d510addict Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 So my transmission is getting to the point where I cant even shift it half the time. All the signs point to clutch not engageing all the way and my first step is to mess around with the slave cylinder. I was wondering, when I order a new slave cylinder do I match it to my transmission? or my clutch M/C? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 You have a 5 speed or still have the original 4 speed? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 If hard to shift and specially if it grinds when shifting into reverse, the clutch is not dis engaging. This is likely air trapped in the line. Just bleed the system by opening the bleeder on the slave and air and fluid will usually bleed out by gravity. Have someone watch and keep the master reservoir topped up when doing this. If nothing comes out, have someone push down on the clutch and hold. Close the bleeder and raise the clutch pedal. Open the bleeder and press the pedal down. Close the bleeder. This should pump the air out. 2 Quote Link to comment
kelowg Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Match to trans if above doesnt work. On mine had to use vacuum bleeder to get all the air out Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 19, 2013 Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 If you have a 521 you need a 521 slave. simple as that.due to the fact the torsion bar is in the way. Now you you have a 5 speed you might want too use the rod that goes in the slave to be the one used for that trans. as the lengths were different. if 4 speed use the stock 510 set up the threaded rod with the half ball on the end. I would try rebleeding your system first. if 4 speed with threaded rod one can adjust the slop Quote Link to comment
d510addict Posted December 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 I current am using a 4 speed from a zcar (not my doing) with an unknown slave cylinder. I will bleed it and see how that works. If not I have a new one on order for that type of transmission. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 In my experience, I use a 521 slave cylinder that has a return spring on the slave cylinder. I have a 521 with a long shaft 5 car transmission, still use the stock 521 slave cylinder. The 521 also uses American sized hydraulic lines, 3/16, with 3/8-24 flare nuts. You may have problems trying to use later Nissan, or car slave cylinders, if the newer slave cylinder uses metric threads. I have had good luck getting parts for my 521 trucks at Clackamas Auto parts in Oregon City. Gladstone Nissan is also an option. Gladstone Nissan also gives a discount to Ratsun members. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 20, 2013 Report Share Posted December 20, 2013 like I said you should order a 521 slave as the torsion bar would be in the way using a car slave. 521s the hose comes from the front. and as Danial said might be different threads if you getting a z car trans slave Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Bumping this, when replacing the slave/hose do I need to drain the master first? Or do I just bleed the slave itself? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 I wouldn't bother emptying it. You have to bleed the slave anyway just pump it almost empty and top it up with fresh fluid. Pump it near empty and repeat till you are sure that ALL the old fluid is replaced with new. Quote Link to comment
Roadster-ka Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Break the hose loose before unbolting the slave cylinder 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Ok so. 1. Break slave hose nut loose 2. Remove slave 3. Remove slave and hose 4. Replace slave and hose 5. Bleed all old fluid out with new That it? 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Yep, that's all. You can gravity bleed the clutch slave (if there's no one around to help). Just fill the reservoir, give it a couple pumps, crack the bleeder and go do something else. Check on it every few minutes and make sure the reservoir doesn't run out of fluid. Close the bleeder and check for clutch operation. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Yep, that's all. You can gravity bleed the clutch slave (if there's no one around to help). Just fill the reservoir, give it a couple pumps, crack the bleeder and go do something else. Check on it every few minutes and make sure the reservoir doesn't run out of fluid. Close the bleeder and check for clutch operation. Bleeder on the master right? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Bleeder on the slave. The master should be fine and without any air in it. You want to push all the air out of the slave and fill it. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 521 slaves metric or SAE specific? I ask because I got a Dorman slave and a banjo bolt slave hose from hosestop but the banjo bolt wont thread into the Dorman slave. Haven't had a chance to try it on the slave on my truck but assume the same problem there. Anyone know what size SAE banjo bolt I would need to make this work? Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 I was not aware that a 521 slave used a banjo bolt. If it is SAE 3/8" x 24 is the right one. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 521 slaves metric or SAE specific? I ask because I got a Dorman slave and a banjo bolt slave hose from hosestop but the banjo bolt wont thread into the Dorman slave. Haven't had a chance to try it on the slave on my truck but assume the same problem there. Anyone know what size SAE banjo bolt I would need to make this work? 521 body is SAE, engine is metric. I am a little confused here, the 521 brake wheel cylinder has a banjo bolt, the clutch slave does not, so lets assume you are talking about a brake wheel cylinder. The 521 banjo bolt will only thread into a 521 SAE wheel cylinder, it will not thread into a 620 metric wheel cylinder even though they look the same and will bolt right into a 521, if you were sold a early 620 brake wheel cylinder to replace your 521 brake wheel cylinder, you will need a 620 banjo bolt. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Yes slave and yes to not coming with a banjo bolt stock. BUT I got a ss line w/banjo bolt from hosestop to clear the torsion bar but it came with a metric banjo bolt. Thanks Doctor210, that is exactly what I was looking for. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Yes slave and yes to not coming with a banjo bolt stock. BUT I got a ss line w/banjo bolt from hosestop to clear the torsion bar but it came with a metric banjo bolt. Thanks Doctor210, that is exactly what I was looking for. I have never seen anything like this before. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 I have never seen anything like this before. Lol is that a good or bad thing? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Converting metric to standard is pretty easy with Google always at your fingertips. Just convert mm to inches then find the fraction that closely matches. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 If a 10mm bolt starts to thread, then the bolt is probably 3/8-24. The easiest way to confirm this is to get a 3/8 fine thread bolt from your hardware store and see if it threads in. Better yet, bring the slave to the hdw store and see what fits. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Tried but metric is 10x1.0 and could t find a conversion for that. Went and bought a 3/8-24 from Napa which threads but I can blow air through the hose so not sure it's sealing. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 Why do you need a conversion? You have a 10mm banjo bolt, right? And it does not thread in, right? If it's 10mm metric, it's going to be a 1.0 thread pitch. Quote Link to comment
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