B210ratsun Posted December 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 So the car started and idled and I thought everything was good... car died on me in the middle of the street making a left hand turn... not good. Got it started but at every stoplight it wanted to die... kept my foot on the gas to get it going again... got to my friends house and waited for it to cool down again. Tried again what you suggested King Rat, when the car was cold set the spring and tried it and it started and high idled better than it did before, I was pretty happy. Kicked it down to low idle and it died... put my hand on the back of the electric choke and it was as cold as it was outside and the valve cover was warm to the touch. I thought this was strange but kept trying to move the choke to get the idle right and it kept dying after a bit. So it is warmed up now and it was still not idling. I took off the electric choke and it was cold and it does not appear the heating element has ever got hot or even warm. I tested the power and it does have power... Do you guys think the heating element is done? Was thinking about getting a new Weber, do they come with this piece? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 16, 2013 Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 New heating element is $15. Its the same one as a Weber 32/36 But first, did you set the warm idle speed and air/fuel mixture? If not it will run fine when cold but when warm can die. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 16, 2013 Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 First, make sure the choke heater is grounded to the carb. In my lower picture you can see a rivett anfground strap to the attaching screw. The gase has to be grounded for the heater to work.... hanging down behind the motor may have broken it though. Yes, as David says the mixture and idle may have been tampered with to keep it running without a choke. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 Hey guys, I have not messed with any screws on the carb. I tested the choke heater off the car, grounded it to my friends truck and connected the wire to the top of the battery and it sparked so it should be good right? I looked for anything hanging down behind the motor or anything that may have fallen off the car where it happened originally and did not find anything. Can I just make and run a ground wire to the body of the car? 1 Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 OK so I just retested the choke heater with the car running and not and it does not appear to have power. I tested the connection an it too does not appear to have power I tried chasing the wire and it goes to the Voltage Regulator... How do I test that? It has a fuse in it too and the fuse appears to be fine. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 16, 2013 Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 I don't have schematics for the '74... but usually the choke heater is powered from the choke heater relay. The relay needs a charging signal from the alternator in order to power the choke heater. In other words there is choke heater ONLY when the motor is running. Did you test with the motor running? I'll assume you did... so if there is no power to the choke the fastest/easiest method is to connect the wire from the choke heater to the idle cut solenoid wire on the back of the carb. The idle cut is powered by the ignition switch and is on when the key is... and this will do. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2013 OK so I ran a wire to that and that did nothing. I wanted to see if I could get the heating element hot while off the carb so I stuck a wire to the body of the car and to the body of the electric choke and the power wire to power on the battery and it made the anti dieseling solenoid turn on an off... I could clearly hear it clicking. However the heating element never got hot or even warm for that matter and never saw any glow and had it on there for several minutes. I am not sure what all of this means and I am really bad with electrical. I looked at the wire diagram and it does not show a ground wire from the electric choke to anything, just the power same with the anti-dieseling solenoid. I have one there that I made though just to be sure. Does anyone know where I can find an electric choke for my car (Hitachi carb)? Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Here is the back of the carb with the electric choke and ground and new power.. Here is where I have the ground connected... I made sure to get to bare metal behind there... Here is the new power connection with the solenoid... If I messed anything up PLEASE let me know... It does run and it idles after I rev it a bit to warm it up but it will not idle after I kick it down off idle on cold start still. I did put new plugs in it, would I have to re-adjust the mixture with the new plugs? Should I put the old ones back in? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 Well there is an idle speed screw you could turn up. There should be an idle mixture screw as well. I'm more familiar with the L series carb so I don't know the exact locations of these adjustment screws. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted December 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 OK I'll give it a whirl I know where they are just didn't want to mess with them if I didn't have to... ordered the Weber tonight it should be here tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 17, 2013 Report Share Posted December 17, 2013 You will have the same problem with the Weber if the current choke is not getting power. So fix the power problem before the Weber arrives. When you get the Weber, it will need the idle speed and a/f mixture screws adjusted. Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2014 It was a combination of blown fuse and bad fuse box in the end. Still need a new fuse box but it works for now. The car runs a hell of a lot better with the Weber on it but I suspect I will need a larger radiator in the near future. It still needs to be tuned, I will probably take it to WORKS Motorsports before May and have them put it on the dyno. Their dyno guy is a 260z nut so its probably the best place unless anyone else knows somewhere in the North Bay that will dyno tune a carb on a Datsun..? Thanks for all the help! Quote Link to comment
cj8281 Posted April 17, 2014 Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 The problem with your old carb was probably in the idle circuit, a plugged vent port or crap near the idle mixture screw. Just curious what size your crate motor is, the original '74 B210 motor was the A13, the only year of that size. As far as vacuum lines and all of that, you may be able to find diagrams in repair manuals at a library. I have photocopies of stuff like that that I made years ago. On testing the idle solenoid/anti-desiel solenoid, when connected to power and grounded the needle should retract and when ungrounded or power removed, should immediately extend. A couple of tools you should invest in, a tach and dwell meter, a small set of feeler gauges for adjusting your valves, an ice pick style test light, an inexpensive timing light, a small set of screw drivers and wrenches. The most common size wrenches that you will need are 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19. The 13mm is needed because a lot of American replacement metric bolts have 13mm heads instead of the regular 12mm. You can also use a test light for static timing your engine. 1 Quote Link to comment
B210ratsun Posted May 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 The motor is an A14 with a H72 head that came on it, the previous owner bought it from a Nissan dealership in the South Bay, Santa Clara I think. Quote Link to comment
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