kgrantkey Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 It's an old 4 speed in a lil hustler pickup. There appeares to be a plastic cup/thimble that the sgifter fits down ito that may be worn. Any ifo on tightening up the shifter would be nice. I just pulled the engine and tranny together and will reinstall after bearings and rings in the motor along with some paint and engine bay cleanup. It shifts OK but it's sloppy. The slop seems to be tn the shifter itself and not the tranny. Anyone know how to tighten uo yhe shifter on the cheap? Quote Link to comment
Ratwagon1600 Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Two things. Wrap a bit of teflon tape around the bottom cup. Where the clevis pin goes through the shifter rod, put a spring washer over the clevis pin and between the sideof the shifter and the inner side of the housing. Photofuckit is not working fr me at the moment though im sure someone will post a pic soon. Also, a good dob of grease on the bottom cup will take a bit of slop out as well. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Is the pin sloppy in the shift stick hole itself, if so you might be missing the bushings, or more likely wore them out, or they have been lost over time, I don't have any photos of the bushings either, but maybe someone else will post a photo of them. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Yeah, looks like the shift lever bushings are gone. This is what they look like but in white plastic. These were custom made from brass. I used a set of these Dodge van? door hinge replacement bushings. They were just a tad large. I made a single cut with a hack saw and pinched the gap together and they fit Just right. You can also try the Nissan dealer. Bushings are 32855-H1010 the cup is 32861-N4200 $3 each? 1 Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Yes the shifter bushings are gone, I knew you guys would point me in the right direction, Thanks a million. I love this truck, Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted January 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 One day I'll spend some money on a different clutch and tranny, but I've had good service out of the stock set up. Had B'ham Friction work on my clutch pressureplate and flywheel today. Took 100.00 and got some change back. Picked up some plastiguage to check my bearing clearence on my crank, I usually dont use plastiguage but thought I'd give it a try. Lots of spin on this old engine, even though I'm going with a l20b I had sitting in the basement for 6 or 7 years with much less miles on it. New-old L20b Old L20b getting replaced - Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 mikes got it! i did the same on my shifter.. its great! the brass bushings havnt shown any wear over the last 2 years ive had em.. Quote Link to comment
neilbane Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 mikes got it! i did the same on my shifter.. its great! the brass bushings havnt shown any wear over the last 2 years ive had em.. Joe, You might want to double check those bushings, brass bushings have been known to fail in less than 18 months Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Even plastic will last longer than that. Not these. They're better than the plastic and besides they are easy to find at any auto parts store, make your self and put in. Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 I wouldn't risk it. Go have a custom bushing made up out of Tungsten carbide. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 Then the shifter will wear away and you're screwed. The softer bronze door hinge bushings are easier. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted January 3, 2014 Report Share Posted January 3, 2014 The NISMO catalog used to sell solid metal replacement bushings. Contact your local Nissan dealer's parts department and see if they still stock the NISMO catalog [it's free]. Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 I found some door bushings that worked well. Thanks for the tip. May want to move this thread to the 620 truck forum as Ihave more stuff to add as I rework my old reliable truck. Here is the motor before and after......I know I said I had a spare L20b to use but ut turned out to be an L18 freshly bored with new pistons, so I had my L20b bored to fit the pistons and the rods swapped. My next delima is the U67 vs the W58 that has the runners in the exhaust ports. I'll probably use the U87 head. 1 Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 I was thinking about painting the transmission but that'd be stupid I think. I don't even know if I've ever seen a transmission painted. Certainly not in a daily driver. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 This looks like an L18 to me... I was thinking about painting the transmission but that'd be stupid I think. I don't even know if I've ever seen a transmission painted. Certainly not in a daily driver. Paint it silver gray. Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 This looks like an L18 to me... -------------------------------------------------------------------- All those years I thought I had a spare l20b .At least the l18 had just been bored with new pistons that I was able to use.. I still feel lucky the guy lost the timming chain tensiones and thought the rattle meant he trashed the engine, All I wanted was the hood but he said same price for the whole truck or just the hood.so I drug the whole truck home. Sometimes you just get lucky. I scrapped an L16b and the old style 4speed that just had lots of miles on it. Kind of regret it, but if it sits long enough taking up space it may go to the salvage yard.. Most of the Ratsun members seem to be from the midwest. I live in Alabama in the middle of Chevy land, so even if I'd kept the rods from the L16 I'd never do anything like putting them in the l18. If shipping wasn't so high I'd listed the motor and tranny in the classifieds. Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Mock up on the L20b. Put the aftermarket cam in the u67 head on top of the bored block with new pistons. Looks like a lot of slack in that chain. :confused: Yhe left chain guide is pushed as far to the center as possible. I only have 1 57 link chain. I guess that would be 114 link chain the way Datsun counts links. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 This looks like an L18 to me... Look behind the oil dip stick.. the engine size is stamped right at tht top of the block. Mock up on the L20b. Put the aftermarket cam in the u67 head on top of the bored block with new pistons. Looks like a lot of slack in that chain. :confused: Yhe left chain guide is pushed as far to the center as possible. I only have 1 57 link chain. I guess that would be 114 link chain the way Datsun counts links. This looks like an L210B chain on an L18... check the block . Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I need help replacing the rear seal in the transmission pictured here.... You guys taught me a new trick with the sloppy shifter. I checked the gear kube level and had to rutn the filler hole almost facing the ground before any trickled out. I added some 90 weight dear oil, not even to the bottom of the fill hole and noticed it leaking out at the tail end where my driveshaft connects. If it was just a slow trickle, a few drops I'd say fuk it I'll get to it later, but shit man everything is out and easy to get too so now is the time. This little project of renewing my truck has really turned into a pain in the ass, Shit I used to hook the battery up and scoot around in this thing, I wanted it to be a good reliable ride now that I gave away my S10 chevy. And it will be; if it kills me. So I know its a 4 speed, pretty sure it came new in my 76 Lil Hustler but I could be wrong and dont want to try explaining what seal I need until I actually know. If more pictures or a number somewhere is needed let me know. It's gonna be a beautiful weekend down here and I want to get this thing going. Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Look behind the oil dip stick.. the engine size is stamped right at tht top of the block. This looks like an L210B chain on an L18... check the block . Looks better with a new chain don;t it. Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 I found one of two seals that look like thay my both be needed, Here is one,,,, Quote Link to comment
kgrantkey Posted February 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Here is abother Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 22, 2014 Report Share Posted February 22, 2014 Just pry the old one out. I just used a screwdriver but there are special tools for this. The new seal is only a few bucks. Place on the transmission and lay a block of 2x4 over it and hammer down into place. Finish by sinking it all the way in. Go easy it's fragile. Be sure to grease the inner lips and or the driveshaft spline. This will prevent it tearing and starting up dry. 32136-U0100 is the Nissan part number. Cross reference it to the Timken. Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Guna leak till you put the drive line in ;) Quote Link to comment
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