true^^^^^^ i believe phixius has 720s and 3 inch degreed blocks
69 521 Build
Posted 24 January 2014 - 04:44 PM
It's very rare to find a ...
1/Datsun nut. ( they actually know and appreciate the work and expense that went into the build) and who also...
2/Can afford to buy it.
Posted 24 January 2014 - 06:32 PM
Well I don't know if it will work what I suggested about the control arms. I didn't measure anything, just going off the blue hands video. Where after he shortened the lower the unaltered upper seemed to fit. So I was thinking if that works then if I leave the lower the full length then the upper will be to short if bolted in the stock 521 location.
How do I find jrock build thread. Maybe trying on my computer as opposed to my phone, but I went to his profile and brought up topics, posts etc. but it only brings up a few. And with 7000+ posts may be crazy to shift through.
Yes the UCA will be to short by about 5/8ths of an inch to be exact, that's why I told you to lengthen them 3/4 of an inch, it gives you wiggle room, this is with a stock length LCA from a late disc brake 620 threw an early hardbody, I have the dual piston hardbody calipers on my 521 work truck, and I am using 521 14 inch rims on the front.
If you go with drop spindles, you will not be able to use stock 14 inch rims.
I have been driving around on my 521 disc brake conversion now for several years now, I have worked out all the issues I believe, but it is not the route I would suggest to most folks on here, as most will take short cuts and could end up in a wreck or even killing themselves or others, them damned 521 upper control arm mount bolts are to small for this disc brake conversion, I have had them break on me several times, I almost scrapped it at one point, but I am not one to admit defeat, but I was close.
Mike(Blue Hands) drilled his out and re-threaded them to the 720 bolts on that frame in his video, you see the holes are big in the 620/720/hardbody spindles, so when you use the 521 bolts to mount them, they move around and loosen the bolts, I have used sleeves in mine from day one, it did not help, they still worked loose, when loose they break when you even touch the brakes lightly, but you never know which time it will break, finally the threads were pulled out of the mount from me trying to keep them tight, now I have super long hard bolts that go all the way threw and have a washer and lock nut on the other side, when I pull the engine the next time, I will be drilling all of them and re-tapping them, until then I have it jury rigged like in the photo below, they have not broken since.
These are expensive bolts, and I just noticed that the shock hat is kinda bent up from them damned bolts breaking and the upper control arm hitting it.
This is my truck.
I also have power steering, see this thread for photos of how I did that.
This is my lowered 520, work in progress.
I guess I forgot, I have continued this build at another site, most of the rear lowering work and updates have been done in that thread.
- Dattokai likes this
Posted 24 January 2014 - 09:52 PM
Ok so I think what I have in mind might address the issue you mentioned. I am thinking of boxing the front, adding the correct nuts for the larger bolts, and moving the shock out (black lines showing cutoff.
I took a quick measurement, and it looks like I would have to shorten the upper control arm instead of lengthening. What sucks is I would really like to be working on this right now, but I got to utilize the good weather while I still can to get the body painted.
Also no luck on a tap 5/16"x24 so I can't mount the doors tonight. Have to try tomorrow.
Oh, btw been checking out everyone's builds. Some really cool shit you guys are doing. Did Jrock ever get a pic with the SSR's on? I looked at almost every page but somehow didn't see them on with tires. I think those rims really set that truck out nice.
Posted 24 January 2014 - 10:19 PM
This is what I did for my rear shackle drop, I am using 720 4X4 leafs.
Posted 25 January 2014 - 12:02 AM
- ]2eDeYe likes this
Posted 25 January 2014 - 01:57 AM
Here is another one of my cars I did about 4 years ago. Sold it to a friend and now it is going to Japan.
I can see why VW guys are liking these. I'm just getting burned out building VWs right now. I am in the middle of build a ghia vert for the wife, trying to finish the blue notch, have my other notch half way complete, and 2 more long term expensive projects. Over in VW land there are so many stock Nazi's and naysayers. You can't really stray to far from stock or you hear about it all the time. I know I tend to be the same, but I keep it to a select few cars. My blue Notch being one of them. Finding parts for that thing will drive you crazy. I bought a full correct OG interior from Germany for it. My bus (57 23 window) is going to put me in the grave. That thing cost so much money. My middle seat alone cost $3500. So this truck I feel free to do what I want. I'm the new guy who will probably make all the new guy mistakes. I'm just gonna build what I like. Maybe I will end up with the stupidest truck, but I will not know. Ignorance is bliss!
So where can I get some of these 720 4x4 leaf springs. There are none at the local pick and pulls right now. Do they sell them new somewhere?
I spent most of the night fixing all the captive nuts that I broke bolts in and test fit the lower valance (I guess that is what you would call it). I'm surprised it fit as good as it does. It was a twisted prezel when I took it off.
Posted 25 January 2014 - 08:35 AM
In Datsun speak, the lower valence is called an apron. Bad news, they bend easy, but that means they straighten easy, too.
I have more than one 521, and a few of these aprons, all bent to one degree or more. This is a fixture I made to hold the apron while I am working on it.
You need to get the curve on the lower part of the front fenders good. It can be a real pain to get the apron, and front fenders to have a good gap, if this curve is wrong. Once everything is good, the apron adds strength to the fenders and also the fenders to the apron.
Then the front bumpers has to be fitted. The two center brackets are attached to the bumper, and then slid in throught the apron, and bolted to the frame. The holes in the frame are the 5/16-24 you still need to get a tap for. Then the gap needs to be adjusted on both ends of the bumper, between the bumper, and apron. And then fit the two small brackets that hold the ends of the bumper. I do not think the rubber biscuits are still available, but it is just a round rubber block, with a hole in it. The inside one does not need to be perfect, just something to cushion the bolt. again a 5/16-24 bolt.
Be aware the two center brackets for the bumper bolt to the frame, and the two ends of the bumper bolt to cab sheet metal.
Posted 25 January 2014 - 09:58 AM
Posted 25 January 2014 - 10:30 AM
720 4x4 leaf springs can be found on ebay. Looks like there are some right now.
Welcome to the forum. It seems the 521 is becoming more and more popular. With the powder coating, how do you feel it does at seams and other tight crevices (like a curved panel coming into a straight panel, eg back of a wheel well to quarter panel)? Also, how well do later primer coats adhere?
One jump ahead of the lawmen
That's all, and that's no joke
These guys don't appreciate I'm broke
Posted 25 January 2014 - 02:39 PM
Ok, so I think I know what you are asking about for the powder primer. So first, I have not gone through the whole process. I have my 2nd notchback done in powder and now this truck. So technically speaking the truck will be my first attempt. SO as far as sanding goes. I sanded this out in 400 in about a minute. The first thing I noticed is I did not break thru on the hard edges. It sands very much like regular high build primer. It is pretty smooth like high build, maybe not as smooth. Don't know yet. Havn't done more then this section. In terms of top coats, from what I understand, you can paint your color coat right over this after sanding in 400. Chances are you will not cuz as in this example I have a few lows and highs, which will require some hammmer and dolly work and probably a skim coat and then some high build anyways.
If you are going to go straight to filler then scuff in 36 I was told, and filler can go right over it. In terms of powder primer vs regular powder coat, this is definatly different stuff. From what I am being told, there is no extra prep to this. Just treat it like any other primer/ sealer.
In terms of nooks and crannies. Here is a pic of a notchback door in powder, I will show you the indside of the door for the blue car (which was painted the traditional primers/ sealers/ etc, and the primered door.
As you can see it is covered very well. But here is where it really pays off:
Inside edge of the door bottom, completly coated even up the vertical wall that will never be possible to paint.
Blue notch door same area, I even shot straight down as much as possible, and look what was missed:
So basically. on the areas that you are going to see, you will probably sand down and still have the regular way of doing things. In the areas you are not going to paint, or can't paint, it will be coated. It is a thick coat. I was told by my powder coater that they have flattened panels to perfection with this stuff. They powder the part, block sand powder again block and again until all the lows are gone. Basically using it as filler. Of course we are talking about near perfect panels in that case.
Posted 25 January 2014 - 02:55 PM
I like the idea that the power is attracted to bare areas of the metal, electrostatically, and is attracted into impossible to spray areas.
How is the powder coating as far as rust preventitive, compared to a good epoxy primer?
Posted 25 January 2014 - 03:19 PM
I'm not an expert. Only can say what my coater is telling me. As far as I know it is an excellent sealer. In fact there are a couple of choices. The one I used is different then another option that has zinc. So in terms of rust protection it is suppossed to be very good. In terms of epoxy, I have used it several times. Here in Santa Clara you can no longer buy the good stuff. But with epoxy you have to do more work I find. If you get a non-sandable epoxy then you need to put at least 2 to 3 coats of sandable primer on the same time (24 HR window) generally speaking you would pick up you blasted parts, spend about 4 hours blowing out as much as you can. Shoot 2 to 3 coats of epoxy (about 3 hours) clean gun spray 2 to 3 coats of high build or something else that is sandable another 3 hours, so you have potentially 10 hrs to get to where this is and have less result, cuz there will still be areas you will not cover.
I stopped using epoxy a while back and just started using DTM primer. Transtar makes a nice one, I'm sure in your area you might find better, but here they banned everything good. I usually start with that and do my filler work then some high build block it etc. Then on paint day I start out with a nice sealer coat and shoot single stage wet on wet.
Talking about paint and welding is always a hot topic. So I am just explaining my process. I'm sure there are professional painters who will disagree with my process.
- thisismatt likes this
Posted 25 January 2014 - 05:23 PM
Thanks for the info.
I have been using PPG primers, on some stuff, a 1791/1792 wash primer, followed by PPG DPLF. I use a Shopline JP202, with activator for the high build surfacer, and then Omni MTK singlestage, or Dupont Centari single stage, with hardner. You absolutely must have an approved respirator with the Centari.
Honestly, even though it is a old acrylic paint formula, I really like the Centari.
But what I need is a heated shop, ideally with a paint booth.
Posted 25 January 2014 - 05:50 PM
Daniel, you should check into house of kolor kd3000 primer. It's a direct to metal primer that sands like a dream. Can be used as high build, medium build or a sealer.
Posted 25 January 2014 - 06:34 PM
I have used several brands of single stage. The best I have found is Limnco. It is made by BASF who makes Glasurit. Except it doesn't come with the Glasurit price tag. I have 2 gallons with hardner and reducer for my wife's ghia in Glasurit 22 line. It cost $1950. My blue notch is painted with Limnco single stage 1.5 gallons with reducer and hardner $310. Here is a pic of my doors about 20 mins after painting when it just glassses out. Shot in a garage so got a bit of dirt, but if it wasn't for dirt I would not be color sanding and buffing. Also the key to this paint is using an Iwata LPH400 with orange cap. Also I suspect it is the same shit just relabeled!
- ]2eDeYe likes this
Posted 25 January 2014 - 08:17 PM
I was at Pick and pull today to try to get some things and stumbled on these. They are a Izuzu Rodeo Back glass gas shock bracket. I took all 4 pieces but ended up only using 2.
Next get the driver side front hood strut from a 2000 Range Rover. Driver side only because it has next to no pressure and has a lock/ stop at the top range of motion. To release the stop you raise it up slightly higher and it releases the lock and retracts back. This shock is not like the others. It will not propel your hood up. That is the reason I am using it so it doesn't bend up the hood.
For now I am using sheetmetal screws but will get some nut inserts for it later.
Since I don't have a reference. Does it look like it will clear the motor?