-6FBEA74E5A33-13269-000011A9C6A53930.jpg

And it was such a good job the it dosn't even need covered. allhail_zps16d8249e.gif

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Wayno-no longer any room for the heater box, due to the sectioned firewall. The park brake handle would also need to be re-engineered, it can no longer be mounted using factory holes..I may just mount a handle between the seats.

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The heater box doesn't have to be there, it can go anywhere you want it, it can be moved sideways to where the parcel tray was, pop two holes in the firewall and pipe the heater hoses over there.

The tricky part is the defrosters, either you have to have long hoses going to the defrosters, or you block off the pass. side and make a "Y" for your side and then pipe them to the defrosters.

The other connection from the front of the heater box to the cab air inlet I have seen done by using a black drier hose, it is flexible, so it can be shaped to the above oval hole connection, and then connected to the round hole on the face of the heater box by using some fabricated connection, it should be easy enough since it has a ring on the face to use/make the connection.

If I find the photo of this setup on ratsun, I will post it here.

 

I might also suggest using a 720 e-brake assembly with the cable, it might fit in there and the cable comes out of the firewall a few inches higher pointing straight forward, then the rear connection is made by welding a mount for the cable on the frame going sideways, and connecting to the stock center "L" shaped arm after it has been lengthened a few inches, it's all about fabricating what you need, which isn't anything new to you considering what you have made there, a body dropped kingcab 521, the epitome of fabrication.

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  • 11 months later...

What's up Ratsun!! I'm still Minitruckin. The 521 is chillin'..haven't driven her much due to poor valve seals. I've been tinkering with the chopped 521 and 720 with what little time I've had...so much going on in life these days, too many projects

 

 

I did add some 'sleepy eyes' a couple weeks ago...

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A couple recent pics...

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@ mrbigtanker-you Sir, have a pair of sweet 521's and it was nice meeting u @ the SWDP BBQ....I too, am named Raymond

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What's up Ratsun!! I'm still Minitruckin. The 521 is chillin'..haven't driven her much due to poor valve seals. I've been tinkering with the chopped 521 and 720 with what little time I've had...so much going on in life these days, too many projects

 

 

I did add some 'sleepy eyes' a couple weeks ago...

3BDC4841-0EAD-4FEC-8211-9E92A05C9BCE-265

 

A couple recent pics...

E38ED236-C6F5-4018-8BD7-CCAE7BF8DF79-265

F70857D5-C999-4314-A287-BD5FEBD9C1FB-265

 

@ mrbigtanker-you Sir, have a pair of sweet 521's and it was nice meeting u @ the SWDP BBQ....I too, am named Raymond

Yes sir i remember you,well its good to have you back,you got to get off the hill and move your ass down to corona,so you will be closer to us.Or at least make it out to the inland empire meet,it would be great to have you.

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  • 1 year later...
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Time for an update..
I did some work on it back in July, but I never posted it. I finally replaced the head gasket/valve seals. No more smoke!! :thumbup: Runs great! Sorry no photos of that, but you all know what a L series looks like torn down.
Rebuilt my master cylinder:
1B713A49-0893-42F0-B952-F1488432823F.jpg

Finally!! After years of not having a park brake I installed one. When the truck was body dropped, the firewall was sectioned right were the old brake mount was and since I am on a 620 chassis the cable setups are different..but I got it to work..
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I drilled the mount out of my parts truck and tacked it in:
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^^You can also see the 620 portion of this setup^^ I cut the lower end off of a 620 handle setup and bolted it to the firewall, allowing me to use the existing cable setup on the 620 chassis. The cable clevis on the handle is also 620.

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Works great!!

I swapped out my cluster face for a rare 411 model:
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411 cluster on the bottom...notice the black face w/chrome trim around arrows and gauges

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^^ I wasn't a fan of the early yellow/amber turn arrows^^ I've always liked green, so I fixed that with candy green spray paint:

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Treated the cluster to LED's, the top photo shows green 194 bulbs with globes removed, bottom pic shows WLED-GHP5 from superbrightleds
These are poor photo's, pictures make it look too bright with 'hot spots'. It glows nicely in person!

And finally, I redid my bamboo panels w/MDF backing:
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^^Here's a cheap trick^^ I used contact paper/drawer liner to seal my doors!

 

Cheers!

-Ray

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I like that looking good. Let me know if you need parking brake parts I have all mine that I ripped out of my truck..since I went the wildwood route I removed it..

 

I think I am going to do the lokar set up hand brake also since I got the buckets with the real estate to do it.the dam NOS bottle mount fit.lol that has got to go in the bed now.

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Very Nice build!

 

I am working on a 521 cab, that has a rusted out floor.  I am thinking of upgrading the brakes, and master cylinder.  

right now, I have the cab stripped, and even the brake, and clutch pedal box is out of the cab.  I am thinking now is the time to put in a 620 or a 720 pedal box, to allow more spacing between the master cylinders.  

 

Can you take pictures of the master cylinders in your "king cab" 521 truck?   

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Here you go Daniel, my spacing is still tight...the bleeder screw was hitting the clutch master so it had to be trimmed. They are 620 components (13/16), no booster as you can see...just gotta push the pedal a little harder, not a big issue. I ran all new metric line just above the trans tunnel.

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^^ Here is a better pic of my steering setup, shortened the shaft and added a u joint, then mated it to a 720 TILT column. It is splined, so it still has the ability to collapse 1 in. if necessary. I don't use the tilt feature much, but when body dropping, the added joint was necessary and tilt column was available for use.

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