How bad of an idea is this?

[datzenmike]

Oh and you only need to replace the bad one. All Z24 head bolts are totally re-usable if in good shape.

[Bennn]

For the money spent on headbolts,you'll be better off buying ARP studs.

 

Where would I buy ARPs for the truck?! I had no idea they'd even make them! ha 

 

Oh and you only need to replace the bad one. All Z24 head bolts are totally re-usable if in good shape.

I ordered a set already because I figured I might as well but I might send them back and get ARPs if I can find them and get them soon enough. The trucks my only vehicle right now.

[DaveZilla]

For the ARP's, they don't make a set for the Z24 engines, but here are the part numbers you'll need if you're interested... You may need to contact ARP directly to get them unless you know of a supplier that can sell them to you.

 

Studs - AM 4.300-2LB
Nuts - 300-8344
Washer - 200-8519
Lube - 100-9908

 

you'll need 10 of each stud, nut and washer, the lube is there for accurate torquing

[Bennn]

Question for the gurus! Can you put a KA24e head on the Z24 block? Because Then it'd be fuel injected! instead of carb'd which i know very little about lol. Just a thought. the head is done so I'm thinking about getting a new one now. 

[flatcat19]

Question for the gurus! Can you put a KA24e head on the Z24 block? Because Then it'd be fuel injected! instead of carb'd which i know very little about lol. Just a thought. the head is done so I'm thinking about getting a new one now. 

 

HRH did just that. Find his threads. 

[DaveZilla]

You can put a KA head on a Z block with a few minor mods to the head, I think it's a water passage that needs to be plugged (easily welded shut and machined flat) in the KA head if I remember right... Then it's a little bit different up front so the gasket won't work without modifying, again, I'm going off memory so I could be a little bit off on this part.

You will need to swap out the pistons in your block unless you plan on putting a turbo on it since the Z pistons with the KA head on the Z block will drop the compression down to 7.4:1

There are benefits to doing this mod tho as the Z bottom end is much beefier than the KA (other than the block being prone to cracking at the head bolt holes), the KA head flows better and gives more room for porting, and you get the advantages of fuel injection.

[datzenmike]

Yes, the KA has dual oil drain back holes at the back of the head. One will line up with a coolant port on an L or Z series blocks. I trimmed a round interference plug of aluminum and pounded it in 3/4", Dremeled a groove around the bottom of the hole and filled it level with JB Weld.

 

 

 

 

It's going nowhere..

[Bennn]

HRH did just that. Find his threads. 

Awesome I will search for it. 

 

Yes, the KA has dual oil drain back holes at the back of the head. One will line up with a coolant port on an L or Z series blocks. I trimmed a round interference plug of aluminum and pounded it in 3/4", Dremeled a groove around the bottom of the hole and filled it level with JB Weld.

 

 

 

 

It's going nowhere..

I was probably just going to use JB weld so that's great! haha 

[Bennn]

HRH did just that. Find his threads. 

Any chance you have a link? Did some searching and haven't had any luck thus far. 

[Eagle_Adam]

heres a link to everything hes posted recently 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=user_activity&search_app=forums&mid=1302&sid=9cd022a1303de1824baed8e585431107&search_app_filters[forums][searchInKey]=&userMode=title

[datzenmike]

Awesome I will search for it. 

 

I was probably just going to use JB weld so that's great! haha 

.

My head had been hot tanked and milled so be sure to degrease with carb spray. I used a plug to support the JB Weld. If you are not, then I suggest filling the hole completely. Use a dremel and rough up the inside of the hole so the JB has a good grip.

 

 

..and fill the correct hole.

[Eagle_Adam]

.

..and fill the correct hole.

 

:rofl:  :rofl:

 

speaking from experience mike?

 

 

 

or is Ms Datzen mad at you for a mistaken opportunity?   :w00t:

[flatcat19]

or is Ms Datzen mad at you for a mistaken opportunity?   :w00t:

 

 

Bwahahahahaha

[Bennn]

Started it up tonight! first time since the day i bought it..,. lol I didn't leave it running i just wondered if it would. I do have a question about vacuum line but i remember seeing a post about it somewhere else so i'll look there first but I do have a question about the headlights. My passenger side is super dim. I have no idea why. Any input on that would be great!

[Bennn]

Also there is a really odd clicking noise coming from the carb. It sounds like anyway? And my battery drained over night so i'm guessing that's a grounding issues? Mayb cause of dim lights? 

[xsdg]

The clicking noise from the carb is probably the AF ratio control solenoid.  You have a six-wire carb, right?

[oakrun]

The tops of those pistons looks like detonation. Did you see the same pattern in the combustion chamber

on the head?

[Bennn]

The clicking noise from the carb is probably the AF ratio control solenoid.  You have a six-wire carb, right?

Yes i do!

[Bennn]

The tops of those pistons looks like detonation. Did you see the same pattern in the combustion chamber

on the head?

 

The valves just had carbon crap all over them. I ended up getting a new head off ebay for a good price with a 6 month warrantee. I'm not sure if it is detonation or carbon being in there beating the crap out of the pistons maybe? I've never seen gnarly detonation like that from a non turbo car though haha.

[izzo]

Also there is a really odd clicking noise coming from the carb. It sounds like anyway? And my battery drained over night so i'm guessing that's a grounding issues? Mayb cause of dim lights? 

 

 

Double check your grounds around the carb. A loose one will cause it to click.. but may not be the case.  I always always always toss those carbs and throw on a weber. 

 

These work on a grounding system.  Things have power to them, and when turned on the ground kicks in and completes the circuit.  You can pull the battery cable off the battery and hook up a test light to it. From cable to post.  If its lit up, then there is a drain. pull one fuse at a time till the light goes out, then you can know whats causing it and where to start looking.

 

Double check that the dome isn't stuck on, and also the cig lighter isn't stuck pushed in. 

 

 

Download this Rar file. It's all datsun wiring from 62-82, however 82 should be real close to your 85...

http://www.nwdatsuns.com/tech/Wiring.rar

[720buck]

It looks like.. something I found on the titanic present day.  I'm sure it'll buffer out.

[harlow426@msn.com]

That the block surface??? Looks like it's been buried in the ground for years. That's got to be cleaned up like this... 

 

Or as clean and bare metal as you can possibly get it. For the cast iron block a wire wheel on an angle grinder should do. The head is much softer aluminum and you'll have to go easier with it.

 

Use the 3m brand "ro-lok" (or similar)scotch brite disks (3" dia disks)on ur pnu angle grinder 2 prep 4 new headgasket(block) then clean with carb/choke and blue paper towels till no residue appears on cloth. Cast iron rings seat in better/faster on a "re-honed" cyl. Chrome rings accellerate long term cyl wear/taper!

[Bennn]

Soooooo the truck runs great now! got all the grounds figured out besides the clicking carb. No idea why it does that but everything else seems to work great! And even with the gnarly block and pistons and cylinder walls being funky. It's pretty great. Now my only problem is I managed to lose my Title. haha  :crying: Other wise I used copper gasket sealant when putting on the head gasket and haven't had a problem yet. 

 

Thanks for all the help everyone! Just gotta get the carb to stop clicking. 

[ggzilla]

The feedback carb is supposed to click during normal operation.

[Bennn]

So just wanted to update this thread and thank all those who helped with my questions! The trucks been running for 7 months now! head gasket started leaking so i swapped it again. Should have pulled the block the first time and done it right but I've got pulling the head down to an art. Takes me half a day to swap the headgasket lol. 

 

I do have a few newer issues and was wondering if anyone had any input on them.

 

1. My heater core seems to be leaking into my air system? Is that the heater core? i'm not sure. Haven't been able to pull the dash yet because It's my daily. Either way if i pull the heater piping or plastic from under the dash it is usually filled with coolant.. now water because i've stopped buying coolant lol. Any input on this would be great. 

 

2. Brakes go out.. literally all the way out. Usually while city driving. Driving on the highway they are fine and keep a good solid pressure but in the city they literally fade out completely to the point where my e-brake becomes my only method of stopping. Would this be the brake booster? Or master cylinder?

 

Again thanks for all the help! 

 

Ben