Buying a 411 Project

[Lunatik]

 

Actually is the coil... on top should have a white bar conected to the Positive side.

 

I have an RX2 that uses them... I wasnt sure if the Datsun uses the same capacitor. I just try it with one and see.

 

Thanks

[MikeRL411]

The Datsun 410 and 411 use the Hitachi old time conventional breaker point assembly.  THE CAPACITOR GOES ACROSS THE POINTS!  I don't give a s@@t what the RX2 uses.  The capacitor is there to protect the points from arcing over and welding, which sounds like what you are doing.  Go ahead!  Put all the capacitors you want on the coil.  Maybe you can get a wholesale price on replacement coils and point/capacitor sets.

[Lunatik]

Thanks Mike for the information... almost buy the wrong thing.

 

The progress has been slow, working long hours traveling and getting stuck in airports. This weekend I removed the gas tank and fuel line to get the gunk out of the interior... what a pain. Also cleaned and painted the trunk, there is a hole in the wheel well, when the car was getting used all dirt and debris ended up inside the trunk...

 

Before

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt276/urayohan/Mobile Uploads/20140118_091132.jpg

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt276/urayohan/Mobile Uploads/20140118_091135.jpg

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt276/urayohan/Mobile Uploads/20140118_091138.jpg

After

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt276/urayohan/Mobile Uploads/20140216_180145.jpg

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt276/urayohan/Mobile Uploads/20140216_180210.jpg

 

Also cleaned and installed the rear reflectors, installed the cleaned gas tank and fuel line again.

 

Now I have to figure out what to use to replace the gas tank filler tube, it was so cracked that broke in half through the seam. Does anyone have an idea how what to use as a aftermarket replacement?

 

Very well, I had a good time working in this car, as you can see I started removing the red paint of some areas to see how deep the preparation was; more to come.

 

Regards,

[Lunatik]

I think I added the picture wrong... let me try this time again.

 

Before

%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt276/urayohan/Mobile Uploads/20140118_091132.jpg

 

%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt276/urayohan/Mobile%20Uploads/20140118_091135.jpg

 

%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt276/urayohan/Mobile%20Uploads/20140118_091138.jpg

 

After

%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt276/urayohan/Mobile%20Uploads/20140216_180210.jpg

 

%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt276/urayohan/Mobile%20Uploads/20140216_180145.jpg

[MikeRL411]

LUNATIK said "Also cleaned and painted the trunk, there is a hole in the wheel well, when the car was getting used all dirt and debris ended up inside the trunk..."

 

Also look above the welded joint where the fender liner meets the rear fender!  Once the road crud starts infiltrating the rear wheel well opening to the trunk strange things [like rust] follow.  Remove the fiber "bridge" over the well behind the rear wheel arch inside the trunk to discover just how much road moisture [and salt] have found their way into this cavity.  I pulled and threw away the fiber "bridges" over the cavities between the wheel well arches and the rear panel of my 411.  Then after grinding all rust areas I could see on the outer fenders, using a hammer to insure that the sound metal had a little depression below the "true" metal conture and taping off the lower rear fender areas with good Duct Tape and thick polyurethane film [outside and outside the undercarrage],  I flooded the cavities with Naval Jelly and walked away for 2 days.  Flushed with too much hot water and removed the tape and plastic  membrane.  Flushed again with hot water, dried with compressed air, on a low humidity day, thorougly coated the interior and exterior surfaces of the cavity with Rustoleum, lined the cavity with polyurethane impregnated Serge fberglass  and when it cured. used low expansion urethane foam to fill the cavities [compressing the "trunk" surface with wet fingers before it set which formed a reasonably solid surface to replace the discarded fiber fill strips].  After waiting a weekend to ensure that the foam had stopped expanding I applied a layer of Marine Serge, not mat, Fiberglass and polyurethane epoxy [ sold for Fiberglassing small boats] to the lower exterior surfaces of the rear quarter fenders and multiple sanded the exterior to contour, used light weight Bondo to obtain final contour blend and painted the result.

 

Since this removes the "drain holes" inside the rear wheel wells, insure that you have a good seal in the weep holes that were formerly the drain for moisture that infiltrated the trunk.  Look at your trunk weather strip, it is a weak point!  Since you will have some foam left over, be sure to seal the inner rear fender seam to the wheel well joint inside the trunk!  You paid for the whole pressurizedcan, use it all.
 

[erichwaslike]

 

 

 

 

 

 

which hole are you refering to? the one in the spare tire well or the one in the passenger wheel well and quarter panel where i can se the ground?

[Lunatik]

which hole are you refering to? the one in the spare tire well or the one in the passenger wheel well and quarter panel where i can se the ground?

Yes, I have to repair that hole on the floor section... after cleaning all surface rust back to metal and sealing the trunk compartment... I cleaned the side pockets areas the ones that Mike described... it was full of stuff there... I like the idea of filling those holes on the side as well as Mike suggested.

 

Found an upholsterer today that is interested in getting the car fixed in the inside... does anyone know the right Interior color for a black 410?

 

Regards,

[Lunatik]

Hi guys, this week I continued working in the 410. Decided to continue treating the floor and looking for rust to repair. I don't have any before pictures but the car was very nasty inside. Grinded and treated the metal before POR 15... and this here is the result

 

Next weekend I will be making the floor section to replace the rusted one. Also decided to start installing the newer dash; painted the speedometer casing and tinkered with the fuel pump (no luck there) I will have to order a new one.

 

 

I ran into a little problem, I noticed that the speedometer needle was stuck lower than normal when I took apart the assembly it came off completely, it broke from the balancing rod. Now I have to find a way to repair that needle. Does anyone here have an extra cluster that I can use? I got the needle back in place and used a little to JB Weld to stick it together... but I know it wont last; here is a pic after I got it back in place...

 

 

Stay tuned for next week; lowering and installing new set of white walls... before goes for interior work.

 

Regards

[erichwaslike]

ive got a few speedos laying around. if you are interested in just replacing the gauge itself and not the whole cluster i can check them to see which ones work and then we can work out a deal if i find a good one. the cluster on your car is the early one and you cant swap in a newr one cause the early have the mounting tabs on the metal cluster cover, the new ones are on the cluster and the cover is plastic.

[Lunatik]

ive got a few speedos laying around. if you are interested in just replacing the gauge itself and not the whole cluster i can check them to see which ones work and then we can work out a deal if i find a good one. the cluster on your car is the early one and you cant swap in a newr one cause the early have the mounting tabs on the metal cluster cover, the new ones are on the cluster and the cover is plastic.

 

PM sent... Thanks

[Lunatik]

After few days of rain... I received the front coils, are 8-3/4" tall by my calculation its about 4 to 4-1/2" drop in the front. I have started taking the whole front end apart, cleaning the arms and pieces... to start putting everything together one more time.

 

Now compared with the stock 410

 

Tomorrow I will find out how low is going to be, then adjust the rear suspension. As for shocks... I read in another post about this Doesch Tech Nitro Slammer shocks; I might get a set this week.

 

Regards,

[erichwaslike]

damn that thing is gonna be slammed.... its not just a straight drop in what the spring size is, theres a ratio, so the 4 inches will turn into 6 or so.

ill try to measure the ones i cut that put the car an inch off the stops. they were about half the height of stock ones

[Lunatik]

damn that thing is gonna be slammed.... its not just a straight drop in what the spring size is, theres a ratio, so the 4 inches will turn into 6 or so.

ill try to measure the ones i cut that put the car an inch off the stops. they were about half the height of stock ones

Sweet! Like a mention this is for my wife "wink"... I still have to figure out the tire and shock combination to help the car ride smooth. This is uncharted territory for me...Im used to static slam a VW but never a Datsun...

 

I ve been planning in upgrading the front A-Arm suspension for a ford model, in that way I can use available ball joints... but I still looking for fitment options.

 

The rear is another story... I just wish I had enough time to continue working in the car during the week...

 

Regards,

[MikeRL411]

I ve been planning in upgrading the front A-Arm suspension for a ford model, in that way I can use available ball joints... but I still looking for fitment options.

 

 There are previous postings on new 411 ball joints!  Might not still be in stock but "search" is still your best friend.

[Lunatik]

Hi guys, I have been pre-occupied with work and life. Found some time to continue working with the 410; like all my cars, I finished the lowering job; 4 inches was good to make it level with the front; also now the car have brakes, all cleaned and refurbished.

 

Cleaned and painted the drive axle

 

Testing the lowering job.

 

Looking to build a set for this car, I have 3 different styles all incomplete

 

Cleaned, installed and posing

 

I hope you guys enjoy the pics, and Thanks erichwaslike for the speedometer, I had to modify the carrier a little to fit the speedometer but it works.

 

Regard

[MikeRL411]

Whatever you do, don't get rid of the "porthole" RL411 wheel cover without giving Erich a shot at it! He needs RL411 covers to complete a set the last time I saw him at the 2013 JCCS. Your lowering job looks great!

[Swedishcadillac]

After few days of rain... I received the front coils, are 8-3/4" tall by my calculation its about 4 to 4-1/2" drop in the front. I have started taking the whole front end apart, cleaning the arms and pieces... to start putting everything together one more time.Now compared with the stock 410Tomorrow I will find out how low is going to be, then adjust the rear suspension. As for shocks... I read in another post about this Doesch Tech Nitro Slammer shocks; I might get a set this week.Regards,

Sorry if you wrote it down, I did not see it. Could you tell me what springs these are? Roadster competition springs? What supplier? I appreciate the info.

[Lunatik]

Thanks Mike for your comment, I'll wait for Erich to chime in to see if he still looking for one.

 

Swedishcadillac

I used the Springs from www.Datsunparts.com; the front shocks are KYB for lowered cars, I had a set that never used in my place, I will try to get the number of those as well. 

 

Partnumber: 2113
Datsun Roadster Super Comp Springs - Exclusive Design 

 

Regards,

[Datsun Dude]

Love the lowering. Looks great!

[erichwaslike]

im actually looking for 2 but if you want to sell that porthole one pm me a price on it. 

[Lunatik]

Once again, still working in removing the paint; hopefully this weekend I can start removing the primer and getting that black color shinny again. 

 

I took it for a small ride tonight, it rode like a Cadillac; very funny the way this small engine feels; it makes it into a nice ride. After enjoying the ride, the carb started sputtering badly, for sure there is something plugged or an air leak (from the plastic carb insulator??) 

 

Well, here is the last pic before closing for the night. 

 

 

[Datsun Dude]

Love it, man! Keep up the good work.

[Lunatik]

A little gift arrived today... but installing that front bumper was and still a pain in the rear... I have not finished the installation.

 

[Lunatik]

I scored a brand new carburetor, it really made a difference in the way the car runs.

 

 

Few more for the forum; I have not had this much fun in a long time. All lights and fog light working. But I noticed that the alternator might be a problem, it started making noises... does anyone knows the part number for the alternator or a replacement?

 

[Swedishcadillac]

I haven't hooked it up yet but I am planning on updating to a 280 Z high output alternator when I get my motor back from the machine shop. Bought one from rock auto. It looks like the stock bracket will work with minimal mods. I am also switching from a positive ground system to a negative ground. Good luck. And if you don't mind me asking, do you happen to have the parts number from your KYB Lowering shocks? I just pulled every part off my front suspension/subframe today to get down to bare metal and repainted. Now I get to start putting it back together... Low and Slow!