d.p Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 yes and yes. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 I can't get a wrench on the hose on the slave side. But since I am replacing the slave and hose how do I disconnect the top part of the slave hose that connects to the hardline?? I can't seem to break that one loose. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 If one has a 521 slave and the stock 521 hose it clears the torsion bar. bam your done!!!!!!!! as the sae and metric. I seen Icehouse put a 510 or a 240sx slave and it it worked. but was rubbing the torsion. I asked him why don't you use a 521. He said this was laying around!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Yeah thanks but that doesn't help me because my stock hose is split. I just need to know how to disconnect the stock hose from the hard line. I got a wrench on the bottom side and one on the flare nut on the top (hard line) but I couldn't break it loose and didn't want to round it off so I stopped. Anyone got a tip of breaking the flare nut loose? Or what size it is? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 You need one of the open ended wrenches that is made for brake line fittings, otherwise your going to have to use a pair of vise grips, this is what you deal with when you start upgrading old vehicles with aftermarket parts. I myself use the old parts till they fail, when the slave fails I remove the slave from the hose and install new slave, never had the slave rubber hose fail ever, only the master and the slave have failed on me. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Will pickup some SAE flare nut wrenches tomorrow and try again. Is there a trick to getting a wrench on the slave side end of the hose? I couldn't get one on there with how little room there was between the hose and the bleed screw. My slave hose is mangled anyway and no idea why. The rubber sheath is completely split towards the slave and pretty sure my slave is leaking as well so I figured I would just replace them both and be done with it. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 I don't know your situation, I also cannot remember if the hard line goes all the way to the clutch master on a stock 521 or not, on the 720 it doesn't, it goes to a funky thing that the line can be removed from and all of it can be pulled out the bottom, worked on, then re-installed. So if you cannot get to it where it is, then remove the keeper where the hard line mounts to the frame, then pull down on the rubber line so that you can get to both ends of that union, but now it is not mounted to anything, so you can get to it, but it is loose now which can be just as much of a pain. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 wayno the Z24 720s have a clutch damper. I don't think even Nissan knows what it's for. Works just fine without it Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Clutch master > hard line < keeper > rubber clutch hose > slave. Going to give it another shot today. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Heat the nut on the tube with a small torch. Protect the body and other stuff with a sheet of aluminum, steel, whatever, to keep the flame from touching other things. Once it's hot, but it doesn't have to be glowing red, try to break it loose. You can always use a vise grip on the nut, but that usually destroys the nut. If you have a new nut and a flaring tool, this isn't a big deal. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 I bought an SAE flare nut wrench set and the flare nut came right off (7/16). Once I did that the retaining clip slid right out and the rest was easy, lost very little fluid when removing the hose and slave as one piece. Got the new line/slave in and bled the old dark fluid out and clutch feels good as new now. However I had coolant all over the old slave and after driving with new one I have it on there as well. No idea how its getting there and I don't see coolant anywhere else but on the slave and the spring. OLD: NEW: Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 It helps to have the proper tools, makes things easier. :) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 If you are sure it's coolant, look above to the heater hose where it comes out of the head. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 If you are sure it's coolant, look above to the heater hose where it comes out of the head. It's got to be and will check it next time I'm over there. Is replacing that an easy fix? Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Also, inside the bellhousing there is a freeze plug. If it's leaking, it can sling over to the clutch slave, but it will be leaking out the bottom of the bellhousing too. There's even a plug in the back of the head that could be the culprit too, but it's pretty uncommon for this one to rust. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 Could be just a loose hose clamp. Or rotten hose. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Also, inside the bellhousing there is a freeze plug. If it's leaking, it can sling over to the clutch slave, but it will be leaking out the bottom of the bellhousing too. There's even a plug in the back of the head that could be the culprit too, but it's pretty uncommon for this one to rust. I checked it out this weekend and the hoses are fine, replaced about 5 years and 500 miles ago. Look to be a little big but not leaking at all. There was coolant on the back of the block where it meets the bell housing, couple drips which looked to be dripping from somewhere above there. Where exactly is the plug in the back? Now way for me to get a good look back there. I wiped it away and it hasn't come back yet. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Did you check and tighten the hose clamps? Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Did you check and tighten the hose clamps? No because they were dry as a bone, but I will today just to make sure. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 Where exactly is the plug in the back? Now way for me to get a good look back there. I wiped it away and it hasn't come back yet. It is right in the middle of the back vertical portion of the head. Seeing it leak may require a mirror. Replacing it will be very difficult with the engine in the engine bay. It may only leak when the motor is warmed up, because that's when the cooling system is pressurized. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 20, 2017 Report Share Posted February 20, 2017 It is right in the middle of the back vertical portion of the head. Seeing it leak may require a mirror. Replacing it will be very difficult with the engine in the engine bay. It may only leak when the motor is warmed up, because that's when the cooling system is pressurized. Yeah I am pretty sure that is it, just drove it and checked it and its leaking from the back side where that freeze plug is. Guess I will just add it to the list of things to do if and when when the engine comes out. Quote Link to comment
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