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82 720 Diesel Project Thread (Modification? Suggestions?)


WI 720

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Just a block heater set on a timer so it turns on at least a half an hour before you try to start it.

It helps to have good glow plugs too. :lol:

I also need a new set, but I am a little shy about buying them now, as it seems that no one at the auto parts stores knows anything about these old diesels, the last set they sold me blew up like a balloons, I had to use vice grips to pry them out of there holes, but they worked real good that one time, I guess that there are slow and fast glow plugs, are 720 diesels use the slow type, I believe they sold me the fast type and they overheated.

Greetings Wayno,
I do have a block warmer. Getting it out of the garage should be o.k., I am more nervous about leaving it sit outside for hours and then starting it. The guy that sold it to me said he thought one glow plug was bad and it has been tough to start on occasion (and it smokes a lot starting). I am hoping that a valve adjustment and new glow plugs will remedy this. I'm also toying with the idea of rigging up a hot air intake just for starting. Do you have any other cold weather starting tips?

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I would suggest you make sure they are the right ones to start with, I almost had to remove the injection pump to get them all out, as I said, they blew up like balloons, I had to pry them out, I was lucky they did not blow up any bigger, or I would have had to remove the head.

Wayno, I bought mine off of Rock Auto. Once I get them installed I'll post whether they are the right type or not.

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Wayno, it's not just the regular auto parts stores that aren't familiar with these. I went to the parts counter at the local Nissan dealership last summer and asked for glow plugs. The man said, "If you're looking for glow plugs, you're in the wrong place." I couldn't convince him otherwise.

 

It's been intersting following this and seeing the different problems created by the winter weather there.

For the tail-lights, I got tired of fixing them and (twice) having the new housings melt. I gave up and just created some new ones about a year ago.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are a few more pictures - priming and starting to paint over the primer.

IMG_20141111_221039265_zpsqpxvn1r8.jpg
 

IMG_20141111_221050341_zpsk9dulm6u.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_20141112_211324167_zpslhrkfsmi.jpg

 

 

IMG_20141112_214057553_zpsmtfj2jtg.jpg

 

 

 

An early Christmas Present Came from Kuwait (Its a NOS diesel oil cap)

IMG_20141111_222849888_zpszltgiga7.jpg

 

$_57.JPG

 

 

Also ordered a tach hoping that I can rig it up somehow and make it work... 

$_57.JPG

 

 

I also realized that they didn't have all the safety warnings back in the early 80s so I made an update:

IMG_20141111_221028257_zpsll8asfnm.jpg

 

Its gotten cold this week in WI so I'm probably done with most of the painting and other major work until spring.   It'll probably be just some tinkering until then... 
 

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Good question on the oil cap Wayno. Since the "dent" looks intentional, the part is claimed to be NOS and is at the bottom of the cap, I figured it was supposed to be where the thumb goes. If not, I'll be a little miffed. We kick Saddam out of Kuwait and this is the thanks we get?

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I have had 3 tiny tachs, two for diesel engines, and one for my pressure washer, only one of the diesel ones worked correctly, and it worked great, but the second diesel one has never worked correctly, and when I asked the company about the issues I was having, they sent another pick up sensor, it didn't change a thing, they would not return my inquiries anymore, it's like they did what they could and then they were done with me.

When ever I let off the pedal, it goes to total hours, even when I am cruising down the freeway on a down hill section, but when I give it the pedal it goes back to RPMs, it's very annoying, I have to have my foot into the pedal to see RPMs, when I let off to shift it goes to total hours also, very annoying. :(

You will spend lots of time attempting that tach, and then after many hours, order a tiny tach.

 

Great progress on that truck, keep up the good work.

This is what I buy now, it works great once adjusted properly.

http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=CeLIG9pRuVOOEGJLU-QPqt4CIBtHCspAHweuMk40B8e2MiYYCCAQQASgFYMn-yI30pNQZoAH3j7zLA8gBB6oEJ0_QK6L2K8pDGyxtmq7kXH8qh3q3SuzipCKNrkzFDwXkdrPz0TuBysAFBaAGJoAH8e_DNIgHAZAHAqgHpr4b4BKEian10OGYyfYB&sig=AOD64_0HyV3bH5EoEg5haWwxsNJ_OhErnQ&ctype=5&rct=j&q=&ved=0CCMQvhc&adurl=http://www.partdeal.com/isspro-electric-tach-4000rpm-2-pulse-2in-r8503.html%3Fzmam%3D74973193%26zmas%3D1%26zmac%3D4%26zmap%3D77173401

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Greetings Wayno,

I do have a block warmer. Getting it out of the garage should be o.k., I am more nervous about leaving it sit outside for hours and then starting it. The guy that sold it to me said he thought one glow plug was bad and it has been tough to start on occasion (and it smokes a lot starting). I am hoping that a valve adjustment and new glow plugs will remedy this. I'm also toying with the idea of rigging up a hot air intake just for starting. Do you have any other cold weather starting tips?

Whatever you do don't use that ether spray into the air cleaner. I learned the hard way and broke a piston ring when the ether exploded inside the combustion chamber on my sd22.

First, make sure all your glow plugs work then clean all the contacts on the glow plug harness.

The glow plug timer system in the 720 is crap. Most of the 720's out there now have a push button to turn on the glow plugs. The original datsun timer didn't keep them on long enough for really cold weather.  When it gets really cold you can hold down on the push button longer.

Fact: ALL sd22's smoke and run rough when cold. Thats why datsun put that little idle speed choke thing down by the hood latch.

 

Your pump controller has probably gone south long ago. How are you turning the truck off? I wired a toggle switch into the dash that actuated the diesel pump.

It was hit and miss getting the right position to stop it. Sometimes i had to hit it a couple times. The alternative of letting the clutch out to kill it is not good on

your clutch.  

 

And dont forget to put cod liver oil in the injector pump diaphram.  These guys know their sd22's  http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?p=3297

 

That motor is one tough sob. Don't worry about the dark black oil. All diesels are like that  even after a few hundred miles of changing the oil.

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Ether is bad!!!!

 

One has to understand all the quirks of the 720 diesel harness, as long as one doesn't start grabbing power for accessories from places that one should not be grabbing power, the harness works great.

 

Whatever you do don't use that ether spray into the air cleaner. I learned the hard way and broke a piston ring when the ether exploded inside the combustion chamber on my sd22.

First, make sure all your glow plugs work then clean all the contacts on the glow plug harness.

The glow plug timer system in the 720 is crap. Most of the 720's out there now have a push button to turn on the glow plugs. The original datsun timer didn't keep them on long enough for really cold weather.  When it gets really cold you can hold down on the push button longer.

Fact: ALL sd22's smoke and run rough when cold. Thats why datsun put that little idle speed choke thing down by the hood latch.

 

Your pump controller has probably gone south long ago. How are you turning the truck off? I wired a toggle switch into the dash that actuated the diesel pump.

It was hit and miss getting the right position to stop it. Sometimes i had to hit it a couple times. The alternative of letting the clutch out to kill it is not good on

your clutch.  

 

And dont forget to put cod liver oil in the injector pump diaphram.  These guys know their sd22's  http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?p=3297

 

That motor is one tough sob. Don't worry about the dark black oil. All diesels are like that  even after a few hundred miles of changing the oil.

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....

Your pump controller has probably gone south long ago. How are you turning the truck off? I wired a toggle switch into the dash that actuated the diesel pump.

It was hit and miss getting the right position to stop it. Sometimes i had to hit it a couple times. The alternative of letting the clutch out to kill it is not good on

your clutch.  

 

And dont forget to put cod liver oil in the injector pump diaphram.  These guys know their sd22's  http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/viewtopic.php?p=3297

 

That motor is one tough sob. Don't worry about the dark black oil. All diesels are like that  even after a few hundred miles of changing the oil.

 

Oakrun, thanks for the heads up on the cod liver oil in the injector pump diaphragm.  I am still able to just use the ignition switch and key to shut it off.  You sure know a lot about cold weather starting for someone from Hawaii  :thumbup:  I appreciate the help.

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Oakrun, thanks for the heads up on the cod liver oil in the injector pump diaphragm.  I am still able to just use the ignition switch and key to shut it off.  You sure know a lot about cold weather starting for someone from Hawaii  :thumbup:  I appreciate the help.

Many moons ago I lived in a much colder place. Hence the change to warmer clime's.  My vw diesel over here doesn't even need glow plugs.

fyi if there is a tear in the injector diaphram the truck will smoke more. There is a guy over on nissan diesels that knows of a place to get them

They are long since NLA at nissan dealers. BTW some people have had gumming up with the cod liver oil.  In the past it was

acceptable but it looks like others have found problems. Best to use injector diaphram oil.

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  • 2 months later...

Long Time, No Post.  I figured it was time to make a little progress and make a post. 
Doing some Datsun parting out and the Wisconsin Winter slowed me down.  In other Nissan family news, I replaced the front brakes and rotors on the G20 and that motivated me to tackle a 720 project.

I am working on replacing the front rotors and grinding off some of the rust so that I can paint the pieces that I'm not replacing.  Just working on the right hand side now. 
Hopefully the truck brakes better with rotors that aren't all bombed out.  The brake hoses are also toast so I am replacing those.

 

Here are the pictures:
IMG_20150131_114532699_zpsnucdode0.jpg

 

IMG_20150131_114543407_zpssk0kdre3.jpg

The rotor and hub were so rusted together that they appeared to be just one big chunk of metal.

 

IMG_20150131_120514686_zpskl6fixsj.jpg

 

IMG_20150131_120550702_zpsya2vgttv.jpg

 

IMG_20150131_120700758_HDR_zpsffya9oqo.j s

 

Old compared to new.  Hopefully braking improves noticeably.

 

 

IMG_20150131_130131901_zpsodpiiwfs.jpg

 

IMG_20150131_133149509_zpsw7abghpn.jpg

 

IMG_20150131_150444927_zpsu63qhxqi.jpg

 

The plan is to rust-grind and then paint the parts that I'm not replacing.   Hopefully more pictures (and progress) will follow soon...

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  • 1 month later...

Wisconsin finally warmed up from our deep freeze so I was able to get some painting done and made some progress on the front passenger wheel.  
The front shock is replaced, there is a new rotor and a new rubber brake hose and metal brake line to the caliper.  The old rotor and hose were shot.

Here are some pictures:
IMG_20150308_144117868_zpswjwd4l8v.jpg

 

IMG_20150308_145133203_zpsxrgrncwj.jpg

 

IMG_20150308_151902298_HDR_zpsjq50jshc.j

 

IMG_20150308_175314698_zpstbuihd8g.jpg

 

IMG_20150309_190210238_zps9o35x1kh.jpg

 

IMG_20150309_190214144_zpsrn4eb1lg.jpg

 

I then put the wheel back on and set my sights on the front driver's side wheel.

 

I'll bleed the brakes once both sides are done.

 

IMG_20150309_210214130_zps2el3si4f.jpg

 

There were screws that were in bad shape.  I removed two of the four carefully and the other two stripped out.  I tried a couple of things (channel lock, tapping the side with a screw driver) but that didn't work so I went to my fall back: drill a hole in the stripped screw, pound in a long square bit and use a 1/4" wrench to turn it.  That did the trick on both of the screws. 

 

I removed the wheel, removed the caliper and disconnected the brake lines and removed the hub and rotor.  The rotor definitely was in bad shape and the rubber brake line had cracked badly.  I still need to remove the shock and clean up a bit and then paint before replacing the rotors, the rubber brake hose and then reassembling.

 

 

 

IMG_20150309_210526209_zpskn7ro5yy.jpg

 

Once I get the drivers side done and bleed the brake system, the brakes should be better.  That would be a big win for the project.

To Do List:

1. Finish Brakes
2. Work on preventing the  rear differential from leaking

3.  Paint the frame and bottom of the truck.
4. Fix huge holes in the floor on the driver's side.
5.  Replace Steering wheel

6.  Add some sound deadening material

7. Lower the front using the torsion bars and get an alignment

 

Wish List:
1.  Eventually repaint 

2.  Work a little more on the front driver side fender.

3.  Look at the exhaust and get a new muffler.

4.  Clean up the engine bay

5.  etc., more projects.

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*Brakes are working again.  Lessons learned: buy correct hoses and fittings.  Bleed brakes on both sides after working on both sides.  

 

I picked up a few other little bits of knowledge and tips as well.  As I was backing out of the garage, onto my downhill driveway, I realized that the brakes weren't working.   Luckily, the block to keep the back wheels from rolling forward when I was working on the 720 also stopped the front wheels as it was rolling backwards.  That was definitely lucky.  I drove all of 30 feet in the past two days, but at least I'm in a position to drive it more tomorrow.   It is gratifying that I didn't fire up the engine for probably about 4-5 months and it still fired right up.

 

I'll try to get some more work done tomorrow and then post pictures.

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  • 1 month later...

Well, the brakes actually weren't fixed and leaked out brake fluid all over my garage.  I ended up retightening the connections and rebleeding the brakes.  The they finally (hopefully) work and don't leak, but they are still a bit softer than I'd like so I'll need to re-bleed the brakes and maybe adjust the pedal.

It was good enough to drive a few miles to pick up a CB160, so that was a win. 

 

I also put a new steering wheel on and added some duct insulation (aka generic dynamat).  The insulation should help reduce the outside noise level.  Fixing the hole in the floor would also likely improve the noise level as well.  I did acquire a Datsun parking only sign as well.

 

Here are pictures:

IMG_20150428_205405891_zps9puivrfs.jpg

I need to put the rest of the turn signal pieces back together but at least the wheel is on.

 

IMG_20150428_205410613_zpswhf31nvs.jpg

I think that the insulation helps and I'll add more in other areas.

 

IMG_20150428_193917805_zpsujjszdjq.jpg

More frame rust protection...  Its still ongoing.

 

IMG_20150428_193900131_zpsihvorar0.jpg

CB160 Successfully acquired!

 

IMG_20150428_193848605_zpsdp9sq8ri.jpg

Honda Motorcycle + Datsun Truck = Win

 

To Dos:
1.  Reassemble steering column

2.  Finish Bleeding Brakes and adjust pedal.
3.  Work on preventing the rear differential from leaking

4.  Continue to Paint the frame and bottom of the truck.
5.  Fix huge holes in the floor on the driver's side.

6.  Add additional sound deadening material

7.  Lower the front using the torsion bars and get an alignment

8Replace glow plugs.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The brakes are working better and I've been hauling some other stuff.   I think that I'll still need to adjust the brake pedal a bit so that the brakes catch earlier when I depress the brake pedal.

IMG_20150509_161547813_zpstkscdg3c.jpg

 

One of the major projects that needs to be done is to patch the floor pans and do it without welding since I don't have a welder and I don't weld.

Step 1:
Cut out the loose rusted metal and try to straighten some of the lines and wire brush some of the rust off:

IMG_20150524_101909200_zpstnptn9tl.jpg

 

IMG_20150524_105729236_zpst1snahrp.jpg

Before.

 

IMG_20150525_190803508_zpsxj4uf32s.jpg

 

IMG_20150525_190811962_zpsn5kiu8az.jpg

 

IMG_20150525_190819278_zpscgwizxtm.jpg

After.

 

Step 2:  Add some POR-15 that I had left over from another project:

IMG_20150525_210731275_zpsbzq2bo9o.jpg
 

 

Next Steps:  Paint over the POR-15.  Then, I'll add in some aluminum sheet metal. and cut it to fit.   I'll use construction adhesive to glue it to the original floor.  
I may end up reinforcing the floor with an aluminum beams.  I'll paint the aluminum as well and add some sound-proofing before putting down the rubber datsun floor mat.  Hopefully that reduces the road noise and will be weather-tight.

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  • 2 months later...

Its been 2.5 months since I checked in and I wish I could report that the truck is all complete but it is still a work in progress.  Its been fun though and its moving along. 

I did make a 600 mile or so trip from Madison to the shores of lake superior in Michigan's Upper peninsula to pick up two 1950s Cushman scooters with my brother.  I tracked mileage on one tank and got just over 35mpg.  It was all highway but I was carrying a load and a passenger so I was pleased.

 

The big project has been trying to replace the driver's side floor without welding.  The seat sunk below the floor and the floor is pretty rusted out (see post above).

I'm making progress and here are pictures.  I cut out the really bad rust which widened some of the holes, then I applied POR-15 and painted to slow future rust as much as possible.  Next,  I cut an aluminum patch from another Datsun project and used aluminumized tape to seal the edges and painted over it.  I used construction adhesive to attach the patch to the floor.  I used a jack to raise the seat above the floor and slide the aluminum patch under the seat supports.   I didn't support the patch enough and it shifted so I improvised supports from another left over Datusn project, used construction adhesive to put those in place and then re-taped with aluminumized tape.  I sprayed some rubberized coating and spray lacquer over the tap edges and then applied duct insulation and more aluminumized tape.  The goal was to help sound insulate the floor.  I need to add more duct insulation and more tape and then put the rubber floor mat over it.  I also mostly removed the musty insulation from under the floor mat.  O.k. here are pictures:

 

 

IMG_20150529_211702453_zpsug0pkja1.jpg

Painted after the por-15.

 IMG_20150510_102732294_zpsd9rmazbv.jpg

IMG_20150510_102716840_zpsdhhlsaug.jpg

Aluminum Patch

 

IMG_20150729_185846790_zpsje1m4eao.jpg

A view from the bottom

 

IMG_20150729_185812768_zpsdfzmylpt.jpg

Floor support

 

IMG_20150603_193545972_zpsriwofoes.jpg

IMG_20150603_193539844_HDR_zpsl0awcyl1.j

IMG_20150510_144300201_zpsuj655suv.jpg

IMG_20150510_144244558_zps6vzbrpjh.jpg

IMG_20150510_144221511_zpsbc3ewhea.jpg

Raising the seat.

 

IMG_20150603_193724378_zpspapkayzp.jpg

IMG_20150603_193718685_zpsjhe9e0bq.jpg

IMG_20150808_164022865_zpsp5wbea2n.jpg

IMG_20150808_164018124_zpsuaboevcd.jpg

IMG_20150808_160054607_zpscuzzp2b4.jpg

 

Patch installed, painted and taped.

 

IMG_20150816_192220985_zpsssuadv5d.jpg

Taped and rubberized.

 

 

 

IMG_20150816_192357944_zpsredbccka.jpg

Duct Insulation being applied.  Its supposed to be a cheaper version of dynamat soundproofing.

 

For looks and slight aerodynamic improvements, I cut down the bed some.  I don't think it will inhibit the functionality for what I use it for.

 

IMG_20150731_194600232_zpsh4od6wto.jpg

Before

 

Pending.... 
After

 

 

I am still working on some taillight bugs and a fuse that keeps blowing which is likely related to the taillights.  Its getting closer to where I want it.  I bled the brakes again and they are finally feeling a firm as I want them.

 

I was also slightly side tracked by this project.  It isn't a patrol, but is still pretty cool:

IMG_20150620_193130158_zpsslixdiwe.jpg
 

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  • 7 months later...

It has been way too long since I updated this thread ... Had another kid and life happens.

Here are truck pictures:
IMG_20160319_104140974_zpsz7zbrccr.jpg

 

IMG_20160325_182648202_zpssxmwjwt8.jpg

The FJ40 above sold, I bought another 1982 720 with a blown Z22 engine and bad under body rust and parted it out piece by piece down to the frame which I then cut up -if anyone wants something let me know, I'll probably  throw a classified ad up again soon.  I think that I'll take the hood an swap it onto my truck.  I cut the floors out of the cab which I wish I would have done before trying to patch the floors of my 720 diesel.  I didn't run the truck for a few months over the winter and let the tags expire.  I renewed the tags, started the truck a few times but didn't drive it and finally last night, I got it started enough to move it into the garage because someone in my homeowners association came to the door to complain about the truck and all the sheet metal and frame from the other 720 in the back - apparently they were worried that I was hurting the property values in the neighborhood.

 

Here is video of it starting.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spmmToH0_08

It smoked a lot at first.  I still need to swap in new glow plugs.

 

The dash lights went out and the passenger side taillights need to be resoldered so I have some electrical fun to sort out.

 

It feels good to have it running again.  Hopefully I'll be able to move forward on some projects with it soon and document it.

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