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HELP ME!


Theonewhomeeps

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From the glass fuel filter over to the hard line connected to the pump. Looks like the pump already has a hose connecting it to the carb and assuming it is correctly tighten hose clamps on the lines and away you go. Seems to me the hard line would be on the outlet or pressure side. If the carb gets no gas then reverse the lines on the pump. Take a look it may say inlet and outlet on the pump.

 

Use all caution, this is gas, check for leaks when cranking.

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Good news, you have a solid state voltage regulator.

Bad news, you really need a cover for that High / low beam relay or else corroded points on the dual relays will haunt you. This arrangement is designed so that with driving / parking lights on, if you hit the high beam switch you go to low beam headlights. This is used in Japan to conserve battery capacity and also to save gasoline in city driving.

 

For the record, connect the hose from the thermostat housing to the top of the radiator before you get excited and try to start the engine!

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The battery sits in a black ABS plastic tray with 2 locating lugs on the bottom that fit the 2 holes in the flat area.  Hard to find but help in minimising fore and aft motion.  You can live without it, just get a good battery tiedown.  The tray also traps any acid spillover and saves your sheet metal.  A pinch of baking soda in the tray to neutralize any acid is also a good idea.

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In my experience with these cars, you may find it necessary to prime the lines from the tank to pump. The best way I have come up with to do this is to use an old bicycle grip with a hole in the end made with a screwdriver. Use a air compressor and a blower nozzle and mate the large inner grip face to the filler hole and push your blower nozzle into the pierced hole and gently blow while having someone else turn the motor over to get the pump pumping. Put the outlet hose into a suitable bottle so you can see when it catches. Go slow on the air as it can over pressurize the tank and blow excess fuel back out the filler and into your face. I also find that parking the car with front end pointing down my drive seems to help if the car won't be started for an extended time. Winter, for example. A little long winded but hopefully made sense.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=bmx+grips&source=images&cd=&docid=XnMOzZFO4KggWM&tbnid=lVno4sis0rVmoM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jensonusa.com%2FAme-TRI-BMX-Grips&ei=-ibcUve4BsuDogTJxoKwCg&psig=AFQjCNHwFT263lm88aZ_kZMNvuFTe6KtVA&ust=1390245954355607

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Mike is the fuel pump connected properly?

 

The roadster and RL411 pump is on the other side of the engine block but should be of identical construction.  The R engine fuel pump outlet is the hard line [this shows the hard line connected to what would be the type R outlet] which then goes to the carb inlets.  This hard line is connected to the inline fuel filter outlet.  The soft connection, to allow for vibration between the fender filter and the engine block goes to the fuel pump inlet.  The soft hose as shown goes to carb inlet.  Based on the inlet and outlet connectors of the type R engine fuel pump, this pump is connected in reverse.  A quick check, the inlet connector of the fuel pump has a "hose barb" for lack of a better word and the outlet has a threaded "AN" type of hard line connector.  If no one has "improved" the out of the box connectors this should help verify the correct connection.

 

J engine owners, please chime in based on your look at your engine connections to the fuel pump.

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