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Replacing clutch slave cylinder...


d510addict

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So my transmission is getting to the point where I cant even shift it half the time. All the signs point to clutch not engageing all the way and my first step is to mess around with the slave cylinder. I was wondering, when I order a new slave cylinder do I match it to my transmission? or my clutch M/C?

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If hard to shift and specially if it grinds when shifting into reverse, the clutch is not dis engaging. This is likely air trapped in the line. Just bleed the system by opening the bleeder on the slave and air and fluid will usually bleed out by gravity. Have someone watch and keep the master reservoir topped up when doing this.

 

If nothing comes out, have someone push down on the clutch and hold. Close the bleeder and raise the clutch pedal. Open the bleeder and press the pedal down. Close the bleeder. This should pump the air out.

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If you have a 521 you need a 521 slave. simple as that.due to the fact the torsion bar is in the way.

Now you you have a 5 speed you might want too use the rod that goes in the slave to be the one used for that trans. as the lengths were different.

 

if 4 speed use the stock 510 set up the threaded rod with the half ball on the end.

 

I would try rebleeding your system first. if 4 speed with threaded rod one can adjust the slop

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In my experience, I use a 521 slave cylinder that has a return spring on the slave cylinder.  I have a 521 with a long shaft 5 car transmission, still use the stock 521 slave cylinder.

 

The 521 also uses American sized hydraulic lines, 3/16, with 3/8-24 flare nuts.  You may have problems trying to use later Nissan, or car slave cylinders, if the newer slave cylinder uses metric threads.

 

I have had good luck getting parts for my 521 trucks at Clackamas Auto parts in Oregon City.  Gladstone Nissan is also an option.  Gladstone Nissan also gives a discount to Ratsun members.

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  • 3 years later...

Yep, that's all.

 

You can gravity bleed the clutch slave (if there's no one around to help). Just fill the reservoir, give it a couple pumps, crack the bleeder and go do something else. Check on it every few minutes and make sure the reservoir doesn't run out of fluid. Close the bleeder and check for clutch operation.

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Yep, that's all.

 

You can gravity bleed the clutch slave (if there's no one around to help). Just fill the reservoir, give it a couple pumps, crack the bleeder and go do something else. Check on it every few minutes and make sure the reservoir doesn't run out of fluid. Close the bleeder and check for clutch operation.

 

Bleeder on the master right? 

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521 slaves metric or SAE specific?  I ask because I got a Dorman slave and a banjo bolt slave hose from hosestop but the banjo bolt wont thread into the Dorman slave.  Haven't had a chance to try it on the slave on my truck but assume the same problem there.  Anyone know what size SAE banjo bolt I would need to make this work?

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521 slaves metric or SAE specific?  I ask because I got a Dorman slave and a banjo bolt slave hose from hosestop but the banjo bolt wont thread into the Dorman slave.  Haven't had a chance to try it on the slave on my truck but assume the same problem there.  Anyone know what size SAE banjo bolt I would need to make this work?

 

521 body is SAE, engine is metric.

I am a little confused here, the 521 brake wheel cylinder has a banjo bolt, the clutch slave does not, so lets assume you are talking about a brake wheel cylinder.

The 521 banjo bolt will only thread into a 521 SAE wheel cylinder, it will not thread into a 620 metric wheel cylinder even though they look the same and will bolt right into a 521, if you were sold a early 620 brake wheel cylinder to replace your 521 brake wheel cylinder, you will need a 620 banjo bolt.

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Yes slave and yes to not coming with a banjo bolt stock.  BUT I got a ss line w/banjo bolt from hosestop to clear the torsion bar but it came with a metric banjo bolt.  Thanks Doctor210, that is exactly what I was looking for.  

 

 

32841267935_7176a1ff4c.jpg

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