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69 521 Build


earlyvws

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Been working on other things this week. Almost finished the roll pan. This turned into a bigger project then I was thinking. The bigger problem was I had about 5 different ideas for tail lights but I didn't have any to take measurements. Then at the last minute I was looking at my toyota forklift and it had these:

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So I used theses. They are not exactly where I wanted them because I would of had to cut into the bed. So this is bolt on and can go back to stock if I want to.

 

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So I think I will make a trim ring to square the hole and close the gap because the lense taper on the sides.

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And the best part is they say Japan on them.

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So back to the frame tomorrow.

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The roll pan is pretty simple. I will get pics of it today and show what I did. It was done weeks ago. But I could not figure out tail lights. I figured if I didn't like the tail lights I settle on I wanted to be able to go back to stock ones.

 

The most difficult part about this roll pan is welding on thin gauge sheet. If u can do that without warping the crap out of it u can make it pretty easily.

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I was typing this whole write up on the roll pan and it disappeared on me. So I will do it in smaller chunks.

 

I made this this way because it was quick and easy. There is certainly more complicated ways to do this. I like it because it is adjustable to the width and u don't have to be precise.

 

So first u need to measure where to place ur bends. I am using a scrap pieces for this demo cuz I didn't take pics when making the real one.

 

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Quick note about welding. I weld really hot. No stitch welding. Only a series of tacks. Here is a pic of the back of the end piece I find this method keeps distortion down and prevents warping.

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If I welded at the suggested setting I would warp the shit out of it cuz I would actually introduce more heat into the part cuz u have to stay on it longer to get this kind of penetration,

 

My setting for 20 ga 023 wire argon co2

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miller recommendations

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And this Lincoln piece of shit would give me a lot of difficulty cuz the controls suck. I find either too hot or too cold.

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I guess I should mention u probably need to drill holes to use to plug weld. I have a spot welder so I forgot to mention this earlier. so do that now. Then clamp ur 3 pieces to a piece of angle iron and plug weld it together.

 

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I guess I should mention to put the 3 pieces to the bed first and mark the overlap so that u know where to clamp it on ur angle iron. This is the adjustable part.

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Make some close outs for the license plate area just like the end pieces and this will give u the outer skin complete.

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So if u are going to cut holes and mount tai lights then u should make a brace or close out the back side. For me I made boxes and after they were welded in it really strengthened it up.

 

If u use 22 ga or 24 then add more bends or more structure.

 

Here are the pics of the actually piece now. Still have a few more details to do. But mostly done.

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u need to be very careful laying beads that long on that frame rail ..especially with the4 notch cut out .. u will curl a rail ....... let me know how your bed fits..........not digging roll pan........ just not my cup of tea...... makes me feel like i will see a louvered hood when i walk to the other side ...lol

 

 

 

side note i have owned lots of roll pans on various trucks ......just kinda ran its course with me ......

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Thanks for the advice jrock. I was careful when doing the welding. I took some measurements off the other frame and compared to this one after welding and I am 1/16" off on right side and 1/8" off on left. So the right side could be chalked up to measuring error/ frame differences/ or deflection. Left side probably deflection. I think it will be within reason, going to try to mock up the cab and bed on all four wheels tomorrow night if I don't run out of time.

 

I'm with you on the roll pan. I'm not 100% sold on it, but it was more of a necessity for now. I don't have a good set of tail lights and I didn't want to have to fab something up after I painted the bed so I did it now and made it so I could put stock lights back later if I find a really nice set. For now I'm just gonna see it through. I'm actually starting to regret adding the side rockers. Starting to embrace the unfinished look of the truck. But that is all just beginners mistakes!

 

So for tonight I got the rear leaf spring mount located into the frame rail. Doing it how jrock suggested and only the rear. If I were to do this again I would just cut the frame rails off after and make new ones. The amount of time and the scary removal was not worth the trouble.

 

So here is how I did it.

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Ran out of time to put in the other support bar and need to finish welding the mounts. So if I can get that all done tomorrow I hope to fit everything and confirm the frame is ok. Then it's back to the front to finish that all up.

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Only had enough time to mock things up tonight, but glad I did. So the bad news is hardbody lowering leaf springs are not going to work unless u feel like a ton of work. As it turns out the eye's are aprox the same widths apart but the perch position is not. The hardbody has the perches exactly center between the eyes, the 521 the perch is something like 3" closer to the front eye, so the axle is pushed back and the wheel is not centered and the pumpkin will bottom out on the cross bar that the shocks bolt too.

 

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So it looks like I am going back to the 521 springs. What is the number of leafs people are taking out? 1 and the thick bar?

And it looks like no matter what I will have to run lowering blocks in order to keep moving forward. I am not going to invest more time to get around this problem on this truck. Maybe on the other one.

 

And a side not. My buddy stopped by tonight to give me something he says is cool. I like it but wonder if it is worth the trouble. Is this a really cool part or just in his head?

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If I use use it I guess I would have to weld up the dash, but what if it doesn't work. How common is it to have a bad switch of this style. He says 70's z car. I forget exactly what he said.

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First off 720 4x4 leaf springs and 2" blocks and you get about a 4" drop with out going through all that trouble,and second why would you want to switch to that light switch on the colum versus on the dash,now you have a hole to fill in,and if you want to spend time getting creative on a shroud to go around that,i would concentrate more on cutting down the steering colum about 3' if you have not already,If you want to go custom then go for it,but to me it does not seem worth all the trouble for it.

 

On another note its coming along real nice,what is your plan for a power plant?

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The switch was never in the plans. He brought it by tonight. I'm reluctant because it doesn't sound rare to me. I mean if it is a super rare part that is worth something then maybe.

 

I looked for the leaf springs u mentioned but I couldn't find any. I'm thinking now I just drill a hole in the right position on these and move the 2 little leaf spring perches over. The main reason for sticking with this is because I already have all the bushing figured out.

 

For now I'm going with the L20 that came with the truck. It ran and sounded healthy although it would not stay running, but I think that had more to do with the carb. I'm thinking of the dual weber 40's mainly to get to an electric choke at this point as I recently read somewhere on here that there is no power gain. What do u think. It looks like you are a motor guy judging your thread!

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You will gain some horse's but not a lot.But if you are a cruiser then you will do just fine with the L20b,get with Troy Ermish on getting a few more ponies out of it and you will be fine.One thing about the side drafts though is you cant beat the sound of the air rushing those carbs with just stacks on.Like some down draft 48's webers on a VW.

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as low as i am i had to move that rear upper shock x member ... it hit the pumkin reguardless...alot......but yeah thats not gonna work

 

 

theres a dual side draft set up with a electric choke?!?!?!?!?!?

 

 

u can ditch those upper u bolt retainers onthe rear end .... there gonna prohibit your notch from being utilized.......720 4x4xs are easy to find and dont remove the thick over load ... it will gain u nothing but the inability to haul anything big.....and removing it wont make it any lower......i think the two center ones in a 521 pack would be ok but i ditched mine long ago .... u sure your beds on right .... the axle tubes looked semi centered in your notch ... ????

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