69 4door 510 in Maine

[housew]

very cool. Seeing as i like cars in general, datsun, tracks, camping, and beer. I will be sure to bump it right to the top of my list of things to do. Still can't make this year, but hopefully next year :)

[housew]

No real progress over the weekend. I hit a couple walls in my gauge cluster project and I drove it around a bit. I trying really hard not to start any projects that take so long i won't be able to drive it at least once a week. I did pick up some new black vynil to recover my parcel tray now that i have it out. Should be super simple and look a lot better.

 

wall 1) electronic speedometer sensor.

Intellitronix supplied an electronic speedometer sensor. it resmebles the end of a cable so you should be able to just screw it into the tranny. Problem being my sr20det tranny had a electronic speedometer sensor from the factory (no place to screw said sensor in). This might not be a problem if the gauge cluster plays well with the stock sensor and i don't really see why not. Both are 3 wires power in, ground and signal (stock one is grounded through the body so there isn't actually a wire) Power comes from a switched source (key on) and im pretty sure is just a prox sensor that pulses the signal line back to the cluster. Cluster takes the pulses and counts them. The cluster is programable so you can set the pulses per mile (8k-32k ppm range) so it should work, so long as both sensors work like i think they do it should work.

back up plan is http://www.summitracing.com/parts/izl-s9020/overview/ so for ~$110 my speedometer will read off the gps and i can swap tires / rear end gears at will without reprogramming. I figure by the time i get the 83 280zx pinion ill be most of the way (costwise) to just getting this unit.

 

wall 2) oil pressure sending unit.

In order to get any tool on the old oil pressure sending unit to get it out, i must remove the oil filter, and i can't haha. I'd like to be able to do an oil change anyways. Oil filter is not in the best location really. Under the intake manifold, begind the altenator, and in front of / on top of the motormount / crossmember. I can't spin it off by hand (i have done almost every other filter ive encountered by hand), I can't get a traditional oil filter wrench on there, there is no straight line to use a belt, and my local auto parts place didn't have an end cap wrench small enough (tinyest filter i've ever seen). I ended up getting this universal end wrench that works on cam action and its completely useless. (similar to this http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-JAWS-UNIVERSAL-OIL-FILTER-WRENCH-KD-3288-/251304928245) It looks like it would work great on paper, but i cant get it to actually grip the filter for the life of me. So im thinking i'll just stab it with a screw driver and use the handle to spin it off (old destructive method) IF i can get a screw driver and a hammer anywhere near it. I am NOT removing the intake to change the oil.

 

wall 3) fuel sending unit

I don't think my stock fuel sending unit works. I tried testing the resistnace and i couldn't find a complete loop (i assumed from the output post to the guge to the neg bat terminal) I know the entire gas tank isn't grounded (i assume it should be?) and the sending unit body isn't either. I need to figure that out too, but its less important.

 

 

anyone have comments or sugestions? Way to test the speed sensors to see if they work the same? way to test the fuel sender unit? place to get the tiny oil filter end wrench i need?

[housew]

just in case anyones reading this, or at least for my records haha.

 

wall 1) still haven't tested it or figured out how to test the sensors since its still on jack stands. I did talk to an electrical engineer at work and im thinking it will probably work.

 

wall 2) I got the oil filter off with the three jaw cam type. I ended up covering the "tips" in electrical tape to help the initial grip, and that's all it needed. Not being able to look up a silvia in the autoparts store catalog of oil filters i have cross-referenced the number from my removed oil filter and discovered that if i get a filter for a 94 toyota corolla it should fit my sr20det, I still haven't gotten the sensor out since i will need to remove the motor mount, make a stubby ~24mm wrench, or hopefully my big vice grips will take care of it.

 

wall 3) pretty much discovered my fuel sending unit is toast. Going to drive the gas out of it and remove for cleaning, if cleaning doesn't help, i will modify a 240sx unit to fit.

[housew]

when i had my rear seat out due to locking my keys in the trunk, i had access to the parcel tray and i couldn't help but remove it. It was UGLY, and i wanted to recover it. It was pretty low on my list, but since it was right in front of my face, i took it out. sorry for the ill-lit, one handed, crappy cell phone Oics

 

Oic of how it was in the car. Originally just black vinyll, just sitting out in the sun. It was pretty crispy, fragile, and obviously hardly there. The substance is just fiber board so this whole thing could be reproduced for <$30 from homedepot / fabric store.

 

this is what it looked like from the bottom:

 

the original vinyl was just wrapped around the back side and stapled. I removed the staples with a knife. You can see the clips that hold it down. You can reach under the metal part of the shelf in the trunk and squeeze them and the pop right out.

 

 

 

[rusty12ver]

I would of thought that an oil filter from a sentra se-r or a g20 would work. Fr-sport Sells the filters, as well as courtesy nissan. Hope that helps, liking the gauges.

[housew]

your probably right on with the se-r / g20. I got a whole slew of PNs from zilvia.net and imma try to get one at napa in a hurry. Seems silly to drop the $15 on the k&N filter, but it would be super nice to have the 1" hex on the tip of the filter so i could know for sure i could get it off again. Doesn't seem like a bad investment given the filter location

[Nuclear Water Boy]

Odd that you can't grip the oil filter and spin it off. I have no issues removing mine but then I have the S14 not S13 where my intake sits higher. I use FRAM PH6607 oil filters, have been for years no problem plus the filter can has that black ruff coating for grip. Sentra SE-R or G20 oil filters? ya I forget which but one of them has a slightly smaller thread and won't fit the RWD SR.

[housew]

yea, the car came with an stp s4967 which cross referenced to a 94 corolla,

 

also cross references to
OEM #1016467
NAPA Gold #1394
WIX #51394
WIX #51396 (.405" longer)
John Deere #AM107423
Purolator #L14476
Fram #PH4967
STP #S4967
Super Tech (Walmart brand) #ST4967
Toyota #90915-YZZF1
Valvoline #VO40
K&N #HP1003

 

and im sure there are others. that hp1003 is the one with the nut i was hoping to use.

 

im have never had a problem spinning off a filter, but i just cant fit my hands in a good way with the intake manifold, motor mounts, fender well, ext. That three prong wrench did work, but i was thinking K&N already solved the problem with the hex nut on their filters. It shouldn't be a problem anyways so long as i don't put it on with super retard strength.

[housew]

oil sending unit has been installed. It is open loop (no continuity) at 0 psi (engine off) which isn't necessarily a bad thing cause i don't know what the gauge cluster is looking for OR oh the sending unit works, but im hoping its not dead right out of the box. I plan on sending an e-mail or putting a call into intellitronix today. The sending unit is so large in diameter that i can screw it into the stock location cause the OD of the SU and the oil filter would interfere. I had to add a nipple and elbow from the hardware store to move it out of the way.

 

water tempature sending unit was also installed. The hole in the center of the adaptor i got needed to be enlarged, but that didn't prove to be an issue..

 

still need to install the boost gauge sending unit and wire it up. Going to tee into the vac line right before the fuel pressure regulator unless some one objects.

 

so the cluster is about ready to be plugged in and bolted up. Need to pick up some plug connectors at the hardware store and should be pretty easy to finish it off.

 

also got my tires mounted and balanced :)

[housew]

any clue how to change the title of a thread? Mines says 1970 and its really a 69.

 

also picked up my tires and wheels last night, and got a miniscule amount of wiring for my cluster done. Hopeing to set aside some time and see if the new sneakers fit, and get the cluster finished up and back in the car so i can bomb it around. I miss it big time.

[jeph]

any clue how to change the title of a thread? Mines says 1970 and its really a 69.

 

also picked up my tires and wheels last night, and got a miniscule amount of wiring for my cluster done. Hopeing to set aside some time and see if the new sneakers fit, and get the cluster finished up and back in the car so i can bomb it around. I miss it big time.

 

go to the first post you made and click edit and then full editor and it will let you change the title

[Cpl620]

Holy text walls. That uster is BA though. Looking forward to seeing the rest of this.

[housew]

go to the first post you made and click edit and then full editor and it will let you change the title

done! thank you much

 

Holy text walls. That uster is BA though. Looking forward to seeing the rest of this.

im guessing a "text wall" is when i write too much and don't post enough pics? Duely noted haha

[housew]

and on with the oics....

 

Picked my new wheels / tires up last night in hopes they would fit.

left => right: old front/back, new front, new back

 

old stacked on new back tire, MUCH bigger

 

rear fit is stellar, just how i hoped it would be. excuse the ghettoness of my working space, its a tent with carpet

 

front has too much poke:

 

 

at ride height I have about an inch of up-travel before the tire will contact the fender. I got this contact by placing the front wheel on a ramp and basically flexing the car out to get as much weight as possible on that corner and it hit. 1" might be plenty for driving around, doesn't sound like a lot but before i changed the tires I only had 1.25" of clearance under the car, and it didn't touch down on swoops or bumps so it wasn't using that much.

 

so front options are

1) try to find a rim with less offset that matches (probably not happening). Looks like i'd need +13-19 instead of 0

2) see how much i can get the top in with camber plates (currently have but not installed)

3) add bump stops so the suspension bottoms out softly before the tire rips the fender apart

4) stretch the fender slightly (still have access to fender roller)

5) swap in actual 280zx struts (seeing this fitment im believing i may have 200sx struts which is what the PO told me they were, just didn't look like it)

 

or any combination of the above.

[Nuclear Water Boy]

Ya, the 280ZX struts will solve your problem easily. Summit Point was awesome guys sorry you Mainers missed it, but there is always 2015. John Morton came to our camp and hung out for a while and signed our banner. Qwik510 is posting pics at http://www.eastcoastdatsun510.com/  while in the pits Dave, Keith and I walked into him so we hung around and just talked cars, 510s and such. John's wife Silvia is a blast and a very fun person hell their both good people.

 

The weather was killer and we got three HOT! laps for $5. Full drifts in the carousels and full 4th gear run down the straight. Don't know how fast I was going as I can't see my speedo past 80mph and my GPS could not find a signal :angry: F'K!! But that Camero Pace car could not walk away from Dave, Keith or I but we did walk away from the pack hehehe!!!

[Dime Dave]

Try contacting Sherwood Racing Wheels out in Owego, NY. I bet they can change the offset on the front wheels for you and reset them to where you need them.

 

I just had them build a set of 15x13 rims for a rat rod project, cheap at $89/ea. They custom build and repair, it would be worth a conversation with them.

 

contact@sherwoodracingwheels.com

 

607-687-2991

[housew]

thanks for the link dave, ill try to get in contact with them.

 

the bummer is they were already made to order and i asked if they could go more positive than 0 on the 15x7 and they said they couldn't. I would have ordered +12 if i had the chance.

 

I don't see why not though, It looks like the center is pressed to a certain dish and they just weld them in where they need to. Since they can't change the dish depth they may run out of barell at 0 on a 15x7, although it looks like they could have pushed it out some to me.

 

I really need to get on identifying my struts better. I'll have to post up a bunch of pics.

[housew]

i contacted sheerwood racing wheels told them i wanted either new 15x7+15 d window steelies or to have my centers cut out and rewelded and haven't heard anything back.

 

I'm thinking i can get away with just the camber plates. Camber would still less than the rears and i think i can gain enough to tuck them in dandy. I'm thinking ill try to get those on over the weekend. I currently don't have much if any negative camber in the front so a little bit shouldn't hurt. What are some people running for numbers? Whats stock?

[housew]

day packed full of fails.

 

fail 1) my gauge cluster physically doesn't fit in the car. It would, but there is no way to get it in with the brackets they way they are. I think i can trim them and make it work

 

fail 2) the oil pressure sending unit i got with my cluster came DOA. Contacted them to see if they would give me a replacement. I can buy one from summit for $25, but you expect the stuff to work when you buy it new

 

fail 3) boost gauge doesn't appear to register. There is a chance i need to drive to car to get it into a range to show up (I believe its in bar instead of PSI like i ordered) so i would need to get to ~2psi for anything to show up, and  I might not be able to get there without load. We shall see

 

fail 4) fuel pressure sending unit. pretty sure its inop. I now have continuity from the body of the sender unit to the negative battery terminal, but no continuity between the sending unit post and its body (see pic), which to me means that its crap, at least in the position and need to be cleaned or replaced.

 

 

fail 5) camber. is there a way to adjust the camber in a stock setup? cam bolt on the LCA mount? make tension rod longer or shorter to decrease angle on LCA? My passenger and driver side seem to have a bit different poke. Driver side looks like it would tuck fine in the fender, where as the passenger side isn't that close. I also ripped one side apart to see what i was working with and my camber plates don't fit, so that's for another post.

[housew]

a little bit of good.

 

finished the wiring of my gauge cluster  (almost nothing works still for various reasons, but its a lot cleaner. And i also used electrical tape (kinda ghetto) as a curtain to block out any extra light and dust from behind the cluster. The result is its extra dark when its not on, looks better, and should stay cleaner in there.

 

 

 

and its now sitting on all 4 of its new wheels and tires, even if the fronts dont fit perfect

[housew]

and coilovers:

is it common for people to bring their inserts or camber plates to the machine shop to get them to play nice? Can you buy sets that play nice out of the box and i just got some crap parts?

 

some dims:

struts:

have a pn on them 141-1 (nissan symbol) L

they look like they were cut and shortened above the stock spring perch. 

hi tech dim drawing:

 

cartridge:

155 (6") travel

m12 x25mmL at the top

22mm diameter rod

19mmd x 24mmL top hat seat?

hi tech dim drawing:

 

 

camber plate:

17.5mm hole through

20mmL hole

with a bushing that is 17.5od abd 18long, with a 22mmd x 6mml collor

pic and hi tech dim drawing

 

 

 

so basically the question is, do i machine my inserts so they have an extended m12 section so i can fit a nut on top and run em, do i but a new set of inserts (cause why not) and machine them if necessary in the same fasion, or are there camber plates that i should just buy to work with this junk?

 

im guessing taking it down to use my plates wouldn't be pricey, and easiest, just making sure a trip to the machine shop was fairly normal and not totally hack.

[INDY510]

It looks like you don't have coilovers..... so any camber plates won't work (I think) ... and I doubt they will fix your fitment problem anyway

 

280zx struts would definitely solve your fitment problem, but you'd still need coilovers and maybe camber plates .... it's not going to be a cheap conversion (after brakes and RCA's)

 

Sorry ... I thought you already had 280zx struts, when I told you what wheels would fit

[housew]

Np, I thought I had 280zx struts too.

 

I have coil overs and camber plates in my box of parts (not on the car) and I realize camber plates are essentially useless without smaller diameter springs (Although I could move the top in about 1/4" without interference). They will be going on eventually since the springs in it are stock 200sx springs heated with a torch for ride height from the po. I figured I'd do them at the same time and was just trying to figure out what's involved.

 

My tires are really close to tucking. The drivers side probably will as is, and it definitely will after camber plates (I don't need inches, more like 1/4"

 

What are RCAs?

[INDY510]

Roll Center Adjusters (RCA) or bump steer spacers ... I think they are necessary for 280zx struts, to correct the spindle angle, but 200sx struts use different sized RCA's.. because the bottom of 200sx struts are different than 280zx or 510 struts

 

... they wouldn't fix your problem.. you might even already have them, under your struts

 

[housew]

thanks indy, just hadn't heard them abreviated before. I was under the understanding that these just moved the position / angle of the LCA / steering rod down so it would be closer to the stock geometry and stock or better roll center. This would have everything to do with the ride height chosen (and the Height of the lca mount, Its rumored that 1969 cars have higher LCA mounts so require less spacer) and almost nothing to do with which strut housing you planned on running (chopped 510, 280zx, 200sx ect). Feel free to correct me, that's just my understanding of them from my VERY limited reading.

 

so to recap what i want to do.

1) I want to keep my 200sx struts. why?

1A) I don't really want to swap to 280zx struts / brakes. I wouldn't mind, but i can't seem to find any local (couple sets a couple hundred miles away for a couple hundred dollars at JYs, and more online)

1B) I don't see a big break upgrade from the 240z stuff i have to the 280zx stuff. Vented rotor would be nice, but my car has plenty of break

1C) my lower control arm angle doesn't seem bad by looking at it, car isn't darty, tire wear isn't bad ect, no excessive body roll, I can measure and see if i want RCAs, but that would be an add on no matter what struts i run.

 

2) I want to install coil overs and camber plates. why

2A) I already have them, why not put em on

2B) adjustable ride height would be nice

2C) Smaller diameter spring would be required for much camber adjustment

2D) want to bring camber in so tires will tuck (don't need much)

2E) my current springs are ghetto

 

 

so this brings me back to the question of how to make the camber plates fit and the three options i think i have.

 

1) machine down the diameter under the m12 thread to locate my camber plate and give good thread engagement

 

 

2) but new inserts (cause the ones i have look pretty ghetto and if i bought new ones i'd know what they are) and then get them machined if necessary

 

3) try to find camber plates that will work with this large diameter strut top.

 

 

 

 

I stole this pic from another thread, but it shows some struts with different tops. The 2x blue ones are 300zx and 280zx struts and have the large diameter, the 2x red ones are mr2 konis and have small diameter tops that look like they would work with my camber plates. Do they have the smaller diameter cause they are made for an m2, or because they are konis? are the VW rabbit ones the smaller, larger, or something other diameter up there?