82 720 Diesel Project Thread (Modification? Suggestions?)

[WI 720]

Its been too long since I put up an update so here is goes:

Just went on a 350 mile trip and the 720 performed well and cruised comfortably at 70mph.  Once the SD22 gets going, it just goes and goes :thumbup:

The differenital still seems to be leaking from where the drive shaft connects.  I put sythetic fluid in so I'm not sure if that caused it.  Is there some seal or something that needs to be replaced?

I am still working on the rear wiring (it is probably a ground issue). I bought a multimeter so I'll work on sorting that out.
I'll work on getting pictures up.

Also, thanks Wayno for the info on switching up tires.  I went with lower profile tires on the front (195? R60 instead of 195 R75).  I put on aluminum slot rims on the front as well so steering seems easier between the lighter wheels and smaller wheels.

 

I also made a new shift knob out of a piston from a Honda 73 125s motorcycle. 

I installed seats that I picked up for free off of craigslist from a 200sx or 240sx.  They didn't bolt right in but I used some engine brackets from a kawasaki kz200 from the late 70s and they did the trick. The brackets were assisted by bolts from a swing arm of a 70s bike - probably a honda 350/360 but possibly off of a Suzuki or Kawasaki.  The diameter and threads matched up so that was fortunate. The bucket seat with the head rest is a welcome upgrade from the bench seat that was worn.  Visibility out the back window is slightly obstructed, but nothing major. 

 

Still to do:
*Fix rear wiring.
*Stop/slow differential leak

*Reinstall hoodvents. 
*put rubberized coating on the inside of the hood to protect it and hopefully reduce the engine noise.

*continue to grind rust off of the frame, prime it and paint it.
*install the passenger bucket seat.
*fix massive hole in the driver's floor board.

*find a way to incorporate more random Japanese motorcycle parts into the build.

 

Actually, here are pictures:

Old vs. New.  The lighter rim and lower profile helps with steering.   You can see the fender bolts in the background.

 

 

I filled the transmission fluid by using a funnel with a tube and putting it through the hole in the floor board.  Not sure how to do this if there wasn't a hole in the floor board....

 

Before priming but after some rust grinding.

 

 

After priming.  I put the fender back on and did some work getting a dent out.

 

Differential primed.  Did priming over the vent cap contribute to the leak issue?

 

Kawasaki engine bracket saving the day for the bucket seat install.  Yes, that is a hole and my garage floor.  The support that the seat bolts into isn't connected to the frame near the door on the driver's side.  I will work to rectify that.

 

 

Another spot where the Kawasaki engine bracket helps out.  It is assisted by a bolt from a swing arm - probably some honda bike and possibly a Suzuki or Kawasaki.

[wayno]

I have read that synthetic oil/fluid has smaller molecules, so it gets by the seals easier, this is what I have read.

[that-son]

read the same about synthetics.  so... was that 350 miles on a single tank?   what was the average fuel consumption?  i'm still trying to convince my wife to get a diesel...  not doing a very good job.

[84720FourWheel]

Probably just need to replace the differential pinion seal. You should be able to order from your local auto parts store. 

[WI 720]

read the same about synthetics.  so... was that 350 miles on a single tank?   what was the average fuel consumption?  i'm still trying to convince my wife to get a diesel...  not doing a very good job.

 

Unfortunately, Filled up in the middle and didn't start on a full tank so I don't have a good estimate on mileage.  

I'm working on tracking that for this tank.  That said, based on some estimates and guesstimates, I would think that 30mpg seems reasonable.  I would like to think that it gets at least that and hopefully not less.  Having a flat bed with the wood siding is probably not very aerodynamic.  Not that two honda sprees are much weight, but I was carrying something in the bed.... we'll see.  I've been considering mixing in some used oil or the like so if you go that route, that could be a fuel savings.  In terms of getting a diesel, from what I hear, the SD22 engines will go forever if properly maintained and should be more fuel efficient on a cost per mile basis.

This is my first diesel.  I bought my truck cheap, put work into it and some money (probably about a grand total including rims and new tires, a ratsun.net shirt, Ratsun stickers etc. B) ) into it and have a pick-up (and a hobby) with about 125,000 miles on it that hopefully gets 30+ miles on a gallon of diesel.  Seems like a low risk proposition to try out a diesel.   If something goes wrong, I can turn around and sell it without taking too much of a loss and maybe even get the money out of it or come out a little ahead.  I'm glad I bought it. 

[WI 720]

Probably just need to replace the differential pinion seal. You should be able to order from your local auto parts store. 

 

Thanks 84720FourWheel, I'll have to put that on the project list.

[84720FourWheel]

If you plan to drive it in the winter, I'd run some rubber line from the differential breather up somewhere higher, I hear of too many people destroying their differentials when some water gets in during the winter. 

[WI 720]

Quick Update:
Bough a set of generic lights off eBay. $15 shipped to my door.
I was then able to wire them in off of the ground wire and brake light wire. It went well, but would have been better if I attached the wire from the lights to the yellow wire with a red stripe rather than the red wire with a yellow stripe. Once that was straightened out it worked. I still need to try to ground the other brake light. I'll try to have a picture up soon.

 

Pictures:

The top two round brake lights are what I added.  I'll take three brake lights vs. one.
I also resoldered a connection for the tail light so that is working consistantly.

 

 

 

Not quite textbook....

 

I also wire brushed the Diesel Cap: (mostly before and after)

 

 

 

O.k., newbie question:  So in reading the other posts on Ratsun about Tachometers it looks like the truck is wired for a tach,  I just need to acquire a tachometer and install it.  (I saw Datzen Mike's posts about getting the 2.2 rectifier or whatever..)  Is this true for the Diesel models as well?  I know that the diesel wiring differs from the gas engine wiring and I think that I read that the diesels generally didn't come with Tachs.  Are diesels plug and play with the 720 tachs?  If so, does anyone have a 720 tach for sale? (I'll probably eventually put up a wanted ad in the classifieds.)

 

[WI 720]

I'm making slow progress.  I bought a front turn signal light cover off of eBay, and have been working some more on the interior. 


Crack in the dash -passenger side  before
 

Hole in dash near the drivers side -before
 

After with some hot glue.  I'll paint it later.  I just want to keep it from cracking more.
 

Hot glue again.
 
Yesterday, I drove about an hour to pick up an L28 out of a 78 280Z and an accompanying 4 speed transmission:

 

 

 

I did some research and realized that the L28 and 4 speed transmission won't be suitable back ups (plus I'm hoping that the SD22 lasts for a good long time).

 

I also put some rubberized coating on the back of the cab to try and sound deaden it a bit.

 

I'm almost ready to put in the other 200? 240? SX seat.

 

I've given up on the tach for now.  The differential still leaks so that will need attention.    I am getting new glow plugs and will attempt to adjust the valves.

[WI 720]

And also, I picked up an angle grinder to go after some of the surface rust.  

[wayno]

I have never seen a stock Nissan diesel tach, and have even heard of one for sale anywhere.

I do know that not all SD engines have the pocket necessary for the tach sensor.

I use an aftermarket one I bought from Isspro, it's easy to read, it operates by gluing 2 magnets on the front crank pulley.

http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=CPMSNl7VNVPnIK4XU-QOw4IDYBNHCspAHieCLko0BwceejoYCCAQQASgFUJWP0ub4_____wFgyf7IjfSk1BmgAfePvMsDyAEHqgQmT9A3PQIzx6elWHz1l3QEji_4py5G0l-g5yTIvmfANjCyYUqMF1DABQWgBiaAB_HvwzSIBwGQBwKoB6a-G-AShImp9dDhmMn2AQ&sig=AOD64_31dDQokGnVRC9e3jpAITMcqyf8BA&ctype=5&rct=j&q=&ved=0CCEQww8&adurl=http://www.partdeal.com/isspro-electric-tach-4000rpm-2-pulse-2in-r8503.html%3Fzmam%3D74973193%26zmas%3D1%26zmac%3D4%26zmap%3D77173401

[datzenmike]

That inner fender you primed will rot even faster now. Primer absorbs moisture and it's poor protection from stone chips. Hose it down with paint, doesn't have to look good just get several thick layers on it.

 

The pinion seal can be changed or just dump that synthetic out and go back to 80W90 EP. If changed every 5 years it (the diff) will last forever.

 

You'll never get water in the diff as long as the breather isn't broken off and you don't back into the lake launching boats. Only the 4x4 had the rubber hose extension, but it was assumed you would be driving off road with it.

[WI 720]

Thanks Wayno and datzenmike.

Looks like I'll need to get an electric tach and get the inner fender repainted. 

[datzenmike]

There were factory tachs for the diesel.

[wayno]

I have never seen one, or heard of anyone that had one, but I do know where it is supposed to connect, the holes are all plugged like the speedo hole is plugged on a 4wd 720 transmission.

There were factory tachs for the diesel.

[720inOlyWa]

I really enjoy following this thread. You are doing  great job!

 

As a person who has had the experience of having an old 49 Plymouth brake line burst, resulting in the pedal going right to the floor without any effect, and me executing a flying merger into freeway traffic as a result, I now replace everyhing in my braking systems with new parts. Other places, I am all too happy to recycle from wherever. Not my brakes. Just sayin’. 

[Charlie69]

You are doing a great job reviving this truck.  Check out Rock Auto

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=pbt7svqvgo1t96ubr6iit00p60

[WI 720]

Thanks for the encouragement 720inOlyWa and Charlie69.  Getting the brakes fixed better is on the list.  I have new rotors and new brake lines to put on - having the old rotors still works, but  the braking is just o.k. and should be better.   

 

In terms of Rock Auto, I ordered the glow plugs from them.  It turns out that their headquarters is just a few miles from my house.

[foodave]

You could make a custom intake like i did

Not the greatest pic. And it is now changed a little.

[foodave]

Like this now:

[WI 720]

Foodave, that is a cool custom intake.  For my intake, I did repaint it, patch the leak in the rubber connecting house and put in a K&N air filter.  I'll see how it works.

 

The big progress note is that I finally put in the passenger's seat.  I mainly took pictures of the custom (a.k.a hacked) brackets.  The seat is good and tight though.

 

Here's the pictures:

Front Inside.  Pretty easy.  I stripped out the thread so I just put a bolt through and put a nut on the other end.

 

Front Outside: Custom bracket.

 

Rear Outer.  There was a threaded hole in the floor so I used that and used a custom bracket.

 

Inner Rear, very hacked.  Used the threaded hole in the floor and an assist from engine brackets from a 70s Kawasaki KZ200, I think.

 

We'll see what other progress I can make this weekend.....

[WI 720]

New ignition?  Nope... Just Wire Brushed It.

[WI 720]

Painted and dash after trying to repair the cracks. Sprayed more rubberized coating on the passenger side floor.   Wire brushed some of the rust and on the frame and put primer on the rear bumper (yes, I paint over it soon).  I'll get pictures up - nothing to exciting.

It is supposed to snow tomorrow, so the 720 may be garaged until spring.  I'm not looking to drive in the snow with the huge hole in the driver's floor board.  I also need to install the new glow plugs for the 720 to be winter ready.

 

Here is a video (of someone else) for inspiration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymsS4WjnP-4 

[wayno]

Do you not have a block warmer/heater?

[WI 720]

Greetings Wayno,

I do have a block warmer. Getting it out of the garage should be o.k., I am more nervous about leaving it sit outside for hours and then starting it. The guy that sold it to me said he thought one glow plug was bad and it has been tough to start on occasion (and it smokes a lot starting). I am hoping that a valve adjustment and new glow plugs will remedy this. I'm also toying with the idea of rigging up a hot air intake just for starting. Do you have any other cold weather starting tips?