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2 door is home


raceneely

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We can make more as replicas, I'm trying to figure out if its easier to start with an original 4 dr. door shell and expand it, or if its easier to do one from scratch in composite. the wind wing is different, but that would not be noticeable, you could use a wind wing from a 4 door. The stainless trim is the biggest obstacle I see right now. I'm staring at it daily.

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I have the bag if you still need one. 

 

I have a mounting bar for the kangaroo bag that I got in a box of micellaneous Datsun parts a long time ago.  Mounting bracket, under dash button with its mounting bracket, one spritzer nozzle and the box it came in.  No bag.  As far as I am concerned they are yours.  Too bad the Torrance meet dissolved into idiot tantrums and burnouts and was "voluntarily" banned on PD request or I could just hand them to you.  Next painless transfer would be at the next JCCS.  Any pressing need before then?

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We can make more as replicas, I'm trying to figure out if its easier to start with an original 4 dr. door shell and expand it, or if its easier to do one from scratch in composite. the wind wing is different, but that would not be noticeable, you could use a wind wing from a 4 door. The stainless trim is the biggest obstacle I see right now. I'm staring at it daily.

 

And the next obstacle would be to get wing wing rubber gaskets.  Hope you have some luck on that.

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I have the bag if you still need one. 

 

 

I have a mounting bar for the kangaroo bag that I got in a box of micellaneous Datsun parts a long time ago.  Mounting bracket, under dash button with its mounting bracket, one spritzer nozzle and the box it came in.  No bag.  As far as I am concerned they are yours.  Too bad the Torrance meet dissolved into idiot tantrums and burnouts and was "voluntarily" banned on PD request or I could just hand them to you.  Next painless transfer would be at the next JCCS.  Any pressing need before then?

 

 

411s dont use a washer bag, they have a sguare bottle with the pump built into the bottom. the bag will work, but wont be proper. and why put the alt underthe car on the axle... you only charge when driving, and it will charge at way different rates depending on vehicle speed, motor speed is mostly consistant between 2000-4000, the rear axle will see 0-4000......

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Erich,

 

It is an old wives tail that the car needs to be charging all the time. We put alternators on our race cars off of the rear diff that only race over 45 minute sessions or had extensive electronics in them. Most of our SCCA / Trans Am or NASPORT type series cars that ran less time sessions we would not even run a charge system. We put them on the charger in the paddock between sessions. On all of our current B-sedan 2.5 challenge 510's we do not run alternators at all. They run at 7000-8800 RPM for 30-35 minutes without a hiccup on electronic type ignitions. So the point is ........Driving in stop and go will charge well enough with a deep cycle battery for a street car with headlights etc, and the pulley size is adjusted to compensate for the RPM difference. Its an easy mod. I have used the Suzuki Swift /Samurai type mini Alternators with regulators built into them. They hang nice on the pumpkin with a Hydro Cut steel bracket. Ill make two kits and you can have one, then you wil be a believer. :)

 

Neely

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Erich,

 

It is an old wives tail that the car needs to be charging all the time. We put alternators on our race cars off of the rear diff that only race over 45 minute sessions or had extensive electronics in them. Most of our SCCA / Trans Am or NASPORT type series cars that ran less time sessions we would not even run a charge system. We put them on the charger in the paddock between sessions. On all of our current B-sedan 2.5 challenge 510's we do not run alternators at all. They run at 7000-8800 RPM for 30-35 minutes without a hiccup on electronic type ignitions. So the point is ........Driving in stop and go will charge well enough with a deep cycle battery for a street car with headlights etc, and the pulley size is adjusted to compensate for the RPM difference. Its an easy mod. I have used the Suzuki Swift /Samurai type mini Alternators with regulators built into them. They hang nice on the pumpkin with a Hydro Cut steel bracket. Ill make two kits and you can have one, then you wil be a believer. :)

 

Neely

 

i know that they dont have to charge all the time, but it just seems odd. and the race cars arent stop and go....... just go. and i know about pulley size compensation.... heres the billet pulley i made fr my gm alt on my sss. i was cooking alts, went thru 3-4 then changed the pulley and never had an issue... if memory serves correct it was like 3.25-3.5 inch dia...

 

IMG_0206.jpg

 

IMG_0205.jpg

 

IMG_0202.jpg

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sweet, don't worry it works, deep cycle battery is the key too, you need reserve for the stop and go issues. ill cut you an extra bracket, and give you the part number on the alternator and belt, you can machine your own pulleys if I give you a drawing. the trick is when you weld the steel pulley around the driveshaft to get it square. I can weld that for you if you want.

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i could do that. also i have a deep cycle. its the odessy 1700mj its got a 142 minute reserve. i wouldnt worry about making me a bracket, im running the q45 vlsd in my next project and like my gm one in the sss. but that does give me ideas for my supercharged vg30de so i can hide the sc down in the accesory drive and be able to close the hood.......

 

bat_zpsf496c884.png

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